Fork advice -newbie

[PedalCrazy]

Hi, first of all total newbie to MTB and really enjoying this forum, am learning so much!

 

I have always wanted a Specialized bike so went out and bought myself a Specialized Rockhopper 29 as I first want to see if the "bug" bites before spending more cash... I will be replacing the pedals with Shimano M520 this weekend ....

 

I will be doing general non-competitive riding along gravel roads etc so nothing hectic until I get more comfortable handling the bike before hitting the more serious trails etc.

 

Question I have is that will I be able to upgrade the shocks (think currently coil springs), read on google that logical upgrade would be to air shocks like Rockshox Reba but then the tampered, adapter jargon confused me.

 

Would appreciate any advise in fairly simple terms as I am still getting into the technical stuff/terms...

 

Thanks

[popcorn_skollie]

Hi, first of all total newbie to MTB and really enjoying this forum, am learning so much!

 

I have always wanted a Specialized bike so went out and bought myself a Specialized Rockhopper 29 as I first want to see if the "bug" bites before spending more cash... I will be replacing the pedals with Shimano M520 this weekend ....

 

I will be doing general non-competitive riding along gravel roads etc so nothing hectic until I get more comfortable handling the bike before hitting the more serious trails etc.

 

Question I have is that will I be able to upgrade the shocks (think currently coil springs), read on google that logical upgrade would be to air shocks like Rockshox Reba but then the tampered, adapter jargon confused me.

 

Would appreciate any advise in fairly simple terms as I am still getting into the technical stuff/terms...

 

Thanks

 

Congrats on your bike and welcome to the circus.

 

The word used for a mountain bike's front suspension is fork.

Only because the word 'shocks' are commonly used to describe mountain bikes with rear suspension. 

 

Moving on. You've only just started and considering that you're really just gravel grinding at the moment there is no reason to get too hung up on upgrades just yet. Enjoy your bike as it is for the time being. Get outdoors. get fit and the skills and confidence are sure to follow. 

The bike and its existing suspension is perfectly capable of handling dirt roads.

 

To answer your question though. Recreational entry level bikes tend to come with spring loaded forks instead of forks with air dampers to meet a certain price point. Its generally considered that these range of forks don't offer the same damping capabilities as their air filled counterparts. Which may be true but not because air dampers are inherently superior in every way. There are MANY top tier forks which use both spring and air loaded dampers and in this arena it becomes about rider preference and use of the correct spring per rider weight. I'm willing to bet its unlikely that you can change to a harder or softer spring in your fork though but I guess you'll have to find out for yourself. If it was. It probably won't be worth the effort either. But I may be wrong. The benefit of an air fork is that if you want it harder you put in more air. if you want it softer you take some air out. It gets a helluva lot more complicated than this as you learn more but that's all that matters for now.

 

Should you start shredding rockgardens and actually noticing the existing forks shortcomings. Then upgrading is certainly an option. Its true that the modern standard for most forks are that almost all of them have tapered steerers. In short what this means is that almost any new fork you would want to purchase in a store would not fit your frame.

Heres why. A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

http://i.imgur.com/0CCKXZf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Qw4yuik.jpg

 

From the pics you can see that the wider lower diametre of the current standard steerer tubes (bottom left) wont fit into the older straight head tube of the frame (top right).

There are exceptions though, but these are few and far between and you'll have to find out for yourself. This doesn't mean that upgrading to an air fork is impossible. It just means finding one will be a little harder. Should you want to go that route sometime in the future.

Best to keep an eye on the classifieds section as your best bet would be to find a pre-loved older model.

Besure to check the following things to make sure it fits your existing bike setup.

1 steerer tube (tapered or straight)

2. steerer tube length ( is it long enough to go all the way through my frames headtube with enough left for my stem to clamp on an maybe a spacer or two.

3 fork axle measurements. The bit that fixes the fork to the wheel has to cater for the size of your wheels front hub. 

 

Its best to go to your local bike shop and talk to someone about these things so you understand them better.

But my honest advice to you is this. Don't worry about upgrades.

Enjoy your bike as it is. Happy trails. 

[Wayne Potgieter]

Congrats on your bike and welcome to the circus. the following things to make sure it fits your existing bike setup.

1 steerer tube (tapered or straight)

you is this. Don't worry about upgrades.

Enjoy your bike as it is. Happy trails.

Great reply.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[PedalCrazy]

Congrats on your bike and welcome to the circus.

 

The word used for a mountain bike's front suspension is fork.

Only because the word 'shocks' are commonly used to describe mountain bikes with rear suspension. 

 

Moving on. You've only just started and considering that you're really just gravel grinding at the moment there is no reason to get too hung up on upgrades just yet. Enjoy your bike as it is for the time being. Get outdoors. get fit and the skills and confidence are sure to follow. 

