Advice needed on MTB brakes

[porqui]

Romulus have you tried to figure out why your Magura MT2 are not to your liking - are they set up properly.

[Knersboy]

With regard to OP and the Formula brakes, I had a set of the Formula C1s (entry level). They were great brakes and I never had any reliability issues, although not too powerful. Only problem was the pad wear. Went through metallic pads like crazy and they are expensive.

 

Replaced them with XT8000s, the finned metallic pads have so far lasted 4 times longer than the Formula metallic pads, and they still have plenty meat left. Soon the XTs will have paid for themselves and they are super powerful, got PBs on all my tricky descents since I installed them.

[DoomedUser]

I just received a new bike. My front brakes are very snappy but the rear brakes I need to compress quite hard on the brake lever to stop. It is shimano hydraulic brakes. How do I adjust so that the brake lever "tension" is more responsive?

[Guest]

Unfortunately you cannot really adjust the brake to make it more responsive. if it an Shimano XT  or XTR  it does have a reach adjustment. This will move the lever closer or further out from the main body. It is a small wheel on the front of the brake lever body.

 

The front brake is usually a bit stronger because the hydraulic fluid has less distance to travel to activate the pistons, so that is normal.

 

You might need a brake bleed which I would suggest you get a bike shop to do if you are new in the game, it can be tricky.

 

Also check your brake pads are  aligned correctly with the brake rotor.

 

New brake pads are sometimes a bit weak and can take time to "bed in" as well. 

Edited September 30, 2016 by chainsaw

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I just received a new bike. My front brakes are very snappy but the rear brakes I need to compress quite hard on the brake lever to stop. It is shimano hydraulic brakes. How do I adjust so that the brake lever "tension" is more responsive?

You need to bleed them... 

[Showtime]

Don't look at brakes in isolation and make blanket statements like ..... brakes are crap or amazing.

 

A set of poorly bled Shimano brakes with contaminated pads will be horrible but bleed them and pop in a set of new resin pads with new rotors and it's a different story.

 

Yes some brakes are inherently better but the best set with contaminated pads will be worse than most other sets.   

[dee_biker]

Romulus....my advice....Go shimano XT! They are trustworthy easy to maintain and spares are easy to source. 

 

Agree. I have had XT for 4 years now, original parts except rotors and pads. It is the one part on my bike I just not worry about AT ALL! It just works, in any conditions.

 

Even if I had the budget to go XTR, I would put XT on again, no question. What you lose in the couple of grams in weight, you gain in confidence and reliability.

[porqui]

I just received a new bike. My front brakes are very snappy but the rear brakes I need to compress quite hard on the brake lever to stop. It is shimano hydraulic brakes. How do I adjust so that the brake lever "tension" is more responsive?

 

New bike - take it back to the store and tell them to sort it out. There should hardly be any difference.

(Make of brakes?)

 

Just remember rear brakes always take longer to stop a bike - there is science behind it. But there should be no difference in the operation of the front and rear brakes.

Edited September 30, 2016 by porqui

[JXV]

I just received a new bike. My front brakes are very snappy but the rear brakes I need to compress quite hard on the brake lever to stop. It is shimano hydraulic brakes. How do I adjust so that the brake lever "tension" is more responsive?

As Chainsaw said... there may be air in the hydraulics. This causes spongy lever with weak braking. Before you go and bleed them, make sure the pad alignment is 100% and there is no contamination (oil, grease, even a greasy fingerprint can ruin braking).

 

The cleaner/degreasers that some use on their bikes can contaminate brakes.

 

Contamination can be cleaned by wiping with Isopropyl alcohol (disk and pads) or even better, acetone soaked into a clean rag.

 

Remove wheels and pads from bike for this because acetone is a very strong solvent that can damage paint and even some resins used for carbon fibre parts. It will also dry out your skin so take steps to limit your contact with it.

 

After the acetone, rinse parts in clean water and dry then refit.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Edited September 30, 2016 by JXV

[Martin PJ]

I just received a new bike. My front brakes are very snappy but the rear brakes I need to compress quite hard on the brake lever to stop. It is shimano hydraulic brakes. How do I adjust so that the brake lever "tension" is more responsive?

 

Are they spongy or just long pull? If spongy then must be bled. If they are long pull, then take the wheel out, pump brakes one or two times then put the wheel back. This will bring the lever up.

[Koos Likkewaan 2]

I know this is an old thread, but I am to lazy to start a new one.

Anyone know who I can trust to bleed my SRAM brakes (mtb), on the East Rand ?

Don't want brake fluid damage al over the bike.

It is the only bike I have with SRAM brakes and it does not make sense to buy the kit. (Level ULT with Bleeding Edge calipers)

 

[Steven421]

38 minutes ago, Koos Likkewaan 2 said:

I know this is an old thread, but I am to lazy to start a new one.

Anyone know who I can trust to bleed my SRAM brakes (mtb), on the East Rand ?

Don't want brake fluid damage al over the bike.

It is the only bike I have with SRAM brakes and it does not make sense to buy the kit. (Level ULT with Bleeding Edge calipers)

 

I've only received good service from CycleLab in Boksburg. You can speak to Mark in their service department.

[Underachiever]

1 hour ago, Steven421 said:

I've only received good service from CycleLab in Boksburg. You can speak to Mark in their service department.

Or Finish Line Cycles in Kempton...