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Quicker cornering..


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I absolutely hate Rocket Rons.

 

I have a theory (only a theory) that tyres with "rows of knobblies" like the Rocket Ron (and a lot of Schwalbe tyres have) are not good. Well they're good but they tend to be quite loose - they tend to move sideways in corners. If you're a balls out rally style rider these tyres are good for you.

 

I prefer tyres with "arrows of knobblies" like the Ritchey Shield, Conti Raceking, Maxxis Ikon (although these are a combo of line and arrow). I find they're more predictable and when the tyres starts to slide you have been warned!

I found those race kings to give absolutely no give. You are either on or off your bike.

 

And thanks for all the advice. Cornering is something we neglect. Loving the 2.25 racing ralphs. Very nice tires!

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I am not into the knobbly layout... for me the grip derived from the knobbly pattern relates more to the intended style of riding and the self cleaning action of the tyre.

 

The arrow knobbly is more for a rider approach turns aggresively, with little lean. We find the tyres generally have low cut knobbly patterns and are more common in hard pack, South African condition. The rubber compounds are generally harder and thus reducing rolling resistance and creating the sketchy feel, with less mechanical grip.

 

Riding Europe and the Uk, most guys ride a deeper nobbly in the straighter pattern layout, this enhances the cleaning pattern of the tread, this are also generally softer compound rubber to allow the knobblies room to move. This adds to rolling resistance but also improves the mechanical grip of the tyre.

 

In the recent past, we have seen a generation of soft compound low knobbly tyres, low TPI counts, these are ultra light weight and grip is extremely good but the longevity of the tyre is poor.

 

So a recipe for a good turning tyre, low volume, soft case, with a soft rubber compound, the tread layout accounts for an estimated 10% of the grip and the depth of the knobbly 25%. Hard pack short knob, loose over hard and soft a longer knob. XCO tyre.

 

A good rolling tyre, high volume, stiffer case, hard rubber compound, short knob. - This XCM tyre, most of us our riding something like that.

 

I have been working on a tyre with TUFO, High Volume , Soft Case, partially protected side wall, short knob, soft, but tough rubber compound. I had the proto-type for 2 weeks and its and amazing, 560g, marathon tyre than has a tendance to over steer, turn sharper than you expect.

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It is better to have your outside foot forward not down

This turns your outside hip towards the corner

Takes practice but will increase your speed thru the corner

Great on switchbacks too

 

That only really works on slow switchbacks and berms. For most other corners getting your full weight on the outside pedal is the only way.

 

http://betterride.net/wp-content/uploads/Nice-get-that-elbow-out-Terry..jpg

 

Lee shows how it's done.

http://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/LeeCornerMartyC071911.jpg

 

The day you make a decision to never touch brakes in a corner again (unless you really, really have to. like if it's very steep or tight) is the day your riding skill will improve immeasurably. The reason is simple: you will learn to brake just enough before the corner, stay low on entry and put your weight on the outside pedal, you will learn to lean the bike, not your body and you will learn to look through the corner. Because when you look through the corner, you turn your head, which turns your shoulders, which turns your hips which turns your.... bike.

 

And then (as Eldron pointed out) try to do it all while keeping arms and legs relaxed to absorb all undulations which is by far the hardest part to master.

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HaHaHa nope im on a 26'' .

 

Sir M so if i understand you correctly i should stay upright and lean the bike and not lean with the bike as i am used to? the inside pedal upright i learnt the hard way.

What the man says. Feels weird in the begining but improves traction.
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So what tires should I get? Slick, you know my riding style.

 

 

great thread .

 

you are hitting the nail on the head .

 

let's be clear that riding technique and tires go hand in hand.

 

what works for one person may not work for the other , it's the fun part about this sport ( try diff tires and see what works for you ) allot like motor racing , each driver has his car setup to his driving technique from tires to pressure act .

 

rocket rons / cross marks and that's me , I'm looking for land .

 

mountain kings I find too aggressive and I over steer .

 

race kings / rithcey WCS I love

 

but recently found that I'm at my fastest at the XCO events and single track on Ikons .

 

all tires are good in a straight line but when you want to rip single track then things change .

 

this above point I'm making shows with a friend of mine , hands down the fastest single track rider I know ( saying allot considering the likes of Greg minaar fall in my friends list ) he does this on rocket rons how is simple , they work for him and his riding technique .

 

Happy practicing guys , find what works for you .

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Lean the bike and not your body.

 

Remember that your weight should always be neutral on the bike. If the bike points nose down you need to be over the back. If the nose points up you need to be over the front.

 

Same with cornering. Lean the bike left and you need to move your weight over to the right in order to stay on the bike. Also drop the pedal down on the outside of the corner to help get more weight down and into the tyres to add grip.

 

Do NOT brake in the corner. Scrub off enough speed before you enter the corner. Braking will cause the wheels to try and pull the bike upright.

 

Practise the above on grass to see how the weight on the bike affects the handling of the bike.

 

solid

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