gerhardsnorbaard Posted October 6, 2015 Share Hi all I would like to adjust the rear brake calipers on a Giant XTC (carbon frame). I am a beginner and bought the bike 2nd hand. Do I need a torque wrench to do this? The caliper needs to get loosened where it bolts into the chainstay, readjusted, and tightened. The brake pad and rotor are rubbing slightly, I have already pried open the brake pads but the rub is still there. Internet told me that I do need a torque wrench, but is this true only for specific areas or for each and every bolt on the frame? This would pose an issue with run-of-the-mill adjustments like seat height, which I have already done without a torque wrench. Any help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donovan Le Cok Posted October 6, 2015 Share Definitely don't need a torque wrench to remove the calipers. Putting them on maybe. If you bolt the caliper back on careful not to over tighten you will be fine. You only need to tighten the caliper a little past where the bolts turn freely, some lock tight is a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanievb Posted October 6, 2015 Share tighten them to 6-8nm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerhardsnorbaard Posted October 6, 2015 Share Thanks Donovan for the quick reply, I appreciate it. I will consider the lock-tight idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Ruinaard Posted October 6, 2015 Share As the man said. Just be gentle and loosen them up, activate the brakes to align the pads and then retighten. Its always good to have a torque wrench but unless you have the touch of a blacksmith you can do without it on small jobs. If you are notorious for snapping bolts and stripping threads and have no experience then just exercise caution. Tighten lightly and then pinch it closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted October 6, 2015 Share Thanks Donovan for the quick reply, I appreciate it. I will consider the lock-tight idea. If you do use lock tight - use the BLUE one.... red is rather more permanent than you might like. JXV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerhardsnorbaard Posted October 6, 2015 Share Great stuff hubbers, it seems there is a wealth of knowledge on this here forum Donovan Le Cok 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted October 6, 2015 Share Great stuff hubbers, it seems there is a wealth of knowledge on this here forum Among other things, yes. For reference - 8Nm is about what you'd use on a door handle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
velomonatiCT Posted October 6, 2015 Share yeah take a chance and split your carbon whatever or....buy one of these from shamus best bike gadget you will ever own for a carbon anything period >! https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/157467-ritchey-torque-keys/ Edited October 6, 2015 by velomonatiCT BenReaper and the nerd 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 6, 2015 Share You definitely shouldn't use a torque wrench to loosen your bolts. Head on over to Global Cycling Network to learn about toque wrenches and where to use grease, fiberlock, threadlock and anti seize. http://www.globalcyclingnetwork.com/videos/sec-how-to/how-where-to-use-grease-fiber-grip-threadlock-anti-seize-on-your-bike/ http://www.globalcyclingnetwork.com/videos/sec-how-to/how-to-use-a-torque-wrench-gcns-guide-to-tightening-bolts-safely/ Edited October 6, 2015 by geraldm24 johannrissik and Rocket-Boy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerhardsnorbaard Posted October 7, 2015 Share yeah take a chance and split your carbon whatever or....buy one of these from shamus best bike gadget you will ever own for a carbon anything period >! https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/157467-ritchey-torque-keys/ ^^^ That. Would I go with a 4 or a 5 nm? I see the seat post needs 5nm, the stem is on 6nm and apparently the brake caliper is on 6-8nm. Any other critical areas that I missed? From the looks of it a 5nm torque key would be a good intermediate solution to doing the seat post and stem (at least). These under R500 expenses tend to rack up, other startup items in line are cycling computer, chain breaker and bike stand. But this key seems like a peace-of-mind priority? Edited October 7, 2015 by gerhardsnorbaard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted October 7, 2015 Share If you keep an eye on specials you can pick up a 2 - 14Nm torque wrench for around R 700, but for most applications the 5Nm one will be fine. gerhardsnorbaard 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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