usxorf Posted February 28, 2019 Share If you use a tube to seat the tire (bead properly seated), then break the one side and remove the tube, it might then be easier to seat with the sealant and valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin PJ Posted February 28, 2019 Share If you use a tube to seat the tire (bead properly seated), then break the one side and remove the tube, it might then be easier to seat with the sealant and valve.Someone told me that leaving the new tire overnight with a tube inflated makes it easier to seat. It did work when I tried it. I have a compressor now and I reckon it could seat anything if you remove valve core first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sepia Posted February 28, 2019 Share I have a compressor now and I reckon it could seat anything if you remove valve core first.Wanna bet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanievb Posted February 28, 2019 Share I have the T-shirt I might be wrong, but don't you have a valet bill as well. or am I mistaking you with another hubber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin PJ Posted February 28, 2019 Share Wanna bet?No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted February 28, 2019 Share Finally got around to doing the tubeless conversion on my SCOTT. Took the time to do the job slowly and take lots of photos .... DISCLAIMER - I may just go a bit overboard here, going into detail for those new to the game. So the more experienced, please scroll past the slow stuff .... Make sure you have the parts and tools for the job, ie:- Tubeless valve - R75 to R95 ea- Gorilla tape - R115 a roll, good for 2 to 4 rims- Sludge - R75 to R95 per 200ml bottle, best to use one bottle per tire. Remember to top up with about 50ml every 3 to 6 months, depending on how much you ride- Valve core removal tool - I enjoy aluminium tool, though the tip of the Sludge bottle does the job ... did I mention I buy too many tools ...- two tire levers- earbud - syringe- soapy water and a brush EDIT - you will note I used a couple of extra tools as the project unfolded ... Mount the bike and remove the tire Place the tire on your working surface, making sure to NOT knock the brake disc. I prefer putting the metal parts on a rag .... Time to let the air out the tube Debead the tire from the rim Continue de-beading it all the way around the rim, turn over the rim and do the same on the other side (remember to be careful of the brake disc) Now use the tire levers to remove the tire from the rim. Use the first lever to flip the first part over the rim, hooking the edge of the lever under a spoke. (when done correctly there is almost no tension on the lever) Now make sure the tire is properly debeaded on the far side, then the second lever will work so much easier, after which it is very easy to slip the tire off the rim Remove the valve nut, pull the valve into the tire, and remove the tube from the wheel And after all this you are now ready to START with the tubeless conversion So happens that the rims of the SCOTT Spark 940 X25S rims are already tubeless ready, with an existing layer of rim tape - I proceeded with a single layer of rim tape (on rims with no tape I would use a double layer of rim tape). Start a few spokes before the valve hole, then do a complete layer of tape and go past the valve hole for another couple of spokes. Hold the tape down with your thumb while stretching the tape to seat into the bottom of the rim-curvature, rub the tape with your fingers to seat properly Lap the tape over the valve hole for a few spoke You have now effectively closed the valve hole. Make a small cross cut with a sharp knife, then use a small screw driver followed by a larger phillips screw driver to ream the hole Time to fit the valve But that little nut needs to be tightened with a long nose pliers. To protect your rim you may want to put down a layer of tape You can either remove the valve core with the snazzy aluminium tool, or with the tip from the Sludge bottle Time to fit the tire to the rim. PLEASE remember to search a directional marker on the tire You can now also allign the wording on the tire to the valve .... Time to "bead" the tubeless tire. From this point I prefer to hang the tire, and find using a jig makes the job so much easier for the following steps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted February 28, 2019 Share With the tire on the rim we can proceed with beading it. I find using a soapy solution helps the tire to seat more evenly during the beading process. This is not about volumes of water, but rather about the soapy layer. Time to emulate grandpa with his shaving routine from the days before shaving cream .... take a brush wet with a soapy solution and lather it on a hard surface to create a lot of soap, then paint this onto the edge of the tire all along the rim For beading the tire the valve core was removed earlier, to allow a large volume of air to enter the rim quickly. Even so, you need something that can supply such a large volume quick enough .... I have adapted this compressor nozzle for this very purpose. NOTE - the compressor regular is set to 3bar, to protect the tire !! High pressure air is extremely dangerous !! Slip the rubber hose over the valve, and inflate the tire While I get the tools and parts ready for the next step I leave the tire under pressure, yes the air is escaping, but the tire stays in shape, and the bead stays in place It is now time to add the Sludge. A syringe works perfectly for this, especially this double tipped syringe that goes over and into the valve body Start adding the Sludge into the syringe. For this project I used 150ml into the one tire, thus about two full syringes.Note - it works better when the valve is at the 5-o-clock position as shown .. dont have the valve at the very bottom ...EDIT - remember to SHAKE the bottle of Sludge, the particulates must mix properly before you put it into the syringe Even with this nice syringe a bit of Sludge may end up on the threads of the valve body. Thus I use an earbud to clean the inside Okay, time to take a step back and look at the progress - you now have a tubeless tire on a tubeless rim, with the Sludge in the tire .... BUT, no valve fitted and thus a tire that CAN debead when you look at it sideways ... THIS is where this rig comes to its right, the rim is held firmly in place, and nothing presses against the tire, thus helping a LOT to keep it beaded. Time to finally bead the tire, and then to fit the valve. For this round I could