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Batmann2

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Why, exactly, does stantion damage=a new fork?

for a cheap fork it costs nearly as much as A new fork i.e. basic 32 /reba/recon 

 

 

For A WC sid / fit4 kashima 32 getting uppers will be very expensive but should still be around half what A new fork would cost

Edited by BaGearA
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Not from a cost perspective. What, exactly, is the problem with using a fork that has damaged stantions?

Bad performance 

Seals wear out quicker 

Eventually lower oil will start leaking very bad

Your stanchions could actually wear through if the bushes don't come out first.

 

 

In A nut shell is you keep it clean and look after it a worn fork could still go A good while with decent performance , but it has to be addresed sometime

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Yes i dont see why I will repaif this. thanks for all the feedback.it has the origianl fox oil in. Althouth i service the bike. Did not do so for the fork. It had play in the stanchions from the day i had the bike. Then took it in for warrenty repair and went downhill from there on. I will ride it till no more. And will invest in a new one. The only question is . Will it be fox or rockshox

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Yes i dont see why I will repaif this. thanks for all the feedback.it has the origianl fox oil in. Althouth i service the bike. Did not do so for the fork. It had play in the stanchions from the day i had the bike. Then took it in for warrenty repair and went downhill from there on. I will ride it till no more. And will invest in a new one. The only question is . Will it be fox or rockshox

From what I've heard is that Rockshox are cheaper to maintain service wise. That's what I understood when I spoke to my LBS.

 

BUT, don't take my word for it, the gurus on this here site will have to tell us which one will be the best/cheapest in maintaining and service.

Edited by BSG
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One trick is to put spacers in to reduce the travel, so the seals contact a different part of the stanchion and the worn bit is hidden inside.

 

I agree it's not worth the repair - buy a new fork on special from overseas.

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Those seals are the old 'press in' ones which haven't been available from Fox for about two years now.  If you've serviced the fork and not replaced the seals then you're just wasting your time.  If you've not serviced the fork then that's obviously the reason for the damage - this is not a Fox specific problem, it happens to all forks that are neglected and not serviced.  

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I'm trying to learn about forks. Please explain how a scuff mark like that will affect performance to the extent that it has to be replaced. I can understand if there are deep gouges, but that looks as if the coating is worn off.

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I'm trying to learn about forks. Please explain how a scuff mark like that will affect performance to the extent that it has to be replaced. I can understand if there are deep gouges, but that looks as if the coating is worn off.

post-46013-0-79256400-1502299607_thumb.png

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Sheez those seals look really dry, also alot of crud in the grease.

 

When was the last time you serviced the lowers? Do you use appropriate grease for the wipers? Do you wash the wipers with a pressure washer?

 

My fork's seals still look fresh after 6 months even up to a year.

 had a service about a year ago.. guess i will have to look after them extra careful. did use a pressure washer once or so, but now i hand wash. this was the first time i serviced my fork my self, the rest was Bike shops.

There is only Oil in the fork and no grease,  the crud is a mixture of oil and dirt,

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From what I've heard is that Rockshox are cheaper to maintain service wise. That's what I understood when I spoke to my LBS.

 

BUT, don't take my word for it, the gurus on this here site will have to tell us which one will be the best/cheapest in maintaining and service.

 

Rockshox is way cheaper to maintain, and does not require services as frequently as Fox.

You can get seal kits from Robbies Bicycle Concepts for Fox and Rockshox for a lot cheaper than the official seals, plan to get some for my service coming up.

 

Also, I own Rockshox, Marzocchi, Manitou and Fox forks, They are all almost equally easy to service. Just the Damper service that I will leave to the pro's. Buy some fork oil from a motor cycle shop, I generally use Motul, usually about R200 for a liter, download the service manual, and service it yourself.

 

And rather service your fork more rather than less frequently. My one Marzocchi is a 2005 model, with zero wear on the stanchions. If you take  care of your fork, it will give you years of service

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Rockshox is way cheaper to maintain, and does not require services as frequently as Fox.

You can get seal kits from Robbies Bicycle Concepts for Fox and Rockshox for a lot cheaper than the official seals, plan to get some for my service coming up.

 

Also, I own Rockshox, Marzocchi, Manitou and Fox forks, They are all almost equally easy to service. Just the Damper service that I will leave to the pro's. Buy some fork oil from a motor cycle shop, I generally use Motul, usually about R200 for a liter, download the service manual, and service it yourself.

 

And rather service your fork more rather than less frequently. My one Marzocchi is a 2005 model, with zero wear on the stanchions. If you take  care of your fork, it will give you years of service

cool will check them out on line.

yea now that i know how to service the fork my self, i will do it more often,

 I use the Belray brand oil. works just as good, only thing i need now id the fox float Fluid,

but seen someone say one can use  85w140 oil. but i need to check up on that

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I see some myths to clear up here, so...

 

1. Stanchion replacement will set you back less than half the price of a new fork - around R 6 500. Whether or not it's worth it depends on which variant of the fork you have - if it's a CTD Evolution, throw it in the bin and get a Reba. If anything else, just get the stanchions done.

 

2. The only thing that'll prevent this is proper maintenance. Fox forks need to be rebuilt every 100 hours. The end. Stanchion lube, turning your bike upside down, or anything that doesn't involve changing oil and seals is basically putting lipstick on a pig. Seals keep the outside world out, and when they wear out they need replacing. The lubrication in a fork comes from inside, and nothing you apply from the outside will make any difference.

 

As to your question about Float fluid - just use the proper stuff. We sell it for R 10 a sachet, which is enough for an air spring. No need to buy the big bottle, it'll last the average home mechanic several lifetimes.

 

Seals - SKF, U2NR and Push are all available if you don't want to go the OEM route, and if you're doing the servicing yourself all the manuals are available online. You'll need a few tools, but the kit will cost you less than a full service, so if you're confident enough and have a clean place to work it's worth the investment.

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cool will check them out on line.

yea now that i know how to service the fork my self, i will do it more often,

 I use the Belray brand oil. works just as good, only thing i need now id the fox float Fluid,

but seen someone say one can use  85w140 oil. but i need to check up on that

Step by step with pics on servicing Fox forks http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/1.0_Fork_Disassembly.htm

 

Oil volumes and which type of oil where http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/oil_volumes.htm

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I see some myths to clear up here, so...

 

1. Stanchion replacement will set you back less than half the price of a new fork - around R 6 500. Whether or not it's worth it depends on which variant of the fork you have - if it's a CTD Evolution, throw it in the bin and get a Reba. If anything else, just get the stanchions done.

 

2. The only thing that'll prevent this is proper maintenance. Fox forks need to be rebuilt every 100 hours. The end. Stanchion lube, turning your bike upside down, or anything that doesn't involve changing oil and seals is basically putting lipstick on a pig. Seals keep the outside world out, and when they wear out they need replacing. The lubrication in a fork comes from inside, and nothing you apply from the outside will make any difference.

 

As to your question about Float fluid - just use the proper stuff. We sell it for R 10 a sachet, which is enough for an air spring. No need to buy the big bottle, it'll last the average home mechanic several lifetimes.

 

Seals - SKF, U2NR and Push are all available if you don't want to go the OEM route, and if you're doing the servicing yourself all the manuals are available online. You'll need a few tools, but the kit will cost you less than a full service, so if you're confident enough and have a clean place to work it's worth the investment.

 

^^^ Where my MTB goes to get some love 

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