RIFLE

[Goodbadugly]

If you plan to reload the odd round here and there (less than 100/year) it is not worth it. Load development and cost of equipment does not justify the occasional reloader. 

That said I would go with the heavier bullet. Problem with the 270 is that the barrel twist for most rifles is based on a 130gr bullet

Log onto a site like Jaracal.com. Lots of info there 

[mon-goose]

thanks. I have a buddy who has all the loading kit and I've been given around 150 cases and bullets. So all I need to purchase are the primers and powder to load these ones. I don't plan to spend the money on all the kit but will chip in with this guy. Loading is more about having fun together

 

Will have a look at jaracal

[Goodbadugly]

thanks. I have a buddy who has all the loading kit and I've been given around 150 cases and bullets. So all I need to purchase are the primers and powder to load these ones. I don't plan to spend the money on all the kit but will chip in with this guy. Loading is more about having fun together

 

Will have a look at jaracal

I have used S361 (somchem) in the 30-06 before with success.

Gun shops still have stock of that. Some reloaders dislike it because it is a ball powder.

BUT it is much much cheaper than imported propellants. If I remember correctly it was in the region of R300/500g.

If you just want to have fun, why not try S361! Just BEWARE of max loads. It is temperature and primer sensitive.

[mon-goose]

thanks for the advise

[johnson]

To do a proper load development you are going to need time and money and some decent equipment. I Don't mind sharing my formula but keep in mind that this is what I have found works best on my rifle. I Went through about 15 to 20 test loads using bullets from Sierra, Nosler and Barnes. My .270 is a Steyr Mannlicher Classic.

 

Norma cases.

CCI 250 Large Rifle Magnum Primers.

53.4 grains Somchem S365 propellant.

130 grain Nosler Partition bullets.

82.85 mm cartridge length.

 

This formula gives me consistent speeds of 2980 feet per second through the Chrony and 3 shot groupings on a R5 coin.

 

The picture shows my reloaded cartridge on the right compared to Factory PMP ProAmm 130 grain.

 

[Dubbin]

has anyone made their own brass tumbler / cleaner and willing to share there plans. Thinking of making one with a buddy

Had the same brainwave. Not worth the effort. Buy this instead:

https://www.capewatch.co.za/product/mini-tumbler/

R1.3k for a wet tumbler that can do 30 cases at a time versus R5-6K for traditional wet tumbler  that can do 100 cases at a time.

[Dubbin]

Had the same brainwave. Not worth the effort. Buy this instead:

https://www.capewatch.co.za/product/mini-tumbler/

R1.3k for a wet tumbler that can do 30 cases at a time versus R5-6K for traditional wet tumbler  that can do 100 cases at a time.

Works good enough. Do Batches of 30 for 30-06 and 40 for 6.5 Creedmoor.

[mon-goose]

I have used S361 (somchem) in the 30-06 before with success.

Gun shops still have stock of that. Some reloaders dislike it because it is a ball powder.

BUT it is much much cheaper than imported propellants. If I remember correctly it was in the region of R300/500g.

If you just want to have fun, why not try S361! Just BEWARE of max loads. It is temperature and primer sensitive.

So I’ve been advised that I can use S361 as a replacement for s365 on my 270 rounds if I use a magnum primer. Any with experience on this? Is it necessary to use a magnum primer?

[DJR]

So glad I stocked up on S365 

 

Btw Make sure your powders are stored safely. In their original containers and NOT in a tightly enclosed something like a small safe. The powder tins are designed to tear open when the powder ignites and not build up high pressure. That way it will just make a moerse fire but not explode like a pipe bomb. Also, make sure they are stored where you can easily grab them to evacuate in case of fire and tell the family about it as well.

 

Some more reading: https://www.vihtavuori.com/powders/storage-of-powders/

[DJR]

This is from something about reloading that I wrote very long ago, but that will always remain true. It's a bit long winded, but worth reading carefully:

 

SAFETY

 

The first and last word on reloading should always be: SAFETY. Self-discipline to follow safe practices without fail at all times, is the most essential ingredient a handloader MUST have. If you cannot pay absolute attention to every detail and do this every time, you should not even try your hand at reloading. You will be better off buying factory ammunition.

It is impossible to anticipate every possible mishap that could occur, and therefore the only remedy is to develop a rigid reloading routine to enhance safety and consistency and then to STICK TO THAT ROUTINE. The following is a good start, but must not be seen as the only possible system. You will have to work out a system of your own, and one that will work for YOU.

