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Posted

Hi guys,

 

I see a few short discussions on this in my searches here. I'm struggling to decide between which method to use - tape or cut tubes.

 

I have 29's and so expect if I go the tube route to use 24" tubes.

 

I see there is some talk of what type of tape to use and it seems that guys recommend "Gorilla tape" or "gaffer tape, has anyone used other types of tape and has anyone tried the self vulcanising silicon type tape at all?

 

Are these methods as safe as a Stans kit or as safe as the UST rims option?

 

Also, I have Scwalbe Rocket Rons and DT Swiss rims (does "48SD" ring a bell at all?), will these work nicely - any experience with them? I see they are very very light tyres. What is a good tyre choice for KZN trails etc, probably a fair bit of tar for training too? Are tubeless conversions with non UST tyres OK/safe enough and should I be concerned about safety - I'm not too risk averse, just wanting to see what peoples experiences are.

Should I wait untill the current tyres are old and then do a conversion with a new set? Sorry, new to the sport and keen to get stuck in but still finding my way around different components and things that okes do?

 

Thanks for any advice that can be offered.

Posted (edited)

Gone ghetto on my sled:

DT Swiss EX 1750 rims with non-UST Maxxis Minions DH wire rim....battled a bit to get the final bit onto the rim but once done, no issues. There are plenty of youtube vids about, check them out.

Gorilla tape on rim to seal spoke holes (two wraps and you can buy rolls already cut to the perfect width...$$$$ but worth it). Used a 20" tube on the 26"rim, split it down the centre and folded back over the rim...make sure you get all the talcum powder out cause you don't want it to interfere with Stans. Once you mounted tyre almost complete, use a little soapy water on the split tube edge to help lever the final bit of the tyre onto the rim. This is the most difficult stage as you must not pinch the split ghetto tube with your tyre lever against the rim....

Add Stans, close up carefully, roll the wheel around about twice on the ground to spread the tyre across the rim as best possible (some guys use a belt of sorts for this part to squeeze the tyre)....add air...NO BOMB.....use a garage compressor unless your name's Arnie and you got a super wide bore footpump! Give it a good blast and go high with the pressure to seat the tyre.

Depending on the tyre, there may be some initial sweating of Stans if the tyre is non-UST but it will soon stop. Trim excess tube close to rim with blade...careful...don't cut yourself or the tyre!

Shake tyre all round to spread the Stans, re-fit to bike and wayhey!

Safety - well you intend hurling yourself down a steep rocky, dirt track on a two wheeled machine made of welded (or glued if carbon) pipes on narrow inflated rubber rings....no comment!

Edited by capediver
Posted (edited)

Thanks guys.

 

Fanievb - what you're saying about non-tubeless tyres makes me think I'll stick with the current tyres for now with tubes and change when I change tyres - no problem - not so keen to wait but will do so. Is that "duct tape" the business then - I see some people saying it isn't as good.

 

Capediver - so you use tape and a tube then - i.e. at the same time it seems, I suppose the tube lasts a bit longer? Re. safety - I'm looking for something reasonable, I realise that inherently the sport has risks of course (I read the label on the box :w00t: ). Is Stans the only recommended lube then?

 

Thanks again guys. Anyone else care to comment re. tyres selection (what I currently have and going forward)?

Edited by Dorris_benzenout
Posted

Don't use old tyres .

Don't worry about getting tubeless tires to much , but tubeless tires are a lot easier to work with .

Insulation tape , been working for many years on my setups

If you gonna use the Tube method you only need a thin strip of tube to cover the spokes , does not have to go all the way up to the rim of the wheel .

Posted

Gorilla tape inside the rim to seal the spoke and nipple holes (depends on the type of rim), but it's a case of belts and braces, the split tube and the tape both seal against the rim.

Stans is not lube, its sealant...for lube to get the last of the tyre rim seated, use a little soapy water....just enough to make it easier for the final bit of tyre to flip onto the rim without damaging the ghettoed tube.

Posted

When I do ghetto tjoopless I like using the smaller size tube that you cut open method for rimstrips. Never had any problems or failures.

 

 

http://www.mtbtechniques.co.uk/images/GhettoCut.GIF

 

http://faqload.com/gfx/pubs/1288324893_r0.jpg

 

 

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AlkZcdbMxWQ/T3lUCUV9XkI/AAAAAAAAAGc/ct61iZQvtcU/s320/IMG_1472.jpg

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x163/dedmann3/d858768e.jpg

Posted

When I do ghetto tjoopless I like using the smaller size tube that you cut open method for rimstrips. Never had any problems or failures.

 

 

This method works fine. The only problem I have with it is you have to be careful putting the tyre back on if you want to clean the tyre out or top up the slime. It can be tricky to keep a 'lip' sticking out between the rim and the tyre when you fit the tyre.

Posted

This method works fine. The only problem I have with it is you have to be careful putting the tyre back on if you want to clean the tyre out or top up the slime. It can be tricky to keep a 'lip' sticking out between the rim and the tyre when you fit the tyre.

 

 

I just pop in a new "strip".

Posted

This method works fine. The only problem I have with it is you have to be careful putting the tyre back on if you want to clean the tyre out or top up the slime. It can be tricky to keep a 'lip' sticking out between the rim and the tyre when you fit the tyre.

I worked three years in Madagascar and modern cycling spares are scarce. I used the ghetto method throughout because the one thing available aplenty was tubes. Never had punctures and the locals used to stare at me ploughing through scrub and bushes without getting flats. Having said that, there is one thing to consider. Gorilla tape (insulation, vulcanizing, Stans) is much easier to work with. When done right you can re-seat the tire with a hand pump. No need for compressors or other large air pressure goodies. Although the Ghetto method remains the cheapest it is a real bastard to work with.

Both methods is better than the old conventional tubes, but tubeless tires do contribute to a worry free ride.

Posted

I think that the nicest thing about the small tube method is that you don't have to worry too much about disturbing the seal around the tubeless valve when topping up the air. I've had two flats that wouldn't seal from this.

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