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Posted

You can actually use a quich release skewer with some spacers to press the bearings in. Have used this method before and it works quite well.

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Posted

1. How did you get to put more grease in the bearing, it should be a sealed unit? Too much grease on the pawls?

 

2. Bearings need to be pressed into place. Warm the hub up in the sun or use a hair dryer carefully and place the bearing in a plastic bag in the freezer for an hour. Use a correctly sized spacer, sockets work well enough and a G clamp with two blocks of wood and tighten the clamp to seat the bearing. Never take a hammer to a bearing, you will damage the bearing race.

sorry i should have been more specific, i put too much grease between the freehub body and the hub on the powels

Posted (edited)

Looks like I put too much grease in, like mild hydraulic locking, especially in the end caps like the non-drive side one with the seal, I rammed them full of grease, the wheels spun but not freely. Opened up as many bearing seals as I could get access too without knocking them out and cleaned out as much grease as possible and then put in some Fox float fluid equivalent(synthetic 90W gear oil, trying something a bit like the Chris King hub fluid) incl in the freehub ratchets, now its much better. :)

Edited by Skylark
Posted

1. How did you get to put more grease in the bearing, it should be a sealed unit? Too much grease on the pawls?

 

2. Bearings need to be pressed into place. Warm the hub up in the sun or use a hair dryer carefully and place the bearing in a plastic bag in the freezer for an hour. Use a correctly sized spacer, sockets work well enough and a G clamp with two blocks of wood and tighten the clamp to seat the bearing. Never take a hammer to a bearing, you will damage the bearing race.

Using a hairdryer to get a headset into a carbon frame and to get a BB loosened or fastened works the best .Almost no force needed if you heat the outer part first

Posted

Looks like I put too much grease in, like mild hydraulic locking, especially in the end caps like the non-drive side one with the seal, I rammed them full of grease, the wheels spun but not freely. Opened up as many bearing seals as I could get access too without knocking them out and cleaned out as much grease as possible and then put in some Fox float fluid equivalent(synthetic 90W gear oil, trying something a bit like the Chris King hub fluid) incl in the freehub ratchets, now its much better. :)

You don't need visible surface grease anywhere except on the freehub pawls - there is a good youtube video on rebuilding the rear hub that shows where and how much grease to apply (and which way round to put the labarinth seal) - I always fill the bearings under the seals with grease - even if it feels a little slower initially, they do settle down and spin after a few km, and they resist water intrusion better, which only really matters on a multi day even when maintenance opportunities are limited.

Posted
Would using 2 thick washers and some threaded rod pull them in squarely/do the job?

Use the old bearing or a socket that fits to the outer race as a drift.....stiffer than washers. The threaded rod used to pull must be centralised to reduce risk of pulling the new bearing in skew. Centralise by wrapping with tape so it fits snugly .

Posted

Using a hairdryer to get a headset into a carbon frame and to get a BB loosened or fastened works the best .Almost no force needed if you heat the outer part first

An additional trick is to put the bearing in the freezer for as long as possible and then warm up the housing.. sometimes the bearing will just drop in, and certainly with a leeetle tap it will be home

Posted

I replaced the bearings in my hope pro2 hubs front and back, front spins freely, ie give it a good spin and it carries on spinning for a long time, the back hub even with the chain off(so no drag from the freehub ratchets) does not spin very freely, it is quite hard to turn the axle with my fingers with the wheel out. I did get carried away filling the bearings with grease, I noticed that added quite a lot of resistance.

 

Is this normal for a Hope rear hub or have I got something wrong?

 

One simple question, you replaced with new bearings I assume ?

Then why still pack it with grease ?

Posted (edited)

Freezer trick should work but as soon as you take that bearing out the freezer moisture from the air is going to condense on it and you will now have water in your pressfit housing. Water steel and alu/carbon in contact with each other is a recipe for corrosion. Rust takes up more space than the steel it is made from -you can work out the consequences. In a dry climate the freezer trick may be OK but here in KZN I rather use grease and careful press technique

Edited by JXV
Posted

Freezer trick should work but as soon as you take that bearing out the freezer moisture from the air is going to condense on it and you will now have water in your pressfit housing. Water steel and alu/carbon in contact with each other is a recipe for corrosion. Rust takes up more space than the steel it is made from -you can work out the consequences. In a dry climate the freezer trick probably ok but here in KZN I rather use grease and careful press technique

 

Worst advice ever.

Posted

Why you disagree Wyatt? What I wrote has always worked for me

 

I agree with you in that the freezer idea brings moisture across.

I agree fully with you.

I disagree putting bearings in a freezer.

Rather get the proper tools or make yourself the proper tools.

 

I have always believed in doing the right thing right.

Posted

 

One simple question, you replaced with new bearings I assume ?

Then why still pack it with grease ?

 

You ever looked at how much factory grease new bearings are typically packed with?

 

Apparently can be quite an issue with pivot bearings on some brand new frames and even heard it in relation to new hope wheel hub bearings, so little factory grease in them(as in almost nothing) if something is not done to remedy that(pack them with sufficient grease) the bearing fails prematurely.

 

Posted

You ever looked at how much factory grease new bearings are typically packed with?

 

Apparently can be quite an issue with pivot bearings on some brand new frames and even heard it in relation to new hope wheel hub bearings, so little factory grease in them(as in almost nothing) if something is not done to remedy that(pack them with sufficient grease) the bearing fails prematurely.

How? if the grease you pack will never enter the bearing since its sealed.

Posted

You ever looked at how much factory grease new bearings are typically packed with?

 

Apparently can be quite an issue with pivot bearings on some brand new frames and even heard it in relation to new hope wheel hub bearings, so little factory grease in them(as in almost nothing) if something is not done to remedy that(pack them with sufficient grease) the bearing fails prematurely.

 

The more grease you pack, the quicker that bearing will fail in a pool of dirt.

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