Stumpjumper FSR vs PYGA oneten

[Johny Bravo]

Johnny.

 

Out of interest, what is it really about the spesh that you really like and that makes you feel it set's it apart from the rest?

I notice a lot of people hate Spez, because they are the BIG guys, or they are a marketing company not a bicycle company. I have heard them all, fact is they are innovators, no one can argue that, the new swat technology, the brain system etc.

 

What that means to me, as the end user, their bikes just feel more special to me than the rest, I make a point of test riding loads of bikes, I go to demo days, my favourite obviously are the Specialized test the best days. Where I can ride s-works machines and bikes that us mortals cant afford. When buying a new bike I consider price, looks are important, spec level and mostly back up service. I have never had a issue with any of my bikes luckily, but a mate of mine had frame issues and it was replaced straight away. No issues. I am sure other manufacturers also offer great service, but then there are some horror stories on the hub about Scott etc.

 

I dont own a Stumpjumper fsr, I have a camber, and a stumpy hardtail, butt I have ridden the stumpy fsr on the test days in Jonkershoek. It is a machine, and knowing the service I receive from my local dealer, aswell as the service my friends get in Stellenbosch from Specialized Bmt, and Dawels lives in Stellenbosch, how can I not recommend the Stumpy. That would be foolish of me.

Edited March 19, 2014 by Johny Bravo

[Dawels]

 

I bought me the 2014 Stumpjumper Alu FSR Comp for R 27k at Cyclefunatics and upgraded the wheels to ZTR Arch Ex with Hope Evo 2 hubs (CWC for R 5500.00)

 

130mm Travel front and Rear Shocks. Its a damn awesome bike

 

For R 35k take the Alu and get the new Wheels. you won't be dissapointed

 

TBone7 WP, did you keep the original parts or 'trade' them in for the new rims etc?

[LazyTrailRider]

I think he means the Fox Evolution forks.

 

Yep, they:

• Have very little small-bump sensitivity. I'm guessing due to the air spring configuration (it has a negative coil spring AFAIK, or none at all), it sits pretty much at the very top of its travel in default, compared to most RS forks which have equalised (Solo air) or adjustable (Dual air) negative air chambers which cause the fork to be slightly compressed by default, with negative air pressure helping to "push" into that first bit of travel.
  
• Have terrible compression damping. Because of the first point, you need to run them at lower pressure than you ideally should in an attempt to get small-bump compliance, but because the compression damping is virtually non-existent in "Descend" mode on CTD, you end up with a fork which dives overly.
  
• The seals aren't great, so after 3 hours of dusty riding you often end up with a squeaky, stictiony (I just made this word up) feeling front end unless you apply a good dose of wet lube.
  

Look, only a small percentage of riders will notice or care. If you don't really hammer stuff the first two points are of the "huh?" variety, which is why many many bikes out there run Evolution Series forks without any complaints surfacing. Once you really step on the gas however and nail your bike through a rock garden and bounce into a berm, you start getting annoyed.

Edited March 19, 2014 by Martin Hattingh

[droo]

Please elaborate further? I've got a Evo, and so far I've not had any issues.

 

Put a FIT or an OB RL damper in there and you'll see what I mean.

 

You've got the 2014 EVO, which is miles ahead of the plastic single stage orifice rebound damper in the 2013. The FIT and OB RLC have got shimmed high speed valves and an orifice valve at low speed, which make for far more controlled damping further into the travel. The older EVOs are also underdamped on the compression stroke so you'll blow through way more travel than you should on braking and cornering. Again, the 2014 is apparently an improvement, but we'll see.

 

Lend me your bike for a weekend and I'll let you know...

Edited March 19, 2014 by droo

[LazyTrailRider]

The FIT and OB RLC have got shimmed high speed valves and an orifice valve at low speed, which make for far more controlled damping further into the travel.

 

Oh yes, I forgot to mention the rebound side being wild (2013 Evo of course). You're referring to rebound with these facts?

[TBone7 WP]

TBone7 WP, did you keep the original parts or 'trade' them in for the new rims etc?

 

Hi Dawels

 

I still have the original parts. I am selling the old wheelset now. The bike is decently specked. X9 Rear and X7 front and shifters. Custom Formula C1 Brakes. I will be upgrading my Shifters in time. Bike weighs 12,6kg at the moments which is great for the type of bike and a Dual Alu.