The bike and its existing suspension is perfectly capable of handling dirt roads.

 

To answer your question though. Recreational entry level bikes tend to come with spring loaded forks instead of forks with air dampers to meet a certain price point. Its generally considered that these range of forks don't offer the same damping capabilities as their air filled counterparts. Which may be true but not because air dampers are inherently superior in every way. There are MANY top tier forks which use both spring and air loaded dampers and in this arena it becomes about rider preference and use of the correct spring per rider weight. I'm willing to bet its unlikely that you can change to a harder or softer spring in your fork though but I guess you'll have to find out for yourself. If it was. It probably won't be worth the effort either. But I may be wrong. The benefit of an air fork is that if you want it harder you put in more air. if you want it softer you take some air out. It gets a helluva lot more complicated than this as you learn more but that's all that matters for now.

 

Should you start shredding rockgardens and actually noticing the existing forks shortcomings. Then upgrading is certainly an option. Its true that the modern standard for most forks are that almost all of them have tapered steerers. In short what this means is that almost any new fork you would want to purchase in a store would not fit your frame.

Heres why. A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

http://i.imgur.com/0CCKXZf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Qw4yuik.jpg

 

From the pics you can see that the wider lower diametre of the current standard steerer tubes (bottom left) wont fit into the older straight head tube of the frame (top right).

There are exceptions though, but these are few and far between and you'll have to find out for yourself. This doesn't mean that upgrading to an air fork is impossible. It just means finding one will be a little harder. Should you want to go that route sometime in the future.

Best to keep an eye on the classifieds section as your best bet would be to find a pre-loved older model.

Besure to check the following things to make sure it fits your existing bike setup.

1 steerer tube (tapered or straight)

2. steerer tube length ( is it long enough to go all the way through my frames headtube with enough left for my stem to clamp on an maybe a spacer or two.

3 fork axle measurements. The bit that fixes the fork to the wheel has to cater for the size of your wheels front hub. 

 

Its best to go to your local bike shop and talk to someone about these things so you understand them better.

But my honest advice to you is this. Don't worry about upgrades.

Enjoy your bike as it is. Happy trails. 

 

Awesome reply - thanks for the time taken and now makes more sense ...

 

Clearly I am a newbie getting the Fork vs Shocks statement wrong from the get go!

 

Is it Saturday yet - cannot wait to try the bike out!

[Reden]

Great reply and advice.

 

Don't worry about what you ride. First learn to ride then think about upgrading.

When it's time to choose a fork, speak to your local bike shop. Speak to more than one though.

Choose a fork that that have good backup and service.

[Martin PJ]

Don't worry about the shock. Get some decent tubeless tires and you are good to go. 

 

In the beginning even the "clip in" pedals are not that important. You can ride just as well with flat pedals.

[AlanD]

Congrats on your bike and welcome to the circus.

 

The word used for a mountain bike's front suspension is fork.

Only because the word 'shocks' are commonly used to describe mountain bikes with rear suspension.

 

Moving on. You've only just started and considering that you're really just gravel grinding at the moment there is no reason to get too hung up on upgrades just yet. Enjoy your bike as it is for the time being. Get outdoors. get fit and the skills and confidence are sure to follow.

The bike and its existing suspension is perfectly capable of handling dirt roads.

 

To answer your question though. Recreational entry level bikes tend to come with spring loaded forks instead of forks with air dampers to meet a certain price point. Its generally considered that these range of forks don't offer the same damping capabilities as their air filled counterparts. Which may be true but not because air dampers are inherently superior in every way. There are MANY top tier forks which use both spring and air loaded dampers and in this arena it becomes about rider preference and use of the correct spring per rider weight. I'm willing to bet its unlikely that you can change to a harder or softer spring in your fork though but I guess you'll have to find out for yourself. If it was. It probably won't be worth the effort either. But I may be wrong. The benefit of an air fork is that if you want it harder you put in more air. if you want it softer you take some air out. It gets a helluva lot more complicated than this as you learn more but that's all that matters for now.

 

Should you start shredding rockgardens and actually noticing the existing forks shortcomings. Then upgrading is certainly an option. Its true that the modern standard for most forks are that almost all of them have tapered steerers. In short what this means is that almost any new fork you would want to purchase in a store would not fit your frame.

Heres why. A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

http://i.imgur.com/0CCKXZf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Qw4yuik.jpg

 

From the pics you can see that the wider lower diametre of the current standard steerer tubes (bottom left) wont fit into the older straight head tube of the frame (top right).

There are exceptions though, but these are few and far between and you'll have to find out for yourself. This doesn't mean that upgrading to an air fork is impossible. It just means finding one will be a little harder. Should you want to go that route sometime in the future.

