The Home Improvement Thread

[V12man]

whiteish sealent should be some kind of silicon based product.  If you only want to reseale, remove old sealent, clean area properly and then re-apply new silicon.

Use a mould resistant sealant - they are specifically marked - for bathroom use - some are acryilc based and some are silicon based - doesn't matter as long as it is mould resistant.

[popcorn_skollie]

I've been a busy little bee.

http://i.imgur.com/KRleZ40.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HYZHhiv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gmnejMh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/g4d853O.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2cdjbxW.jpg

Edited April 13, 2017 by popcorn_skollie

[popcorn_skollie]

The painting

http://i.imgur.com/wc1NTMt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZjHKYiV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/q4nNLQv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/4PRgIoE.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/mJMBpjp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/eGagdcx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gRV5vIO.jpg

[popcorn_skollie]

Bedroom closet

 

http://i.imgur.com/v0vj3BT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EKU44td.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/AG2Wxr7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/eZHADfz.jpg

Edited April 13, 2017 by popcorn_skollie

[BuffsVintageBikes]

Anyone on here have any knowledge on tiling?

 

I'm installing a strip of mosaic type stone tiles into my bathroom as a feature and I'm in doubt as to how to grout these stone tiles. It's not the normal pebble type tiles but rather flat cut square stone tiles on a gauze backing.

Do I first need to seal the tiles after setting them before actually grouting them?

The look rather porous so I'm in two minds about dragging grout over them and buggering them up.

[travisza]

I have a question on swimming pools and your kreepy crawly....recently mine has constantly been traveling up the walls of the pool and sucking a large amount of air before sinking back into the water.

 

Obviously not great for the pump. Any ideas on how to stop it sucking so much air? Is it just a case of putting one of those weights near the kreepy to try and force it down sooner?

[jimmycool]

I have a question on swimming pools and your kreepy crawly....recently mine has constantly been traveling up the walls of the pool and sucking a large amount of air before sinking back into the water.

 

Obviously not great for the pump. Any ideas on how to stop it sucking so much air? Is it just a case of putting one of those weights near the kreepy to try and force it down sooner?

Do you have a spring loaded weir valve?

If so try reducing the tension on it a bit and the kreepy won't have quite as much power and thus won't climb out the water.

[travisza]

Do you have a spring loaded weir valve?

If so try reducing the tension on it a bit and the kreepy won't have quite as much power and thus won't climb out the water.

I do. Good idea, I'll try that

[Dubber]

The painting

http://i.imgur.com/wc1NTMt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZjHKYiV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/q4nNLQv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/4PRgIoE.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/mJMBpjp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/eGagdcx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gRV5vIO.jpg

Nice work!  For the painting - did you spray the panels in place?  Or remove, spray and reinstall?  (Or just paint by hand?)

[popcorn_skollie]

Nice work!  For the painting - did you spray the panels in place?  Or remove, spray and reinstall?  (Or just paint by hand?)

 

The carcasses were sprayed once fitted. Doors and exposed panels were the only ones that had to be done individually since they were done in this outydse paint effect by brush. Once everything is assembled. Its sprayed/painted with a resin sealent. 

 

I highly recommend this route for anyone on a budget wanting to avoid melamine. In my experience melamine just don't belong in kitchens. Especially if they rest directly on the floor.

Whatever you do. Make sure you build a box type base for the carcasses to rest on. Then tile those boxes. It should go without saying but lots of contractors out there still need to be told.  

Melamine tends to soak up moisture from mopping, leaking pipes inside your sink area and of course the tops tend to bubble, crack and fade from all the surface cleaning agents. I opted for a white paint effect because it best matched the Caesar stone I chose. The grey was cheapest. 

 

Took this a couple days ago. Co-incidentally the guy who painted it asked for some pics to add to his portfolio. The floating shelf you see is actually a construction site scaffold plank I had planed and cut and drilled. Actually used three of them in my kitchen. Mounted it to the wall using the steel pegs they use in the foundation trench brickwork. It also helps that its resting on the splashback tiles which are quite thick

[AlanD]

Best way to fix this?

[kosmonooit]

Best way to fix this?

 

Water? 15 or 22mm?

 

You get these compression Conex brass fittings / unions that slide over the pipe, you will need 2x.

 

Cut a replace piece of pipe (you can use copper pipe as well) to fit

 

Slide back the unions each side  insert the new piece then slide back paying attention the centre (mark beforehand) then tighten, do not over tighten, 

 

You can put a wrap or two of teflon tape over the olive just to avoid drips.

 

You also get the unions that have a step in the middle, in this case you want the type that will slide over the pipe

[kosmonooit]

Not sure if the brand name is Conex in the UK but asking for compression fittings best try a plumbing supplies 

[porqui]

Get a straight compression joint from the hardware store.

File out the step on the inside of the joint with a round file.

Slide completely over the on end and then back it up over the other end - tighten and bobs your uncle

[kosmonooit]

Filing would be a last option if you cant get the slip type without the step, they are stock in any plumbers tool box. Even then its going to be tricky job filing out the step, make sure you take the olives out before attempting to file

 

[AlanD]

It's a water pipe that goes to the radiators.

 

Was drilling into the wall to fit a box picture frame and drilled right into the pipe that was running down the middle of the wall...who puts a pipe there???...water pissing out into the lounge and running down the inside of the wall to the pitched downstairs..

 

Run outside to turn mains off. Had to call a plumber out who cut the whole in the drywall and simply put compression stops on each end of the pipe. Cost me 100 quid...ffs..

 

Gave me some story about the pipe being a specific mm as the place is a "new" build. Anyway, he said he would come to fix properly but haven't heard from him and want to fix myself cos it will be far cheaper.

 

So just a straight compression coupling to connet the two pipes should work right? No need to get more pipe as the gap is pretty small.