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Tokai - best way down Vasbyt from the jeep track


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Posted

Gee guys, thanks a mil for the tips, I have some improving to do by the look of those videos. Okay, weight back, heels down and not too much or little dampening on my back shock?

 

Do yourself a favour, if you do not have a dropper post, lower your seat post to give you free movement over your rear wheel/axle....

 

I've learnt to do that and feel way more confident coming down there now... I used to be in the same position you are in, flippen scared of Vasbyt, but now, I love it... Oh, and try and ride it with someone that knows the lines coming down there...

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Posted

Air pressure and compression damping circuit. Air pressure determines how much force is required to move the fork a given distance in its travel, compression damping limits the speed at which that fork will move in order to get there. No compression damping and no rebound damping - pogo stick = the fork moves as fast as teh air pressure allows it to, as the valves in the compression & rebound circuits are fully open, allowing oil to move between teh chambers unimpeded. 

 

Full rebound and compression damping - it's like sticky fudge. Still needs the same force to compress the fork for hte same distance, but because those valves are almost fully closed, it limits the speed at which the oil can move between chambers, and thus slows down the speed at which the fork reacts to hits. 

 

You need it somewhere int he middle, according to your personal preference and riding style, as well as the terrain you're riding. 

 

 

Edit: Tim, feel free to chime in - you're the oil expert here.

Ok so far I'm with you but how does a newbie like me identify whether there's too much or too little damping eg. when I first got my bike coming down the jeep track had my teeth rattling around my head big time at anything over about 20kph. Went for a bike setup with Debbie, she pumped a bit of air (or maybe let some out?)got Clint to bounce the fork a bit and twiddled the knob at the bottom and hey presto a million times better. Can't recall if they did anything to the rear, but I'm sure it's possible to tweak it a bit more and have it even better? I'm reluctant to fiddle because I really have no idea whether to take it in or out or front or rear. Life can be so complicated.

Posted

EDF: try understand what each adjustment on your shock or fork does, and then go play: ride, adjust, rinse repeat.  There is really no better way to understand suspension than to play with it. Do it one at a time: swing it fully one way: go ride. swing it fully the other way. go ride. You'll quickly settle on a more personally agreeable middle-point.

 

user guides offer convenient settings, but somehow riders are too scared to deviate from the recommendations in the manual. That shouldn't be the case. Go play with your toys! Best way to learn.

Posted

Ok so far I'm with you but how does a newbie like me identify whether there's too much or too little damping eg. when I first got my bike coming down the jeep track had my teeth rattling around my head big time at anything over about 20kph. Went for a bike setup with Debbie, she pumped a bit of air (or maybe let some out?)got Clint to bounce the fork a bit and twiddled the knob at the bottom and hey presto a million times better. Can't recall if they did anything to the rear, but I'm sure it's possible to tweak it a bit more and have it even better? I'm reluctant to fiddle because I really have no idea whether to take it in or out or front or rear. Life can be so complicated.

The only real way (apart from getting someone to do it for you) is to fiddle. That's the best way to learn. Fiddle and read... Fiddle. Fiddle some more. Test all the time. 

 

I generally start off at the middle and work my way from there. If there are 20 clicks of rebound (you need to count how many times the knoppetjie clicks before it can't turn any more) then I put it 10 clicks out and then tune from there, depending if I want it faster or slower. Same for compression, 

Posted

The only real way (apart from getting someone to do it for you) is to fiddle. That's the best way to learn. Fiddle and read... Fiddle. Fiddle some more. Test all the time. 

 

I generally start off at the middle and work my way from there. If there are 20 clicks of rebound (you need to count how many times the knoppetjie clicks before it can't turn any more) then I put it 10 clicks out and then tune from there, depending if I want it faster or slower. Same for compression,

Once the Argus is out of the way and I have proper tyres back on I'll get into this. Just a dumb question, the rebound is set by the little red knoppertjie at the bottom of the fork leg and the red round ring on the shock (Fox Evolution) and the compression is set where???

Is compression the CTD settings?

Posted

Once the Argus is out of the way and I have proper tyres back on I'll get into this. Just a dumb question, the rebound is set by the little red knoppertjie at the bottom of the fork leg and the red round ring on the shock (Fox Evolution) and the compression is set where???

Is compression the CTD settings?

Have a look for your model here and take it from there - 

 

http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&listall=manual

Posted

I done Vasbyt about three weeks ago for the first time - mense, ek het amper my g@#$@#@t gesien, maar dit was lekker - I went down quite slow when the trail was quitter. I'm still working on my confidence for My Roots!

Posted

I done Vasbyt about three weeks ago for the first time - mense, ek het amper my g@#$@#@t gesien, maar dit was lekker - I went down quite slow when the trail was quitter. I'm still working on my confidence for My Roots!

Join up with us on Sunday at 3pm (regular ride time) and get all the help you need.

Posted

On settings, I've been told to start with your weight in kg's on fork for psi and weight in pounds for the rear shock psi. I'm quite a big guy (heavy lok) , so I run my rebound quite slow.

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