1. Selecting a Safe Load

Select the load and components to be used from a reputable reloading manual or the ballistic table that came with your can of powder, then double check to ensure that you are looking at the correct table. Do not confuse similarly named calibers (like 7x57 and 7x64 or 300 Win and 300 H&H). Stick to the EXACT components and measures as given in the ballistic tables and do NOT exceed maximum charges. Do not substitute different primers, powders or bullets and above all, do not try to be smarter than the very knowledgeable writers of your manual. Simply and carefully STAY WITHIN THE PUBLISHED SAFE PARAMETERS AT ALL TIMES.

2. Selecting Correct Equipment for Case Preparation

Start with an empty reloading bench and get ONLY the necessary equipment out for case preparation. When this stage has been completed, pack away all equipment that won’t be used during later stages.

3. Selecting Correct Components for Assembly

Place ONLY the appropriate powder, bullets, primers and cases on the bench for the assembly stage. NEVER have more than one type of powder, primer or bullet on the bench at the same time. This way, there is NO chance of inadvertently using the wrong component. Before starting to use these components, check again the numbers and labels against your ballistic tables to ensure that you will use the right ones.

4. Priming

Wear PROTECTIVE GLASSES, no matter how uncool, during the priming process and make sure that it is performed correctly and with the utmost care. Keep the powder can closed during this whole time so that if you detonate a primer while seating it, there is NO chance of sparks getting into the powder. When finished, put all unused primers back in their original packaging. Check that all primers are seated correctly by placing the cases neck-down in a loading block and feeling to ensure that they are not standing proud. Using two loading blocks with a one-way flow from left (unprimed) to right (primed) will ensure that you do not miss a case.

5. Powder Charging

Set up and zero the powder scale before setting the desired weight and then check AGAIN against the ballistic tables. Set the powder-measure to throw the desired powder charge, weigh that charge and bring it to the correct weight with the powder-trickler. Once the scale has settled and the charge is right, pour it into the case by means of a powder-funnel and then transfer the charged case to a second loading block. If you pour powder directly from the powder-measure into the cases, weigh every fifth or tenth charge to ensure that your powder-measure remains accurate. After all cases have been powder charged, check the whole tray (each and every case INDIVIDUALLY), under good light, to see whether the powder levels are the same. This ensures that no double charges or empty cases can sneak through.

6. Seating Bullets

Check AGAIN that you have the correct bullets as shown in the ballistic tables and weigh one of these on your scale to confirm this. Bullets are then seated to the correct depth, measured with your vernier calipers and visually inspected.

7. Boxing, Labelling and Record Keeping

Box and label your ammunition correctly and write up your reloading records.

8. Clearing Workbench

Pour leftover powder back into the can and return all powder, primers and bullets to their storage space. Put all your tools away and clean your bench.

All the above eight points are meant only to give you an idea of how a logical procedure should flow to enhance safety and consistency.

[Goodbadugly]

So I’ve been advised that I can use S361 as a replacement for s365 on my 270 rounds if I use a magnum primer. Any with experience on this? Is it necessary to use a magnum primer?

My only experience in a 30-06 with S361.

I used standard primers.

According to the somchem website it should be ok in the 270. Starting off with minimum loads of course.

The test loads on the site was with PMP primers. Advertised as being "magnum" but in real life closer to standard primers.

https://www.somchemreload.com/search?c=8&f=36

[Goodbadugly]

So I’ve been advised that I can use S361 as a replacement for s365 on my 270 rounds if I use a magnum primer. Any with experience on this? Is it necessary to use a magnum primer?

I stopped at 59gr of S361 in my 30-06 (180gr). About 3 grains less than what is their (somchem) max load.

Always err on the safe side. Especially with ball powders and high ambient temperatures.

[mon-goose]

thanks. Recon starting with the minimum load is the best.

[deanbean]

With reloading I started at the minimum load and moved up 0.4gn at a time. Did 5 loads at each, then tested accuracy over 50m. Amazingly enough the minimum load was the most accurate on my every day carry rifle(a .222 Remington Sako), which suits me as it's quiet. Only 23.2gn to get a good grouping

[DJR]

Little hacks from todays job:

 

Clean out dust and grime from little impossible to reach places with Prestik. It gets them spotless, especially dust that accumulated in oily little places and cannot be blown out with compressed air and cannot be reached with a brush. 

 

Oh, and put a little Locktite Blue on all little screws, especially scope bases, rings and sight screws, 

 

Use dedicated hollow grind screwdrivers that fit each screw perfectly or your screws will soon enough look like that mangled one on the right.

[DJR]

Every so often, check that a free floating barrel is still free floating. Wooden stocks warp, dirt, dust, oil, grime builds up in there and sooner or later the barrel will touch and your accuracy will go erratic. Simply slip a note between the barrel and the stock. A R10 works just as well as a R100. It should slide freely along the whole length of the barrel. If not, disassemble, clean, re-assemble, check again.