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Posted

Much of this is of course thumb sucking, because throat erosion happens more quickly if you shoot the barrel very hot. That is why full auto things wear barrels out in no time at all, whether they are slow or fast, not that accuracy is their main purpose. So, if you let your barrel cool between shots and strings, it will extend its life greatly. Most hunting rifles, even most range rifles, will never wear out a barrel. It is more likely for accuracy to fall off because of fouling or neglect / rust etc. The below is someone on the interwebs "wisdom", for what it's worth:

 

.223 Remington (3,000 to 4,000 shots)

22/250 Remington (2500 shots)

.270 Winchester (3,000 shots)

7mm Remington Magnum (1,500 shots)

30/30 Winchester (6,000 + shots) He says "God only knows, never saw one shot out!

30-06 (4,000 to 5,000 shots)

.300 WSM (2,000 shots)

.300 Weatherby (1,000 to 1,500 shots)

.338 Winchester Magnum (2,500 to 3,000 shots)

 

 

Why anybody in his right mind would ever want to shoot 1000 rounds with a 300 Weatherby I cannot imagine, unless he also loves getting kicked in the head by a horse. Also note that the big bores are not even on the list, probably because they cannot possibly see enough use to wear anything out, ok, maybe stocks do crack from the big boys.

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Posted

 

.270 Winchester (3,000 shots)

 

 

 

This surprised me a fair bit. Thought it will be in the same range as the 7mm. 

 

As a hunting rifle they very rarely see these rounds counts. BUT with the long range shooting comps and the issue of keeping dedicated status creeps in you see people shooting more often. A friend of mine does the Long range comps, I forgot the exact number of shots over a weekend (which then excludes training etc) he recons he'll kill his 6.5 CM's barrel in a bit over 18 months! Then accuracy will start dropping, will most likely not be noticed at 200m for a while but definitely at 1.6km!

Posted

Much of this is of course thumb sucking, because throat erosion happens more quickly if you shoot the barrel very hot. That is why full auto things wear barrels out in no time at all, whether they are slow or fast, not that accuracy is their main purpose. So, if you let your barrel cool between shots and strings, it will extend its life greatly. Most hunting rifles, even most range rifles, will never wear out a barrel. It is more likely for accuracy to fall off because of fouling or neglect / rust etc. The below is someone on the interwebs "wisdom", for what it's worth:

 

.223 Remington (3,000 to 4,000 shots)

22/250 Remington (2500 shots)

.270 Winchester (3,000 shots)

7mm Remington Magnum (1,500 shots)

30/30 Winchester (6,000 + shots) He says "God only knows, never saw one shot out!

30-06 (4,000 to 5,000 shots)

.300 WSM (2,000 shots)

.300 Weatherby (1,000 to 1,500 shots)

.338 Winchester Magnum (2,500 to 3,000 shots)

 

 

Why anybody in his right mind would ever want to shoot 1000 rounds with a 300 Weatherby I cannot imagine, unless he also loves getting kicked in the head by a horse. Also note that the big bores are not even on the list, probably because they cannot possibly see enough use to wear anything out, ok, maybe stocks do crack from the big boys.

And THIS is why I shoot a 308 win.

A 300 WSM will empty your pocket pretty quick with ammo costs.

Posted

This surprised me a fair bit. Thought it will be in the same range as the 7mm. ..................

I think the 270 Win is about the same as the 7x64 both in terms of performance and barrel longevity. The 7x57 is just about on par with the 308. My 2c

Posted

Much of this is of course thumb sucking, because throat erosion happens more quickly if you shoot the barrel very hot. That is why full auto things wear barrels out in no time at all, whether they are slow or fast, not that accuracy is their main purpose. So, if you let your barrel cool between shots and strings, it will extend its life greatly. Most hunting rifles, even most range rifles, will never wear out a barrel. It is more likely for accuracy to fall off because of fouling or neglect / rust etc. The below is someone on the interwebs "wisdom", for what it's worth:

 

.223 Remington (3,000 to 4,000 shots)

22/250 Remington (2500 shots)

.270 Winchester (3,000 shots)

7mm Remington Magnum (1,500 shots)

30/30 Winchester (6,000 + shots) He says "God only knows, never saw one shot out!

30-06 (4,000 to 5,000 shots)

.300 WSM (2,000 shots)

.300 Weatherby (1,000 to 1,500 shots)

.338 Winchester Magnum (2,500 to 3,000 shots)

 

 

Why anybody in his right mind would ever want to shoot 1000 rounds with a 300 Weatherby I cannot imagine, unless he also loves getting kicked in the head by a horse. Also note that the big bores are not even on the list, probably because they cannot possibly see enough use to wear anything out, ok, maybe stocks do crack from the big boys.

The factors that influence barrel life are:

Powder charge (grains)

Temperature of the explosion.(some powders burn hotter than others)

The circumference of the bullet (2 x 3.14 x radius) 

Did the barrel cool down between shots (throat erosion)

Posted

Some bad news on my side. Turns out the guys at Safari is battling to get Tikka 300 wsm's in stock. The back order has stayed unfulfilled for months now. 

