RockCoach Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 In my opinion, the stem should be used to fine tune your reach / ett measurement, which is why I generally suggest stem lengths of between 35mm & 70mm as that (35mm range) is normally the difference in size between 2 frames. Bar width should be used to fine tune your desired steering response. Wider = slower but more precise and easier to manhandle. Narrower = faster but more twitchy, less precise. Bar rise should be used to fine tune your desired stack height. If ou use stem spacers to do this, it automatically reduces the reach at the same time, which isn't desirable. All these things work together, of course, so it's best to find the option that works best for you - as Skollie says. My stock standard response is to get a frame that is big enough to allow as short a stem length as possible. IMO, of course. Wide bar = slow steeringNarrow bar = fast steeringLong stem = slow steeringShort stem = fast steering Narrow bar + short stem = twitchy as hellNarrow bar + long stem = stable in a straight line (road bike)Wide bar + long stem = driving a slow busWide bar + short stem = Stems have more impact on the direct feeling and steering speed than bars. Wide bars provide more control than narrow which is why they have become a great combination for most gravity riders.
Reden Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Wide bar = slow steeringNarrow bar = fast steeringLong stem = slow steeringShort stem = fast steering Narrow bar + short stem = twitchy as hellNarrow bar + long stem = stable in a straight line (road bike)Wide bar + long stem = driving a slow busWide bar + short stem = Stems have more impact on the direct feeling and steering speed than bars. Wide bars provide more control than narrow which is why they have become a great combination for most gravity riders.Wide bar + short stem + rocks = Would not fit. That them 620mm's. Now I use 720mm.
Headshot Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Just been told on FB I should shorten my bars by 10cm - to 685 mm to avoid klapping them on a narrow footbridge... riding like its 1989!
igg Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Just been told on FB I should shorten my bars by 10cm - to 685 mm to avoid klapping them on a narrow footbridge... riding like its 1989!Just manual across! On a side note, do any of you find some tree gaps to be scary as hell with wide bars? I've got a few on my local trails where there's barely a thumbs width between my bars and the tree. It's just asking for a wipe if I go through these any faster than walking pace.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Just been told on FB I should shorten my bars by 10cm - to 685 mm to avoid klapping them on a narrow footbridge... riding like its 1989!BAHAHAHAHAHA! Wheelie all the things.
droenn Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Ive got 740 and 760 on my two bikes, and even that small jump I notice the difference... I tend to scrape my knuckles on trees and look awkward going through gates with the latter and its just 10mm either side. Not sure I want to go too much wider, even if it had other advantages
RiverInTheRoad Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Just manual across! On a side note, do any of you find some tree gaps to be scary as hell with wide bars? I've got a few on my local trails where there's barely a thumbs width between my bars and the tree. It's just asking for a wipe if I go through these any faster than walking pace.remove your bar-ends
RiverInTheRoad Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Suppose my 740mm bar with 50mm stem would be frowned upon.....Works for me though.I have a 750mm 40mm combo on my jump bike. So its fine
cpelser Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 I'm in a little bit of a pickle.Bought a Large Turner Czar frame (I'm1.83cm) Riding a 760mm and bought a 45mm Ritchey stem that I never fitted, as I used my wife's 60mm and felt a bit cramped on the bike. Bought a 70mm stem and still feels a bit cramped. Probably going to give someone an awesome deal on my new Ritchey stem then
RockCoach Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 800mm with 50mm and I don't even remember when I last caught the bars on a tree. Modern trailbuilders tend to build properly wide trails these days. If it's tight you learn to flick your bars through without thinking about it. Really small spaces like Emmerentia gates I lean the bike over and swivel the bars through.
NotSoBigBen Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 That's from 720 bars ..... Not the bars so much as just getting too blerrie WINDGAT for my own good ????
BrandonF_ Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 That's from 720 bars ..... Not the bars so much as just getting too blerrie WINDGAT for my own good ???? 20160901_141845.jpgIs that a...Ballas ba.., sorry, Balance band ???????????? ?????????
NotSoBigBen Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Is that a...Ballas ba.., sorry, Balance band ???????????? ?????????Fokus my kind! Its a TDF bead bracelet from The Bead Company .... Some charity thing my wife tells me Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk
BrandonF_ Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Fokus my kind! Its a TDF bead bracelet from The Bead Company .... Some charity thing my wife tells me Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk...Oooh, sorrie pappa,...I just saw (balance),..and the lack thereof..????????????????
Eldron Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 How do you guys ride wide bars safely? I run the "standard" XCM set up 680x100 and have bashed more plugs out than I care to remember!!!
Patchelicious Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 You guys mention these dimensions for trail... What about a Dirt Roadie like me who does just marathon type stuff? What would the estimated bar width and stem be that I should look for? Taking into account that I worried about control than "flickability"
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