Multigrade engine oil as chain lube?

[TK-Sp3cialiSt]

From my understanding, you need to leave the chain in the motor oil for a longer period of time for it to work properly as it will(and i use this term loosely) "bond" or soak ibto the chain material better that way

[Cassie]

http://www.squirtlub...News2014-01.pdf

 

2.3Mb Too big to attach.

 

This was an intersting article to ead!!

 

HOWEVER, what I still need to get my mind around is this...

 

for any wax...let's assume it gets to the inner part of the chain rollers (i.e.the ONLY place where lube is needed...all else isa total waste) by wahatever means (carried via Squirt's water based solvent ; or flowed in there when the hot wax tech was used...).

 

NOW - this is where Johann Bormann had made a remark - wax, once displaced...cannot flow back to its original position 9such as when the pressure is applied insider chain roller)...so in other words - once a wax is displaced (unlike any oil) it does not return to is original spot...

 

So, my comment on this article would be to alos consider logevity of chains under the same lube conditions...yes, Squirt will be great as thes test has shown....BUT how long will thta hain last , compared to the oil lubes (which flows back to the rollers where it is actually needed?)

 

the article mention 400 -500 miles for chain life...thta is pretty short!

 

If I'm going to replace my chain wevery 400 - 500 miles...I'll actually run it withlut any lube whatsoever - to achieve the BEST wattage - better than any of the tests done inthe article.

 

So, finally - lubes either keep you chain quiet AND reduces friction/wear and improve the lifetime of your chain...wax cannot do that?

 

wax on the other hand

[DubbelBuys]

I use SAE 40.

 

JB said if your oil makes little spots (on the rim) it's too thin & when it makes 'threads' it's too thick. (Obvioisly)

[TALUS]

My impression of Shimano Lube (got a few samples) was that it spins of on to my roadbike's frame. Does that mean it is too "thin"? Why do they then even sell it? Real question not being clever - I know nothing about this.

[GaryvdM]

the article mention 400 -500 miles for chain life...thta is pretty short!

 

They are talking about how long an application lasts, not how long the chain lasts.

 

I use a melted wax + 80w 90 EP oil mix. I can do 1000km dry road use between lubes (all though I generally only do about 500km between lubes, less if riding in the wet or doing races.) My current chain has over 8000kms on it. I measured the wear last night, and it's less than 1/16" (using the measuring method from here: http://sheldonbrown....hains.html#wear)

Edited May 22, 2014 by GaryvdM

[GoLefty!!]

My impression of Shimano Lube (got a few samples) was that it spins of on to my roadbike's frame. Does that mean it is too "thin"? Why do they then even sell it? Real question not being clever - I know nothing about this.

 

It means you have applied to much lube.

[GaryvdM]

If I'm going to replace my chain wevery 400 - 500 miles...I'll actually run it withlut any lube whatsoever - to achieve the BEST wattage - better than any of the tests done inthe article.

 

New chains come with a very good lube applied, so may be you are referring to running the chain with said lube, but it that case, this is not without lube.

 

But if you clean that lube off, the the chain will be much less efficient. Friction-facts did a test on this: http://www.friction-.../dry-chain-test Here is a quote from that test:

 

The 6 water-bathed chains were then ultrasonically cleaned in two baths of lacquer thinner. The average efficiency of the chains after the lacquer thinner baths was 22.65 watts. This is an increase of 16.22 watts from the clean and lubed state.

 

So, no, running a chain without lube is not more efficient.

Edited May 22, 2014 by GaryvdM

[GaryvdM]

P.s. Lots of other tests from Friction-facts: http://www.friction-facts.com/test-results/individual-reports. You can get a report package which is cheaper: http://www.friction-facts.com/test-results/report-packages/report-package

 

IMO worth the money if you are interested in the topic.

[GoLefty!!]

Indeed the wax based lube used for coating the chains at the factory is a high grade chain lube as used for motorcycles. Its just applied via an automatic applicator and excess is wiped off before the chain is packed , sealed and boxed.

Wipe off the excess, fit it and go ride.

[igknot]

I picked up a pamplhet from bearing man the other day.

 

It is for a chain wax 'GO'

 

Has anyone seen used or drank this. is it any good. It seems to be for industrial applications below 60 degrees celsius.

 

Not suitable for chainsaw chains

[GaryvdM]

Getting setup to do melted wax is a bit of a schlep. If you want to try out melted wax before making this investment, bring your chain round to my house and I will do it for you. PM me if you would like to take me up on this.

Edited May 22, 2014 by GaryvdM

[Mojoman]

I picked up a pamplhet from bearing man the other day.

 

It is for a chain wax 'GO'

 

Has anyone seen used or drank this. is it any good. It seems to be for industrial applications below 60 degrees celsius.

 

Not suitable for chainsaw chains

I have used a couple of bottles, its a good buy over Squirt, about R150 for 500ml compared to Squirts little bottle at about R100. But it still has the same wax build up as Squirt.

[GaryvdM]

The ultimate in chain cleaning and lubrication: http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

[Skylark]

Everybody mentions you only need lube inside the rollers, wipe off excess etc, don't you technically want some lube at least on the teeth of the cogs/chainrings to easy the friction and wear there between them and the face of the rollers?

[Skylark]

dbl post

Edited May 22, 2014 by Skylark

[Vangar]

The ultimate in chain cleaning and lubrication: http://sheldonbrown....chainclean.html

 

My word.....then I'd rather budget for a new chain every month. Seriously too much time on his hands!

Edited May 22, 2014 by Vangar