How to solder shifter cable ends?

[Skylark]

Soldering shifter cable ends means you can pull them out of the housing and refit them without to much hassle, ie no fraying end. I've tried a few times now, solder won't stick to the cable(stainless steel shift cable), I even when and got acid core solder hoping the strong acid core flux would help but it didn't, also tried running the soldering iron at max temp which also made no difference.

 

What's the trick to this black magic?

[the nerd]

small blow torch...

[Mongoose!]

heard super glue does also the trick - never tried it

once tried to solder also, with no luck - experienced same problem as you mentioned

[CdT85]

Soldering shifter cable ends means you can pull them out of the housing and refit them without to much hassle, ie no fraying end. I've tried a few times now, solder won't stick to the cable(stainless steel shift cable), I even when and got acid core solder hoping the strong acid core flux would help but it didn't, also tried running the soldering iron at max temp which also made no difference.

 

What's the trick to this black magic?

 

Stainless steel is a very poor conductor of heat. thus you need a blowtorch to heat it up high enough. also would suggest using flux and silver solder rather than conventional tin soldering

[Grebel]

Soldering shifter cable ends means you can pull them out of the housing and refit them without to much hassle, ie no fraying end. I've tried a few times now, solder won't stick to the cable(stainless steel shift cable), I even when and got acid core solder hoping the strong acid core flux would help but it didn't, also tried running the soldering iron at max temp which also made no difference.

 

What's the trick to this black magic?

 

Try silver solder but you'll need special flux and a small torch

[porqui]

Simple - clean cable end in thinners and when dry dip tip in a bit of epoxy adhesive and let dry.

[Yusran]

Soldering shifter cable ends means you can pull them out of the housing and refit them without to much hassle, ie no fraying end. I've tried a few times now, solder won't stick to the cable(stainless steel shift cable), I even when and got acid core solder hoping the strong acid core flux would help but it didn't, also tried running the soldering iron at max temp which also made no difference.

 

What's the trick to this black magic?

 

I tried using a soldering iron and solder before... no luck whatsoever. It doesn't help that the cables seem to have a plastic coating of sorts.

 

Eventually pulled out the propane torch and heated the cable end to a glowing red, and used a brazing rod and flux to keep it all together. Neatened up any blobbing on the bench grinder. 5 minute job in total.

 

I must add that I have done this to 2 sets of cables - 1 set that is on my bike, and a spare set cut to the same length. A year later, I've rebuilt/serviced my bike more than a few times and I'm still using the first set of cables. Each time they come out they get a wipe, some lube and go back in. No need to replace them if they don't fray away.

[Hairy]

heard super glue does also the trick - never tried it

once tried to solder also, with no luck - experienced same problem as you mentioned

had to at a pinch recycle a cable late at night with a new housing.... the super glue on the cable end did the trick!

[Sepia]

As Otero says, use a small blowtorch (think creme brulee) and cored solder does not work too lekker without more flux (a lot more).  

Worked for me.

 

Edit:  I see Yusran also has it down pat.

[Hairy]

I tried using a soldering iron and solder before... no luck whatsoever. It doesn't help that the cables seem to have a plastic coating of sorts.

 

Eventually pulled out the propane torch and heated the cable end to a glowing red, and used a brazing rod and flux to keep it all together. Neatened up any blobbing on the bench grinder. 5 minute job in total.

 

I must add that I have done this to 2 sets of cables - 1 set that is on my bike, and a spare set cut to the same length. A year later, I've rebuilt/serviced my bike more than a few times and I'm still using the first set of cables. Each time they come out they get a wipe, some lube and go back in. No need to replace them if they don't fray away.

in that case the 5min spent was worth every second of your time!

[Yusran]

I've made a DIY spot welder so might try that out aswell, if my brazed cables ever need to be replaced

 

I tried using a soldering iron and solder before... no luck whatsoever. It doesn't help that the cables seem to have a plastic coating of sorts.

 

Eventually pulled out the propane torch and heated the cable end to a glowing red, and used a brazing rod and flux to keep it all together. Neatened up any blobbing on the bench grinder. 5 minute job in total.

 

I must add that I have done this to 2 sets of cables - 1 set that is on my bike, and a spare set cut to the same length. A year later, I've rebuilt/serviced my bike more than a few times and I'm still using the first set of cables. Each time they come out they get a wipe, some lube and go back in. No need to replace them if they don't fray away.

[Weimaraner1]

I've made a DIY spot welder so might try that out aswell, if my brazed cables ever need to be replaced

I believe a microwave magneto makes a great little diy spot welder

[Skylark]

I tried using a soldering iron and solder before... no luck whatsoever. It doesn't help that the cables seem to have a plastic coating of sorts.

 

Eventually pulled out the propane torch and heated the cable end to a glowing red, and used a brazing rod and flux to keep it all together. Neatened up any blobbing on the bench grinder. 5 minute job in total.

 

I must add that I have done this to 2 sets of cables - 1 set that is on my bike, and a spare set cut to the same length. A year later, I've rebuilt/serviced my bike more than a few times and I'm still using the first set of cables. Each time they come out they get a wipe, some lube and go back in. No need to replace them if they don't fray away.

 

I tried using a soldering iron and solder before... no luck whatsoever. It doesn't help that the cables seem to have a plastic coating of sorts.

 

Eventually pulled out the propane torch and heated the cable end to a glowing red, and used a brazing rod and flux to keep it all together. Neatened up any blobbing on the bench grinder. 5 minute job in total.

 

I must add that I have done this to 2 sets of cables - 1 set that is on my bike, and a spare set cut to the same length. A year later, I've rebuilt/serviced my bike more than a few times and I'm still using the first set of cables. Each time they come out they get a wipe, some lube and go back in. No need to replace them if they don't fray away.

 

I have a mini blowtorch, that's what I tried but with a soldering tip on the end.

What type of brazing rod/flux do I need?

As Otero says, use a small blowtorch (think creme brulee) and cored solder does not work too lekker without more flux (a lot more).  

Worked for me.

 

Edit:  I see Yusran also has it down pat.

Plumbers type solder and flux?

[Yusran]

I have a mini blowtorch, that's what I tried but with a soldering tip on the end.

What type of brazing rod/flux do I need?

Plumbers type solder and flux?

 

 

I haven't tried the plumbers type lead-free solder and flux, so I can't say that it will work but I also don't see why it shouldn't if it will solder copper pipe together. Just make sure to burn all the coating off of the cable first.

 

The stuff I used was brazing rods and flux, the same stuff I used to replace sections of my old Toyota Corolla's roof. It's as old as I can remember, so highly doubt the stuff still costs R10.99

 

 

However, you won't regret this little hack. It will save you trouble in the workshop and out on the road should anything go wrong.

 

 

 

(PS: I pulled an all-nighter so apologies if my post doesn't make sense)

[Skylark]

I've seen pots of flux at the hardware store, I'll ask them about the brazing rods aswell, I suppose you need low melt point rods because a blow torch doesn't get nearly as hot as Oxy-cetylene/PortaPack?

[V12man]

TIG welder - no filler - I dont bother but I have tried it and it works well