Capricorn Posted October 27, 2013 Share Seriously though: Don't try to use non-UST tyres as tubeless, they are a bugger to inflate if you don't have a high pressure pump (i.e. the local Caltex) and don't have a strong enough side wall if you go techie. garbage. You need to unconfuse the OP by stating the difference between TLR and fully UST compatible tyres. To encourage you, i have fully UST compatible DH carcasses that have ripped quicker than TLR DH tyres from a competing brand. In fact, the score now is 3 ripped sidewalls for UST DH tyre versus 0 (zero) rips on TLR DH carcasses. NB to the OP: this is not a generalisation, just my experience, and serves to debunk what Carcarias said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Deon) Posted October 27, 2013 Share If you cant go tubeless at once pop some stans in those tubes. The stuff is amazing.If you do use Stans filled tubes, carry a plastic bag with you. Slime filled tubes don't naturally grow in the wild, so it IS amazing how many are picked off bushes 5m from the trail. I get that people don't want the stuff dripping down their back, so carry a bag! I am having a severe case of humour failure with the amount of tubes being pulled off the mountain. No more, please. Bobbo_SA, Capricorn and GoLefty!! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinsnyman Posted October 28, 2013 Share I have tried Ghetto, Stans, wire bead tyres, tubeless ready tyres and proper tubeless tyres - I took best, cheapest combination - and this worked for me: 1. Proper Stans tubeless conversion - R 5002. Front wheel - Proper UST tyre,just for the peace of mind. I have had a front tyre burp and that never ends well! look at Maxxis for good value R 4503. Rear wheel - I am happy to use normal wire/kevlar bead - currently running Rocket Ron and will be replacing with another Rocket Ron when this one is done. Works for me, very happy with this setup. Edited October 28, 2013 by martinsnyman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr X Posted October 28, 2013 Share I would not recommend the tubeless conversion with non-tubeless ready rims. Besides the extra weight you will need to replace the rim-tape about every six months and this money is much better spent on getting proper wheels like Stans or American Classic which will not need rip tape at all and works perfectly with tubeless ready tires and saves some weight too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalem44 Posted October 28, 2013 Share I have done the ghetto tubeless set up on 2 of my bikes and have never had to replace rim tape. I just top up with some Stans every 4 months or so and have had no issues whatsoever. The Stans or Joes conversion kit is merely fiberglass tape (which can be bought in rolls at sportsmans) and a rubber strip with a valve on it. Imho its a waste to buy the conversion kit if you can do it your self with tape and a tube. Great marketing buy Stans and Joes though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kosmonooit Posted October 28, 2013 Share I would not recommend the tubeless conversion with non-tubeless ready rims. Besides the extra weight you will need to replace the rim-tape about every six months and this money is much better spent on getting proper wheels like Stans or American Classic which will not need rip tape at all and works perfectly with tubeless ready tires and saves some weight too. Ja well .... You still need to tape Stan's ZTR rims they have spoke holes. Nothing wrong with that system, provided its done properly. And one should do annual maintenance: replace the sealant at least, but I re-tape my rims after truing them as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted October 28, 2013 Share I would not recommend the tubeless conversion with non-tubeless ready rims. Besides the extra weight you will need to replace the rim-tape about every six months and this money is much better spent on getting proper wheels like Stans or American Classic which will not need rip tape at all and works perfectly with tubeless ready tires and saves some weight too. I just shake my head and say OK ........ niterider, dirtrider, Cuppa Bru and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kosmonooit Posted October 28, 2013 Share I just shake my head and say OK ........ Eggspurts abound! NotSoBigBen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Scorcho Posted October 28, 2013 Share Can't really afford to buy new wheels now, and I need this done asap. I'll definitely look at upgrading the wheelset in time though, but I'm set on the conversion for now. LBS 1 has offered conversion + Maxxis tyres at ~R1500. LBS 2 has offered conversion + Maxxis tyres at ~R1800. Maxxis any good? Which is the relatively fast-rolling option with decent grip, like a X-King equivalent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niterider Posted October 28, 2013 Share I would not recommend the tubeless conversion with non-tubeless ready rims. Besides the extra weight you will need to replace the rim-tape about every six months and this money is much better spent on getting proper wheels like Stans or American Classic which will not need rip tape at all and works perfectly with tubeless ready tires and saves some weight too. More misinformation. Why exactly would you need to replace the rim tape? And what exactly is your definition of a "tubeless ready" rim anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted October 28, 2013 Share There are tubeless ready (TLR) tyres and UST tyres and the same for rims. Some TLR's are better than others. some rims work better than other's too, ie inflate easily with a standard pump and hold the tyre on the rim better. UST rims and tyres in combination provide the best rim /tyre seal thanks to the bead groove design. Riding style also plays a big roll, ie how hard you make teh tyre work in corners etc. My experience is that stiffer sidewalls and higher pressures are needed to keep non UST tyres on non UST rims. That said, some TLR tyres are simply better at rim retention and these are generally the heavier stiffer sidewall tyres like a WTB Bronson and Hans Dampf. In the AM tyre arena, there are some wannabe tyres like Spaz Purgatory which have thinnish sidewalls and almost too much grip for my converted rims - ie the grip on the ground exceeds the rim bead grip and they burp. They also bleed sealant through the sidewalls. Ultralight versions of the Nobby Nic are next to useless on my DT E540 rims rims. Basically, if you want security and grip on a TLR set up, you are usually going to need to go heavier and stronger, depending on the rim tyre combo, and your riding style. Its not all bad though because a UST rim and tyre combo is also not that light as the tyres are stronger and thicker than some TLR tyres. As far as inflation is concerned, if you have the right rim strip/tyre combo on a TLR set up, it should pump up as easily as a UST rim/tyre combo. the big factor seems to be how tightly the uninflated tyre seats in the middle of the rim before inflation. If thats tightish the butyl beads seem to trap the air well and they pop into the groove easily. in fact my TLR DT's pump up easier than XT UST rims with some UST tyres... Experimentation is the name of the game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinsnyman Posted October 28, 2013 Share I would not recommend the tubeless conversion with non-tubeless ready rims. Besides the extra weight you will need to replace the rim-tape about every six months and this money is much better spent on getting proper wheels like Stans or American Classic which will not need rip tape at all and works perfectly with tubeless ready tires and saves some weight too.Pull up your pants and give your mouth a chance to say something Capricorn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr X Posted October 28, 2013 Share This is why I love the hub, people misunderstanding and then being rude. Ok I did use the incorrect term "rim tape" instead of "rim strip". I wrongly assumed people will understand what I mean. The correct term is rim strip, not rim tape. Look closely at this pic: http://www.notubes.com/Assets/ProductImages/Tubeless_Kit2.jpg See those 2 black things with the valves on. These are rim strips and only needed for rims which are not tubeless ready. These need to be replaced every 6 months or so. It adds weight and cost. Edited October 28, 2013 by Mr X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr X Posted October 28, 2013 Share More misinformation. Why exactly would you need to replace the rim tape? And what exactly is your definition of a "tubeless ready" rim anyway? My definition of a tubeless ready rim is a rim that does not need the rim strips in order to work tubeless. Edited October 28, 2013 by Mr X GoLefty!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r0adrunner Posted October 28, 2013 Share Save yourself some money and buy a bottle of Stans and just insert it yourself. A bottle cost as much as a topup at most LBS'. I screw off the top of the valve and then use a big syringe with tubing to put in more stans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinsnyman Posted October 28, 2013 Share My definition of a tubeless ready rim is a rim that does not need the rim strips in order to work tubeless.Not even close.That is a tubeless rim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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