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New Chain - why sudden chain suck? (MTB)


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Posted

You should ideally replace the chain and cassette at the same time.

A very expensive yet effective exercise. Yet worth while in the long run, as your chain and cassette will age together.

Got money to burn? I replace chains as they near the wear limits and normally get through 2 or 3 chains before the cassette and by then typically also the front rings are toast, on the last chain I ride it till I get chainsuck or chain slipping and then the lot goes in the bin.

 

From my experience worn front rings gives chainsuck and worn cassette cogs gives chain slip?

Also noticed if you put a new chain on a drive train that is just past wear limits after a few rides the chain wears in and then any slipping/chainsuck goes away.

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Posted

Got money to burn? I replace chains as they near the wear limits and normally get through 2 or 3 chains before the cassette and by then typically also the front rings are toast, on the last chain I ride it till I get chainsuck or chain slipping and then the lot goes in the bin.

 

From my experience worn front rings gives chainsuck and worn cassette cogs gives chain slip?

Also noticed if you put a new chain on a drive train that is just past wear limits after a few rides the chain wears in and then any slipping/chainsuck goes away.

Money to burn, no...cry a lot in the shower because of cycle spending, yes!

Fair enough, I replace my chain and cassette every 1-2 years. Maybe I need to ride harder :P 

Posted

sometimes chain suck is because your chain sucks... seriously I don't buy cheap chains or rather chains without good review etc...

 

We recently had problems with shifting on an 9sp XTR kitted bike... turned out to be a SRAM 9sp chain. We changed to a new XTR chain and the problems went away.

 

If you have a good chain that you have not had issues with before then perhaps you need a clean on the cassette and chainrings (especially in between as gunk can pile up there) and if you still have issues then you got worn parts.

 

I fitted a new KMC X10sl chain yesterday and used it as it came from the box. No issues. shifting was super smooth and super quiet.

 

ehrrm...

A chain is a chain is a chain.

Some are polished silver and very $$$. some have hollow pins and are even more $$$$.

Some have coloured links and are somewhat $$.

others alternate polished with dull grey and are cheap.

The cheaper ones are all dull grey

some have SRAM etched on them, some HG, some KMC.

Some are single speed specific and quite heavy.

They all do the same thing.

 

If you think a good chain is an expensive chain, well at best you have saved 5-10g of weight in having weaker lighter hollow pins.

Posted

You should ideally replace the chain and cassette at the same time. 

A very expensive yet effective exercise. Yet worth while in the long run, as your chain and cassette will age together. 

Not really necessary if you keep an eye on the wear of your chain. The cassette can last quite some time. At R1000 for a Sram 1050, this strategy is really only for Nkandla

Posted

Not really necessary if you keep an eye on the wear of your chain. The cassette can last quite some time. At R1000 for a Sram 1050, this strategy is really only for Nkandla

Jakob van Nkandla on a bicycle....?

 

You just spoilt my breakfast.    ;)

Posted

ehrrm...

A chain is a chain is a chain.

Some are polished silver and very $$$. some have hollow pins and are even more $$$$.

Some have coloured links and are somewhat $$.

others alternate polished with dull grey and are cheap.

The cheaper ones are all dull grey

some have SRAM etched on them, some HG, some KMC.

Some are single speed specific and quite heavy.

They all do the same thing.

 

If you think a good chain is an expensive chain, well at best you have saved 5-10g of weight in having weaker lighter hollow pins.

 

I think I was not really being clear with what I was trying to say.

 

1. From my experience the particular 9sp SRAM chain we used was just not working as crisply as it should and was more noisy than the Deore 9sp it replaced - FACT

- we could have changed it for a new Deore chain and then it could have worked (possibly)

-  it did not have to be an XTR but that's what we had. (BTW the chainrings and cassette was new)

2. There are very expensive chains that are also crap and some cheap ones which are great - no argument there I said merely you got to use what works and what works for me is the XT, XTR or KMC X10 chains - whether they are R100 or R600 or $1 or $100 - the price was not the point.

 

And just so we are clear - the SRAM chain that was crap was one of their most expensive chains on a PG990 cassette - maybe a dud chain?

 

The point is that there is also different chains in terms of the physical aspects of it but if the other components are new (or newish) as was said then why would the chain make a difference? Purely from my experience the chain model/make/whatever made a difference.

 

I also asked if the chain was the same brand and model used before without trouble - point being that if that was the case the chain was maybe not the culprit of the trouble and further investigation would be required which would probably resulted in the chainrings or cassette being worn.

 

Hope he finds a solution to the problem though as the derailleur jamming doesn't really sound too good... derailler wheels worn maybe? when it jams is the chain coming off the derailleur wheels? Is the chain wrapping around the cassette? Is the chain jamming at the front chainrings?

 

Good luck finding the problem.

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