boredgirl Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 My Cannondale came standard with 11-32 and a compact crank. I see nothing wrong with that and I love it. I love the disk brakes it came with even more though
Rudi33 Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 DurianRider rides with Team Sky and he rides 32 cassette on his DA9000RD setup.. rides Compact on all his bikes.
Icycling Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Anybody know for certain if you riding 11 / 32 and 50/34 if you need a long cage rear der?
GaryvdM Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Anybody know for certain if you riding 11 / 32 and 50/34 if you need a long cage rear der? Yes, but best to check the specs on the exact model of derailer you have. E.G.:RD-6870-SS supports 28-12 to 23-11RD-6870-GS supports 32-12 to 28-11
shaper Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Anybody know for certain if you riding 11 / 32 and 50/34 if you need a long cage rear der?Shimano, SRAM, Campy? Look up the specs on your RD, it will state what the max can be for the cassette
Mopkop Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Im running Sram Force 22. Had a 11-28 on a 53/39 crank before changing the cassette to 11/32. The B-limiter is basically all the way in to and shifting is a breeze. the only thing I cant do now is run 53t in the 32 or 28 on the cassette. That is extreme cross chaining in anycase so I do not do that. This was done on the standard short cage derailleur. O yes, I bought a 105 cassette. Do this before trying the longer cage derailleur
NotSoBigBen Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Im running Sram Force 22. Had a 11-28 on a 53/39 crank before changing the cassette to 11/32. The B-limiter is basically all the way in to and shifting is a breeze. the only thing I cant do now is run 53t in the 32 or 28 on the cassette. That is extreme cross chaining in anycase so I do not do that. This was done on the standard short cage derailleur. O yes, I bought a 105 cassette. Do this before trying the longer cage derailleurIt's that one time you forget that you can't and you wrap the RD around itself and end your ride/race that worries me ..... Just me?
Mopkop Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 It's that one time you forget that you can't and you wrap the RD around itself and end your ride/race that worries me ..... Just me?It actually happen while on the stand. I do not want that to happen on a ride.. DAAR GAAN GROOT K4K WEES!!! As soon as the gears start feeling lighter or theres a hill coming and im on my big blade, Im looking down to see how far I've stil got to go, before any damage is done hehehehehehe
intern Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 The first time I did the DC a few years ago as a fairly noob cyclist I had a veteran team mate take the absolute p!ss out of my 30t which he referred to as a 'satellite dish'. Needless to say I was less than sympathetic when I passed him on 170 kms after he had bonked. You're doing it right.
rudi-h Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 if you fly past somebody on a hill with a 32 cog, you won't be the one being judged. cycling at a ~90 cadence means more power to the wheels. if the terrain is such that you need a 32 to stick to 90 cadence, then it's optimal. no point in "toughing it out" with a 23 if you can only manage a cadence of 50... but that said, low gears make you stronger during training which could be a good reason not to go too high on the gear teeth. For racing you need optimal cadence, so choose your weapons so that you can achieve this.
NotSoBigBen Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 if you fly past somebody on a hill with a 32 cog, you won't be the one being judged. cycling at a ~90 cadence means more power to the wheels. if the terrain is such that you need a 32 to stick to 90 cadence, then it's optimal. no point in "toughing it out" with a 23 if you can only manage a cadence of 50... but that said, low gears make you stronger during training which could be a good reason not to go too high on the gear teeth. For racing you need optimal cadence, so choose your weapons so that you can achieve this. Back when I started riding (late eighties) our mentor at the time told us 'train the BIG gears but race the RIGHT gear!' and 'he who spins wins!' so must be some truth in this.
Velouria Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 On a side note, the Garmin cadence sensor stops reporting your cadence if it drops below 22 rpm
Rudi33 Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 Anybody know for certain if you riding 11 / 32 and 50/34 if you need a long cage rear der? Not needed... My short cage 7900Rd handles 30 and 32
SwissVan Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 Not needed... My short cage 7900Rd handles 30 and 32 Velly interesting thanks for the vids
T-Bob Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 ** Hijack Alert ** Just wondering if anyone wants to swap out my BB30 FSA SL-K light in 52 / 39 (130 BCD) for their SL-K compact version (110 BCD) with 50 / 34 or 52 / 36 on it? ** End Hijack **
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