Car maintenance

[Pure Savage]

It lets you change gears manually. VW has a similar thing with their DSG where you push the lever to the left and going Tiptronic...

Yes, in the DSG box there are still gears, it just automatically changed.

 

In a cvt box there are zero gears, just two cones and belts.

 

 

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[cfcjim]

With a CVT, paddle shifters, and artificial “gears" address two classic gripes: the rubber-band effect (engine revs get higher, car speed eventually catches up) and the no-driver-involvement issue.

 

(Paraphrased from Car & Driver).

[Skylark]

Yes, in the DSG box there are still gears, it just automatically changed.

 

In a cvt box there are zero gears, just two cones and belts.

 

 

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How reliable is Cvt and maintenance/rebuild costs?

[AlanD]

What's the best way to silence squealing brakes? I checked the brake pads and they have plenty life left but the brakes squeak really bad. On the one side I cleaned the disk and pads with some isopropyl alcohol and it seemed to work a little bit only 

[cfcjim]

What's the best way to silence squealing brakes? I checked the brake pads and they have plenty life left but the brakes squeak really bad. On the one side I cleaned the disk and pads with some isopropyl alcohol and it seemed to work a little bit only 

High temperature grease on the back of the pads.

Check that the disks are not warped or scored.

Has it just started?

[Pure Savage]

How reliable is Cvt and maintenance/rebuild costs?

They are generally bullet proof as fewer moving parts.

 

My father in law did have a band snap on his scoopyba few years ago and was pricey but normally very reliable.

 

 

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[AlanD]

It's been like that for a while, ever since the discs and pads were replaced a while ago

[Pure Savage]

High temperature grease on the back of the pads.

Check that the disks are not warped or scored.

Has it just started?

I just drive like a boy racer for 5 minutes and I find once they are glowing red the squeaks stop.

 

Just don't stop straight away as the smoke does not smell great.

 

 

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[Skylark]

It's been like that for a while, ever since the discs and pads were replaced a while ago

Probably hard compound(the braking material) pads or just plain rubbish pads. I always try get Ate pads, they are the oem manufacturer for many car brands and not much more expensive than rubbish, they generally are the best balance of value, very good value for money.

[Sitting slip]

Anyone know of a lekker oke that can give hubber discount for leather work on seats?

Pretoria area

Edited February 4, 2017 by Sitting slip

[gazzacpt]

What's the best way to silence squealing brakes? I checked the brake pads and they have plenty life left but the brakes squeak really bad. On the one side I cleaned the disk and pads with some isopropyl alcohol and it seemed to work a little bit only

You haven't told us how old the car is or what brand you fitted. Some pads have hard spots and they squeal till you get through them, generally this is only on the cheaper pads.

If you got decent rotors and pads then strip off the caliper and caliper bracket clean any rust off the bracket where it contacts the pads around the pads "ears" . Apply a small amount and I mean thin film of copperslip/copper grease/high heat grease to the areas the ears of the pads contact to caliper bracket/cradle.

Make sure the pads slide in easily but not to loose. Never file a pads "ears" to try get it to fit in the cradle its most likely rust or crap built up in the cradle. Then add some of the grease in a very light film on the back of the pads where they contact the piston or caliper bracket/cradle.

Make sure you have fitted the new clips/springs that came with the new pads. Don't reuse the old ones.

You should have no budgies in your brakes after that.

I do this at every service not just when I replace pads. Maybe I'm OCD.

I can't stress enough that less is more with those copper compound grease types. They spread and get everywhere so if you dollop it on there it can find its way to the friction material and thats not what you want.

If you feel vibrations then the rotor isn't seated to the hub properly or its warped.

 

Good luck. On the newer cars you can't even do a brake bleed without a computer and a vacuum bleeder, and if it has an electronic handbrake you can't get the rear brakes off without a computer. What is this world coming to [emoji20]

 

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[AlanD]

Got some copper grease and proceeded to clean and apply

 

There was no rust i could see so just gave a wipe down, not a hectic clean and put the copper grease at the back of the pads and very little, im mean extremely little on the ears as i didn't want to contaminate the pads.