 

Meaning back to the drawing board I go: Do I stick with the caliber I want, and change platforms, or do I go with a different caliber in the same platform?

 

Reason why I chose the Tikka: It had a nice feel to it, bolt was smooth, came with a bull barrel, picatinny rails make life awesome for scope attachment and the front end of the stock is flat enough to allow decent contact with the bi-pod. 

 

I see the Savage LR hunter is in the same price category, comes with a an adjustable trigger however no picatinny rails and normal barrel.

 

Have a look on jaracal for Tikkas maybe you will get lucky!!!

Posted

............howa 270. .............

I have a soft very spot for my 270. It is an ugly duckling Field Mod 80 Musgrave that my father bought back when they were new, so it is now almost 40 years old. It has seen quite a bit of action in his hands as well as those of my brother and myself. I have no idea how many rounds it digested, but I would guess a good few thousand. The only modifications I made was to free float the barrel and glass bed the action. Oh, and I removed the varnish finish and did a London Oil stock treatment, which made it a nicer looking duck, if not a swan! It will shoot groups under 1 inch at 100 metres all day long with just about any load, but it gives its best accuracy with a 150 grain point. The smallest 5 group I could get is about 15 mm. The 150 grainers are heavy for a 270, and slower than its more common 135 grain loads, but works very well over distances under 200m and takes it up a notch in terms of reliable performance on larger game like kudu and gemsbok. I believe in always using premium bonded or monolythic bullets in the 270. It being pretty fast, easily 3000 fps, fragile jacketed bullets tend to disintegrate on impact at shorter distances. On paper it doesn't matter of course.

Posted

I have a soft very spot for my 270. It is an ugly duckling Field Mod 80 Musgrave that my father bought back when they were new, so it is now almost 40 years old. It has seen quite a bit of action in his hands as well as those of my brother and myself. I have no idea how many rounds it digested, but I would guess a good few thousand. The only modifications I made was to free float the barrel and glass bed the action. Oh, and I removed the varnish finish and did a London Oil stock treatment, which made it a nicer looking duck, if not a swan! It will shoot groups under 1 inch at 100 metres all day long with just about any load, but it gives its best accuracy with a 150 grain point. The smallest 5 group I could get is about 15 mm. The 150 grainers are heavy for a 270, and slower than its more common 135 grain loads, but works very well over distances under 200m and takes it up a notch in terms of reliable performance on larger game like kudu and gemsbok. I believe in always using premium bonded or monolythic bullets in the 270. It being pretty fast, easily 3000 fps, fragile jacketed bullets tend to disintegrate on impact at shorter distances. On paper it doesn't matter of course.

Those old Musgrave rifles were soooo underrated. In those days people bought any rubbish that could be imported. And looked down on our local products.

Posted

Those old Musgrave rifles were soooo underrated. In those days people bought any rubbish that could be imported. And looked down on our local products.

My dad had a Musgrave 30-06 that was a tack driver [emoji106]
Posted

so i bought my first rifle:)

 

howa 270. Secondhand but looks brand new. Doesn't look like the previous owner shot much. No marks on the stock and everything looks clean. Now to start the license application

Nice [emoji106]

 

What scope is on there?

 

Just needs a bipod now but stay away from the cheap stuff on eBay.

Posted

not sure about the scope. It says remington I think but can't recall the details. It came with the rifle and I'm sure it'll be fine to start out with to a few hundred meters. But will need to look for something better.

 

Am contemplating a bipod or just using the support bags.

Posted

I have two questions

 

What do you guys do when travelling with a rifle say on holiday. When you stop at a restaurant for a break what do you do with firearm? Do you leave it unattended in the car or what? I want to take my rifle to the but I know we'll have to stop along the way

 

Secondly what do you guys do with safe keys. In theory I guess we shouldn't be leaving the safe keys hanging up with the rest of the house keys. But safe keys are also quite big to be carrying around all the time. Do you try and hind them somewhere or what?

Posted

I have two questions

 

What do you guys do when travelling with a rifle say on holiday. When you stop at a restaurant for a break what do you do with firearm? Do you leave it unattended in the car or what? I want to take my rifle to the but I know we'll have to stop along the way

 

Secondly what do you guys do with safe keys. In theory I guess we shouldn't be leaving the safe keys hanging up with the rest of the house keys. But safe keys are also quite big to be carrying around all the time. Do you try and hind them somewhere or what?

Get a hard box and take it with you.NEVER leave it unattended in a car.

 

I had a rifle safe and a pistol safe in SA.Would lock the rifle keys in the pistol safe and i hid a key at home and left a set with my parents.Sometimes i'd even look past the key forgetting where i'd put it.

 

Have a fingerprint safe now but bought it on a auction.

Posted

thanks gummi

 

The reason i asked is because I don't ever want to leave it unattended. If it was stolen I'd be in serious serious poo. Might have to look at a hardcase.

 

Will also have to find a hiding place for the keys

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