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Flats for MTB


Spirog

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Posted

I started on flats then went to cleats. My bike was recently in for repairs and I used our spare bike with flats. I was way more confident on the flats.

 

I have had a fusion of my L5/S1 joint so I am always cautious when things get technical. I found the flats just boosted my confidence no end.

Posted

Started riding clipless in 2000. Never confident on the downs. Took a chance on flats in 2016. WIll NOT GO BACK TO CLIPS. The crank bros mallets i had on the mtb is now on my road bike...

Posted

My 2 cents:

 

I've gone through 3 stages of MTB pedal choice:

1. I started with flats, because I was scared of falling while being clipped to my bike

2. I switched to cleats, because I started riding longer distances and became more confident on the bike in general

3. I switched back to flats because I wanted to become a better rider. eg: learning to wheelie/manual while clipped in is not fun. You can approach technical sections more relaxed and you learn to use your bodyweight correctly. It forces you to drive you weight through your bottom bracket/crank. Heavy feet and light hands are key to developing good skills. 

 

Point 3 was a few years ago and I still ride in flats - and I always will I suspect. It made me a much better rider, but there is no doubt that pedalling efficiency is slightly better when clipped in.

 

If it were me in your shoes (so to speak) I'd probably be clipped in. But that's because I'm comfortable being clipped in and I'm not that fit, so want every bit of efficiency I can get on a multi-day race.

 

So that's the trade off in my opinion. Skill development vs efficiency. If there wasn't a tradeoff, then everybody would all be doing one or the other.  

 

Ditto  :thumbup:

 

Or start with flats and stick with it until your form is perfect and you have honed your skills to a machine-like quality and feel that the only way to improve your efficiency further would be to move back to cleats.

Posted

I ride flats 99% of the time but I do have clips and shoes. The difference is not the whole ‘pulling On the up’ but the shoes themselves. My Giros super stiff bit have those large lugs that are meant to help walking on rocks, roots etc (they are pretty poor at that) but they do transfer power really well. My 5/10s how ever are pretty soft and i’d hate to ride more than 30 - 49kms in them. There must be some inbetween shoes for flats that have a stiffer sole. I had some Mr Minn DH 5/10s that we’re much stiffer and really good except each shoe weighed about 1kg.

Posted

I ride flats 99% of the time but I do have clips and shoes. The difference is not the whole ‘pulling On the up’ but the shoes themselves. My Giros super stiff bit have those large lugs that are meant to help walking on rocks, roots etc (they are pretty poor at that) but they do transfer power really well. My 5/10s how ever are pretty soft and i’d hate to ride more than 30 - 49kms in them. There must be some inbetween shoes for flats that have a stiffer sole. I had some Mr Minn DH 5/10s that we’re much stiffer and really good except each shoe weighed about 1kg.

That's why I like pedals with a large platform. Sole stiffness is less of a worry, then. Still required, but not really as important as with cleats. 

Posted

I ride flats 99% of the time but I do have clips and shoes. The difference is not the whole ‘pulling On the up’ but the shoes themselves. My Giros super stiff bit have those large lugs that are meant to help walking on rocks, roots etc (they are pretty poor at that) but they do transfer power really well. My 5/10s how ever are pretty soft and i’d hate to ride more than 30 - 49kms in them. There must be some inbetween shoes for flats that have a stiffer sole. I had some Mr Minn DH 5/10s that we’re much stiffer and really good except each shoe weighed about 1kg.

Just took the plunge and got Spez 2FO 2.0 flats. A more rigid base than older 5/10 impacts (2nd pair of givers) without losing the feel of the pedal. Surprisingly prefer the grip on the 2FOs as well. (Pedals Spank Spoons)

Posted

I ride flats 99% of the time but I do have clips and shoes. The difference is not the whole ‘pulling On the up’ but the shoes themselves. My Giros super stiff bit have those large lugs that are meant to help walking on rocks, roots etc (they are pretty poor at that) but they do transfer power really well. My 5/10s how ever are pretty soft and i’d hate to ride more than 30 - 49kms in them. There must be some inbetween shoes for flats that have a stiffer sole. I had some Mr Minn DH 5/10s that we’re much stiffer and really good except each shoe weighed about 1kg.

There is always the option to go for something like the Five Ten models with the option to attach cleats, but come with the rubber sole cover over the cleat attachment (like Maltese Falcons). They tend to be more on the stiffer sole side than plain flats but still more comfy to walk in and tacky enough for a secure grip on flats than the stiff cleat-specific shoes.

 

And then you'll have the added option to attach cleats should you change back in the future.

Posted

I agree with the general consensus of flats and the right shoes. Giant have very nice inexpensive flats that works great (sealed bearings) and you can buy FiveTens or if money is the issue you can check out DC Shoe's chunky skate shoes (I use an old pair and it's awesome).

 

Flats rule no matter who says what.. but each to their own.

 

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/za/original-mtb-sport-platform-pedals-9-16-axle

 

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/za/pinner-dh-flat-pedals

Posted

flats

 

i started off with clipless... then got some flats so that I could learn how to bunnyhop the "right" way.  then came a time where i'd change pedals and shoes based on the technicality of the route that I was riding which became way too cumbersome, so now i ride with flats always on my mtb.  Transbaviaans, joburg2c, enduro races, the odd downhill track and i won't be converting back any time soon.  you lose marginal power on sprints and when you pedal out of the saddle, but I'm able to push out the same power numbers on my MTB fitted with flats than I get on my roadbike (I've got stages cranks on both), so the whole argument of "more effective pedal stroke" isn't really something to worry about.

Posted

I'd go the V12's over the V8s. Slightly more but replaceable pins and I think they are a lot better. On sale for R500 at Chain Reaction. 

Agree that I would also opt for the V12s if given the choice but they won't come out as value for money from CRC...at GBP36+shipping+VAT+handling fees, I imagine you're looking at closer to R1200 landed at current exchange rates

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