also use my compressor, but for completeness of this write-up I will use the air-tank approach. Valve core OUT, I connect the floor pump to the valve body. Set the floor pump to charge the air tank. Pump up the air tank, then flick the air tank switch and pump up the tire in an instant The tire was at about 0,5bar pressure .. Now you need to have 3 hands and be ready for the next steps ... remove the pump from the valve, and put your finger over the valve to keep the tire under low pressure, insert the valve core and hand tighten Only use the valve tool after hand tightening the valve. DONT cross thread it by using tools ... Job DONE ! Now inflate the tire to about three bar - AFTER checking the maximum pressure of your tire and rim !! The last step - shake and rotate the tire, again and again, and then some more ... make sure the sealant coats ALL surfaces on the inside of the tire and rim .... Go have a cold one, then come shake and rotate that tire some more .... The VERY last step - fit the tire in the bike, and deflate to your riding pressure EDIT - this little write up took twice as long as the slow tubeless conversion ... EDIT 2 - did the rear wheel in 25 minutes, no time spent on taking photos though ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FDP Posted March 1, 2019 Share Excellent write-up Chris. The only thing I do differently is to burn a hole in the tape for the valve. I find that cutting a cross and pushing the valve through sometimes “pull” the tape and might lift it a bit. I heat a metal pin (pop rivit, etc.) with a flame and push it right through the tape. Then sideways to enlarge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieterJvR Posted March 1, 2019 Share As far as i am concerned I would not think so. I just want to get this one tyre sealed.Damn, it is proving problematic. Next step, heat gun on the side walls. What is the problem, is the bead not staying seated when you inflate the tire? If so, I had this with an Ardent a few years ago, in the end I left the tyre in the sun for a few hours (on both sides) to make the rubber more pliable, then did the soapy thing and inflated without sealant with a air tank type pump, added sealant through the valve core and inflated again with air tank to 2.6 bar just to make double sure. Bounced the tire around, shook it and then left it on either side in the bathroom for a few hours at a time (didn't trust the rim and tyre in any other room) That seemed to do the trick, and ironically only had the issue initially when the tyre was new. And only with this one Ardent. Edit: Added pressure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave303e Posted March 1, 2019 Share Found the photo of why never to go more than 2,5bar to seat tubeless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieterJvR Posted March 1, 2019 Share I've replaced a few valve cores over the years because they get clogged with sealant, so what I do now when topping up sealant is I put a bit of vaseline on the valve core before putting it back into the valve. No more clogged valve cores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sepia Posted March 1, 2019 Share What is the problem, is the bead not staying seated when you inflate the tire? If so, I had this with an Ardent a few years ago, in the end I left the tyre in the sun for a few hours (on both sides) to make the rubber more pliable, then did the soapy thing and inflated without sealant with a air tank type pump, added sealant through the valve core and inflated again with air tank to 2.6 bar just to make double sure. Bounced the tire around, shook it and then left it on either side in the bathroom for a few hours at a time (didn't trust the rim and tyre in any other room) That seemed to do the trick, and ironically only had the issue initially when the tyre was new. And only with this one Ardent. Edit: Added pressureContinental Mud King 1.8 on Kore or WTB 21mm rim. Seated previously but changed tires.Now I want to use it but it will not seat. Tried all the above as I always do. The only stuff that ever seated this tire was Stans. The problem is the bead does not fit snug enough against the rim, Sidewalls are tough and air just flows out, no matter what. I did seat it previously using duct tape around the rim for the initial boost after using a heat gun on the side walls. Had no problem after that. Naturally I used, soapy water, compressor, initial tube fitting, strapping, with and without valve core etc, etc....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieterJvR Posted March 1, 2019 Share Continental Mud King 1.8 on Kore or WTB 21mm rim. Seated previously but changed tires.Now I want to use it but it will not seat. Tried all the above as I always do. The only stuff that ever seated this tire was Stans. The problem is the bead does not fit snug enough against the rim, Sidewalls are tough and air just flows out, no matter what. I did seat it previously using duct tape around the rim for the initial boost after using a heat gun on the side walls. Had no problem after that. Naturally I used, soapy water, compressor, initial tube fitting, strapping, with and without valve core etc, etc....... Then I am out of ideas, like you said maybe the heat gun will do the trick (unless you already tried that), and perhaps different sealant. Good luck, let us know if you come right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOCO4360 Posted March 1, 2019 Share As far as i am concerned I would not think so. I just want to get this one tyre sealed.Damn, it is proving problematic. Next step, heat gun on the side walls.If you are struggling to get seated (I really struggled with Racing Ralphs till I was blue in the face) then used the method with strap or inner tube around the tyre, it was works like a charm and I added some soapy water to the bead and no sealant at first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin PJ Posted March 1, 2019 Share I've replaced a few valve cores over the years because they get clogged with sealant, so what I do now when topping up sealant is I put a bit of vaseline on the valve core before putting it back into the valve. No more clogged valve cores.I soak the blocked oil ones in paraffin. Then blow some air through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieterJvR Posted March 1, 2019 Share I soak the blocked oil ones in paraffin. Then blow some air through it. Thanks will try that with the blocked ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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