Ruru Posted November 20, 2018 Share Hi all Recently went tubeless with Maxxis Ikon TR EXO 27.5. About the third ride on single track I got a scratch against the sidewall from a branch. Caused two small holes in the side wall that didn’t seal so I had to put in a tube. Sealant replaced and smallest hole next to the rim plugged. The hole sort of centre on the side wall didn’t want to seal so I plugged it. Still a bit of a leak, but better. I read somewhere about other riders complaining about weak side walls on Ikon (riders with 27.5) but others saying it great (29 tyres). Was wondering if there could be a real difference between 27 and 29 batches. Also the casing popping out further than the tread is a bit of a worry to me. Started out really great with this tubeless thing i.e. bike feels lighter, but tyre is same as the wire bead I had before - Ikon 27.5 x 2.2 but now it feels like I would have been better of going with 60tpi. A bit disappointed in these R500+ fancy tyres. Next time I’ll buy Ardent of Chaoyang.. What was your experience? Was it a dud of just bad luck/riding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruru Posted November 20, 2018 Share Issue is with the rear tyre. My weight is 88kg, riding hard tail bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V18 Posted November 20, 2018 Share Ikon is a kind if win or flat tyre. Light enough to race but unless you are super careful with wheel placement (esp on HT) you will cut the flimsy thing up. I weigh quite a bit myself and learnt with extensive school fees that the one part on you bike that should never be skimped on is your tyre casing. As for the casing bulging out further than the tread. Meh. The side wall should be able to shrug off a twig/rock. Heavy tyre casings don't necessarily mean slow rolling. Have a look at the spez slaughter with grid casing. Or even the maxxis minion SS with dd casing. Or the schwalbe rock razor with SG casing. Don't forget e13 SS. For the front gooi something beefy but not necessarily a heavy casing. Sounds like you'd enjoy the onza citius or the spez butcher. Ignore the weights for now and stop doing trailside repairs. It ruins the outing completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted November 20, 2018 Share Ikon is a kind if win or flat tyre. Light enough to race but unless you are super careful with wheel placement (esp on HT) you will cut the flimsy thing up. I weigh quite a bit myself and learnt with extensive school fees that the one part on you bike that should never be skimped on is your tyre casing. As for the casing bulging out further than the tread. Meh. The side wall should be able to shrug off a twig/rock. Heavy tyre casings don't necessarily mean slow rolling. Have a look at the spez slaughter with grid casing. Or even the maxxis minion SS with dd casing. Or the schwalbe rock razor with SG casing. Don't forget e13 SS. For the front gooi something beefy but not necessarily a heavy casing. Sounds like you'd enjoy the onza citius or the spez butcher. Ignore the weights for now and stop doing trailside repairs. It ruins the outing completely.holy feck, a coherent, logical post. WHO ARE YOU!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matchstix Posted November 20, 2018 Share Ikon is a kind if win or flat tyre. Light enough to race but unless you are super careful with wheel placement (esp on HT) you will cut the flimsy thing up. I weigh quite a bit myself and learnt with extensive school fees that the one part on you bike that should never be skimped on is your tyre casing. As for the casing bulging out further than the tread. Meh. The side wall should be able to shrug off a twig/rock. Heavy tyre casings don't necessarily mean slow rolling. Have a look at the spez slaughter with grid casing. Or even the maxxis minion SS with dd casing. Or the schwalbe rock razor with SG casing. Don't forget e13 SS. For the front gooi something beefy but not necessarily a heavy casing. Sounds like you'd enjoy the onza citius or the spez butcher. Ignore the weights for now and stop doing trailside repairs. It ruins the outing completely. Yes but when it comes to wheels you break almost anything. Nothing wrong with icon. Just don't ride to soft pressures on your tires and go for the 2.35 if you can fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasilvarsa Posted November 20, 2018 Share From experience Icon cuts easy Ardent Race is Better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted November 20, 2018 Share So does this mean an Ikon Exo casing is not quite the same as say an Ardent or DHR Exo, because those are pretty tough...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadbod Racing Posted November 20, 2018 Share Yes but when it comes to wheels you break almost anything. Nothing wrong with icon. Just don't ride to soft pressures on your tires and go for the 2.35 if you can fit. I'm currently running the Ikon 29er 2.25 I'm going to be checking which tire pressure works for me, after the tubeless I rode at about 1.8 bar. I'm going to test out running at 2 bar. Which tire pressure has worked for you on the Ikons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted November 20, 2018 Share I’m not a big fan of the Maxcos tyres but I did have them on my MTB for awhile as they are well priced and offer excellent grip. I never found them to be fragile and punished them at Attakwas and wines2whales plus all the training inbetween. Not one cut or puncture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruru Posted November 20, 2018 Share Ikon is a kind if win or flat tyre. Light enough to race but unless you are super careful with wheel placement (esp on HT) you will cut the flimsy thing up. I weigh quite a bit myself and learnt with extensive school fees that the one part on you bike that should never be skimped on is your tyre casing. As for the casing bulging out further than the tread. Meh. The side wall should be able to shrug off a twig/rock. Heavy tyre casings don't necessarily mean slow rolling. Have a look at the spez slaughter with grid casing. Or even the maxxis minion SS with dd casing. Or the schwalbe rock razor with SG casing. Don't forget e13 SS. For the front gooi something beefy but not necessarily a heavy casing. Sounds like you'd enjoy the onza citius or the spez butcher. Ignore the weights for now and stop doing trailside repairs. It ruins the outing completely.Thanks alot for the feedback. I ride gravel, a bit of tar and forest roads as well as single track so I didn’t want to go for something to aggressive. Also do K2C with this bike. Only have 100mm travel on my bike and entry level spec brakes so not bomming it DH. Whats your opinion on Ardent? Will have a look at the options you mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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