Best to keep an eye on the classifieds section as your best bet would be to find a pre-loved older model.

Besure to check the following things to make sure it fits your existing bike setup.

1 steerer tube (tapered or straight)

2. steerer tube length ( is it long enough to go all the way through my frames headtube with enough left for my stem to clamp on an maybe a spacer or two.

3 fork axle measurements. The bit that fixes the fork to the wheel has to cater for the size of your wheels front hub.

 

Its best to go to your local bike shop and talk to someone about these things so you understand them better.

But my honest advice to you is this. Don't worry about upgrades.

Enjoy your bike as it is. Happy trails.

Excellent reply Skollie.

[AlanD]

Don't worry about the shock. Get some decent tubeless tires and you are good to go.

 

In the beginning even the "clip in" pedals are not that important. You can ride just as well with flat pedals.

+1 for flat pedals

[HenkD]

Don't worry about the shock. Get some decent tubeless tires and you are good to go. 

 

In the beginning even the "clip in" pedals are not that important. You can ride just as well with flat pedals.

Tubeless is a great add one. it was the best money I spent

[PedalCrazy]

Awesome - thanks all.... will be changing my priority list to include tubeless tires .... any other critical items (have water cage + bottle + helmet already)?

[eddy]

Awesome - thanks all.... will be changing my priority list to include tubeless tires .... any other critical items (have water cage + bottle + helmet already)?

Tubeless tires is without doubt the first (and probably only) upgrade you MUST do. Therafter it is about spoiling yourself.

 

You should then get yourself a small plug kit to close holes to large for the sealant. You get cheap ones or cool ones like the shamurai; they all work equally well. Do you have a pump ?

 

Oh, and some say....once you have done with all of this you need to upgrade to any bike except a Spez. Ignore us...

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Excellent advice from Skollie. As for the pedals - don't fall into theach trap that many new entrants to mtb do, and fit clipless pedals (cleats) from the get go, as it will not enable you to properly develop your skills as you would be able to with flat pedals.

 

Rather get a set of giant or specialized flats (the ones with steel pins in them) and ride with them. It'll allow you to learn proper techniques and bike control far easier than with cleats. It also allows you to dab a foot or start going again FAR easier than with cleats.

 

The reason it's better to start with flats is that cleats often are a crutch for bad technique. You don't learn proper technique for jumps, bunnyhops, drops etc cos you're connected to the bike and can use your legs to pull up - the totally wrong thing to do.

 

It's also more confidence inspiring to learn on flats, when you KNOW you can just take a foot off of you're in trouble and not worry about unclipping.

 

Just don't use those stock plastic "flat" pedals. Throw them in the bin.

[Skinnyone]

Welcome to the fray...you taken a step down a slippery slope....

 

I always advise people to not upgrade their existing bikes, doesn't matter for what...

 

Simply put, so you want to upgrade your fork, you have spent lets say R15k on your bike as it is, you spend another R5-8k on an air fork, you CANNOT now sell your bike on for R20k, you would have to take the fork off and put the standard one back on and then sell the bike for lets say R10k....

 

You now have a fork for a bike, but the new bike you buy to upgrade comes with a similar or better fork because you are buying in the next price bracket, you now have a fork that you can only sell for R3k...any way you look at it you are spending money un-necessarily and loosing money on every single "upgrade". 

 

Obviously tubeless, pedals, maybe grips and tyres are upgrades worth spending money on but never spend huge money upgrading...A lot of people disagree with my thinking but it has saved me a LOT of money in the long run...I have seen guys spend R10k on a set of wheels and sell them for R5k when the "next best thing" hits the market...that is R5k wasted to me...

 

Use the bike, enjoy the bike with the simple stuff and when the bug has bitten then sell that bike as is and spend a bit more on a complete bike in the next price range...

[EmptyB]

Good advice all round here.

 

Welcome the jungle and enjoy the ride.............

[Erroli8a8]

Ride with your tubes in first. Get a flat about 3Km from the house or car. Then get the tubless and the value becomes priceless.

[Martin PJ]

If you have extra cash, spend it on bike maintenance.

 

A good tool kit is also essential, I ride with a chain breaker tool, chain master links (many), two tire iron tire levers (big ones), small pliers, tubeless plugs (big ones) and plug tool, CO2 bomb adapter, 4 CO2 bombs in holders on my bottle cages.  All my tools fit inside a very small lunch box (big enough for one small sandwich) which goes in my back pocket.

 

If you want to know how to use any of the tools, check Youtube, somebody would have filmed it and put it there.

 

I hate camel packs, make your shoulders sore and makes you hot on long rides.