 

The car is a 1999 toyota Tazz and the pads said ferrodo premium and they have hardly worn. They were fitted by the place that worked on my engine a while back.

 

Took it for a test ride and although alot better, they still squeek aittle bit. I will live for this for now and see how it goes.

[gazzacpt]

Got some copper grease and proceeded to clean and apply

 

There was no rust i could see so just gave a wipe down, not a hectic clean and put the copper grease at the back of the pads and very little, im mean extremely little on the ears as i didn't want to contaminate the pads.

 

The car is a 1999 toyota Tazz and the pads said ferrodo premium and they have hardly worn. They were fitted by the place that worked on my engine a while back.

 

Took it for a test ride and although alot better, they still squeek aittle bit. I will live for this for now and see how it goes.

Lekker man. Those ferrodo's are good pads but very aggressive on the rotors. Someone else suggested ATE. Thats what I use,I also have a Tazz in the driveway. You don't really need Ferrodo "performance" on a Tazz I just found it ate my rotors faster. Will probably put ATE on the bakkie to when its due for brakes later.

When you change out the pads again do a light skim on the disc I can almost guarantee there will be a ridge and some scoring.

Sometimes the squeal can come from the rear drums as well lots of dust hangs around in there.

 

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Edited February 5, 2017 by gazzacpt

[AlanD]

I was surprised myslef when i saw the ferrodo pads but also rather chuffed they not crap ones.

 

Will at some point check the rear but for now its alot better so happy with that. Thanks for the advice.

[New Landy new life]

I have a terrible shudder when braking on my wife's little Vivo Sedan.

 

In the past I have changed front brake discs a few times which seemed under designed and often warped and that took care of it.

 

About a year ago was the last time I changed and went for Ferodo instead of OEM, but now the shudder is back and more severe.

 

You feel it in the brake pedal as feedback but also in the steering wheel.

I first jacked up the car and shook the springs which showed a lot of movement on the Strut Mounting in the first video clip.  Then I noticed the lower rubber bushing on the wishbone had a lot of up-down movement which I am not sure is normal as the car was jacked up and the wishbone and wheel were hanging on that rubber - see second video clip.

I did also check the lower ball joint with a tommy bar as well as the steering tie rod ends and no play noticed here.

 

I also took off one wheel at a time and ran the car in 4th gear and checked the runout on the brake discs and there is none.

 

The car has only 88K on the clock but we have hit some nasty deep potholes between Memel and Newcastle on holiday trips every 2 years or so.

 

Any opinions guys ?

Wishbone Rubber Bush.wmv

Strut Wobble.wmv

Edited February 5, 2017 by CapeLandy

[gazzacpt]

I have a terrible shudder when braking on my wife's little Vivo Sedan.

 

In the past I have changed front brake discs a few times which seemed under designed and often warped and that took care of it.

 

About a year ago was the last time I changed and went for Ferodo instead of OEM, but now the shudder is back and more severe.

 

You feel it in the brake pedal as feedback but also in the steering wheel.

I first jacked up the car and shook the springs which showed a lot of movement on the Strut Mounting in the first video clip. Then I noticed the lower rubber bushing on the wishbone had a lot of up-down movement which I am not sure is normal as the car was jacked up and the wishbone and wheel were hanging on that rubber - see second video clip.

I did also check the lower ball joint with a tommy bar as well as the steering tie rod ends and no play noticed here.

 

I also took off one wheel at a time and ran the car in 4th gear and checked the runout on the brake discs and there is none.

 

The car has only 88K on the clock but we have hit some nasty deep potholes between Memel and Newcastle on holiday trips every 2 years or so.

 

Any opinions guys ?

That lower bush looks worn, not sure about the strut, but I don't think it should move that much if nothing is disconnected. Take it to a suspension specialist i reckon, or maybe someone with more knowledge than me on VAG's can chime in.

 

 

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