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Fork loose in headtube


TrackGuy

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Posted

So, I got my bike back from the LBS and notice something was a little bit different. My fork seems to loose, like it is moving around in the headtube, not up and down but backwards and forwards. I tried to push up the shot and then to tighten the stem again, didn't work.

I am going to attached a image to try and convey how the fork is moving around in the tube. If you might the solution please do share it with me.

So note that the fork is not moving up and down, but it's like wiggling in the tube from front back. When I hold down the front brake the entire bike moves forwards and backwards, it's not solid.

Please check the image, don't know if this might help with seeing how the fork is moving around in there.

Thanks guys
(The reason why I haven't taken it back to the shop is because I got it back today, and it's always good to learn these things yourself.)

post-49434-0-79714800-1415219056_thumb.jpg

post-49434-0-31048800-1415219059_thumb.jpg

Posted

Just to get this straight, I need to loosen the stem bolts first, and then tighten the top cap screw. How tight should I make the top cap screw?

Reasonably tight.... But not over tight.. once u "nip" it; try feel if the bars and forks would still be able to to turn/rotate freely... then tighten the stem bolts. ..
Posted

Just to get this straight, I need to loosen the stem bolts first, and then tighten the top cap screw. How tight should I make the top cap screw?

double post
Posted

From my lesson learnt.

The bright sparks who machined out the head tube for the steer tube bearings were over zealous and machined a second off centre portion out. This meant the bearing would never seat properly (press fit) in the cup. Was completely loose. Manufacturer replaced frame on warranty so that was great, but the original LBS were too lazy to actually look for the problem  i reported. Changed LBS, found problem and bike fixed.

:thumbup:

Posted

I had a situation once where I found the headset kept coming loose. Eventually found that there weren't enough spacers fitted and the top cap was bottoming out on the fork so in essence no matter how tight I made it, it never tightened the headset properly. As my bars where already low I had to just cut the fork a little bit shorter. Problem solved.

Posted

NRS182, on 06 Nov 2014 - 07:28 AM, said:

 

I had a situation once where I found the headset kept coming loose. Eventually found that there weren't enough spacers fitted and the top cap was bottoming out on the fork so in essence no matter how tight I made it, it never tightened the headset properly. As my bars where already low I had to just cut the fork a little bit shorter. Problem solved.

 

 

Could also have knocked this guy a little deeper into the streerer

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Posted

another hi-jack

 

my road bike and older MTB both have the old style headsets with small bearings.  I always used to set these up with a bit of play as the OP described.  My new bike has a tapered headset with much larger bearings.  This came from the LBS with absolutely no play.

 

Is there a difference in how one is supposed to setup the tapered headset vs the older models?  Are there perhaps recommended torque settings for this, or is it a more of a gut feel for experienced okes?

Posted

 

 

Could also have knocked this guy a little deeper into the streerer

 

That's going to do nothing if the steerer's too long for the spacers...

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