The Home Improvement Thread

[AlanD]

It's a water pipe that goes to the radiators.

 

Was drilling into the wall to fit a box picture frame and drilled right into the pipe that was running down the middle of the wall...who puts a pipe there???...water pissing out into the lounge and running down the inside of the wall to the pitched downstairs..

 

Run outside to turn mains off. Had to call a plumber out who cut the whole in the drywall and simply put compression stops on each end of the pipe. Cost me 100 quid...ffs..

 

Gave me some story about the pipe being a specific mm as the place is a "new" build. Anyway, he said he would come to fix properly but haven't heard from him and want to fix myself cos it will be far cheaper.

 

So just a straight compression coupling to connet the two pipes should work right? No need to get more pipe as the gap is pretty small.

[porqui]

Saarp file works great.

 

Just use a koki to mark the position beforehand - helps.

[AlanD]

Saarp file works great.

 

Just use a koki to mark the position beforehand - helps.

Not sure I understand what I would need to file...can't I just connect the straight compression coupling?

[kosmonooit]

You will need filler bit of pipe and two compression adapters, as a i say you can use copper pipe, that looks like the 15mm, you should  be able to get by the m

 

You need to mark the location of the compression adapter on the pipe so the end is in the center.

 

 

Or call a plumber.

[kosmonooit]

Not sure I understand what I would need to file...can't I just connect the straight compression coupling?

 

okay I will repeat the advice

 

You get two types of these inline compression fittings, the normal one has a ridge inside that the pipe pushes against which is fine when you join two pipes together and you can slide the one in.

 

You cant use these because the replacement pipe has to fit in the gap so the compression adapters must slide back over the pipe, then you put in the replacement but, slide it back so it centers over the join.

Edited July 12, 2018 by kosmonooit

[Capricorn]

Best way to fix this?

the dry wall replacement is very easy, so frankly, i suggest you make that hole bigger so you can do better work on that pipe repair.

For that repair, i'd rather widen the gap between the pipes by cutting off another section, add in another section of matching (on OD) pipe, and use the appropriate compression fittings to join it all together. 

if you widen the gap, you can cut off exactly how much you need to accomodate for two compression fittings and the bridging pipe.

The compression fittings have an inner shoulder against which the pipe should butt up against. The internal distance between shoulders is normally known, 10mm for local brass compression fittings. So you extend the gap by twice the shoulder distance + the replacement pipe length of your choice.

It will go super swimmingly.

[AlanD]

okay I will repeat the advice

 

You get two types of these inline compression fittings, the normal one has a ridge inside that the pipe pushes against which is fine when you join two pipes together and you can slide the one in.

 

You cant use these because the replacement pipe has to fit in the gap so the compression adapters must slide back over the pipe, then you put in the replacement but, slide it back so it centers over the join.

I get what you saying. Two straight compression couplingS for either side of the replacement pipe to connect to the original pipe.

 

What if I can push the two ends of the pipes into one straightbcompression coupling, therefore negating a replacement piece of pipe? I think there is enough play to push the two pipes closer together.

[Capricorn]

I get what you saying. Two straight compression couplingS for either side of the replacement pipe to connect to the original pipe.

 

What if I can push the two ends of the pipes into one straightbcompression coupling, therefore negating a replacement piece of pipe? I think there is enough play to push the two pipes closer together.

if there is enough genuine free play (as opposed to a stretch or causing a kinked radius somewhere else, then that can work as well. But try not to limit your options based on the size of the opening. This is the kind of job you want to do properly. First time.

[porqui]

Not sure I understand what I would need to file...can't I just connect the straight compression coupling?

 

It has a ridge on the inside (the pipey bit) so the joint centers properly and you need to get rid of the ridge so the whole joint can slide over the pipe. That joint in the picture is what you need. Some do not have the ridge but hardware stores do not always have stock of them.

[AlanD]

Here is a pic of what it looks like now. The gap is rather small so thinking a straight compression coupling will work without more pipe but as said, it needs to be done properly.

 

I have plenty time so I'm not rushing into it.

[AlanD]

Those compression stoppers on there are 10mm I think

[kosmonooit]

What if I can push the two ends of the pipes into one straightbcompression coupling, therefore negating a replacement piece of pipe? I think there is enough play to push the two pipes closer together.

 

 

If there is enough slack in the pipe in the cavity that they can face each other then repair is much easier you don't have to phuk around filing compression adapters from your local DIY store you can use ONE stock one with the ridge in the middle and join the pipes

[kosmonooit]

You need the right length of pipe going full into the compression adapter for it to work properly (believe!) if the olive sits on the edge the pipe will not hold up to the compression

[AlanD]

If there is enough slack in the pipe in the cavity that they can face each other then repair is much easier you don't have to phuk around filing compression adapters from your local DIY store you can use ONE stock one with the ridge in the middle and join the pipes

Exactly what I'm aiming for so will test to see if I can just use one dapter and if not then will have to go with the other option.

[AlanD]

Finally got round to fixing this the weekend.

[mon-goose]

forgot about this thread. I need some advice on self leveling flooring. I've got a bathroom with a concrete floor about 4sqm in size. I want to put down a self leveling screed layer, possibly with a colour.  I want a product that gives a slightly smooth finish, ie, mustn't end with a rough concrete feel to it

 

Can anyone give me some advice on what I can use and also the prep work I need to do

 

The floor currently has a few bumps that I need to chip out but do I need to put anything else down on the bare concrete before I put the leveling mix down?