 

I purchased the wheels at a different cycle shop. Chris Willemse Cycles as the sell them for R5500 with Hope Evo 2 Hubs which is a bargain.

[LazyTrailRider]

I bought me the 2014 Stumpjumper Alu FSR Comp for R 27k at Cyclefunatics and upgraded the wheels to ZTR Arch Ex with Hope Evo 2 hubs (CWC for R 5500.00)

 

130mm Travel front and Rear Shocks. Its a damn awesome bike

 

For R 35k take the Alu and get the new Wheels. you won't be dissapointed

 

Nice looking ride. At some point in future you can drop the dual rings and go narrow-wide, the simplicity rocks!

[droo]

Oh yes, I forgot to mention the rebound side being wild (2013 Evo of course). You're referring to rebound with these facts?

 

Yep, that's the one. It's plastic and has no shims, and an o-ring instead of a glide ring. On a fork that retails for close to 7k I'd be a bit bleak if I opened mine and found that.

 

Lowest bidder definitely won that war.

[canadonis]

Dawels if u look at new components 9k for full xt gruppo, 5500 for arch ex wheels, 5700 for fork 2k for seat, stems and bars. 22k for all new top end components, I'm sure u can neg a good deal for pyga frame which will bring yo within 40k budget.

 

Stumpy if you spec similarly will not cost less despite. Initial lower cost.

[Skylark]

 

Put a FIT or an OB RL damper in there and you'll see what I mean.

 

You've got the 2014 EVO, which is miles ahead of the plastic single stage orifice rebound damper in the 2013. The FIT and OB RLC have got shimmed high speed valves and an orifice valve at low speed, which make for far more controlled damping further into the travel. The older EVOs are also underdamped on the compression stroke so you'll blow through way more travel than you should on braking and cornering. Again, the 2014 is apparently an improvement, but we'll see.

 

Lend me your bike for a weekend and I'll let you know...

 

I've been reading up about this whole cartridge business and many forks in a brands range are very similar/cartridges interchangeable, a better cartridge can revolutionize your fork especially the amount you can tweak it to suit your weight and riding type/style or just get the fork working to the best of its ability.

 

If you have one of these budget cartridges in your fork I'd highly suggest asking Droo if he can upgrade the cartridge, may be all the fork needs to produce the goods.

[Dawels]

Engineering week is a bitch....

 

So looks like Ill be going for the stumpjumper as the pyga frame has gone up to 20k!

 

I can get the standard stumpy for 27k. What extra's are worth looking at to make up the 35k?

 

Also flat pedal shoes and proper helmets??

[niterider]

Engineering week is a bitch....

 

So looks like Ill be going for the stumpjumper as the pyga frame has gone up to 20k!

 

I can get the standard stumpy for 27k. What extra's are worth looking at to make up the 35k?

 

Also flat pedal shoes and proper helmets??

 

Get them to throw in the dropper post and tubeless conversion for nothing. Apart from that there's nothing that would require an immediate upgrade. Then of course you want shoes, helmet, some baggy shorts, gloves, a hydration pack, a multitool, some spare brake pads, a small pump to fit in your pack, a big pump for the garage at home. Save your leftover money to replace whatever you break or wear out first on your bike. After riding it for a while you'll also figure where you might want to spend any upgrade money.

[NicoBoshoff]

Dropper post no doubt and maybe a shorter stem. The stem should be free and I agree the tubeless conversion would be a nice gesture, but a free dropper post? No chance and I'd tell you to get lost.

[Johny Bravo]

Get them to throw in the dropper post and tubeless conversion for nothing. Apart from that there's nothing that would require an immediate upgrade. Then of course you want shoes, helmet, some baggy shorts, gloves, a hydration pack, a multitool, some spare brake pads, a small pump to fit in your pack, a big pump for the garage at home. Save your leftover money to replace whatever you break or wear out first on your bike. After riding it for a while you'll also figure where you might want to spend any upgrade money.

Very good advice. I think you covered most of it. Maybe a shock pump as it will have a air shock.

[niterider]

Dropper post no doubt and maybe a shorter stem. The stem should be free and I agree the tubeless conversion would be a nice gesture, but a free dropper post? No chance and I'd tell you to get lost.

 

That's what I got when I bought my stumpy - dropper and a tubeless conversion. You need to negotiate harder

[Hairy]

......Dammed. ...poor lbs guys kids never got food to eat the next few days with the way you lot bargain