Butterbean Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 Ive wondered about the toe in thing. I have them set up like this (only recently got a road bike), but surely the pads eventually wear at an angle until theyre flat with the brake track again? And then if you set the toe in again the angle will just get worse and worse?They will, to a less extreme degree as the one you're picturing, but do rememberr that the benefits far out weight the costs.. far better stopping power and modulation, the brakes progressive behaviour will give you incredible confidence. As myles has stated, the pads get pulled forward during braking, no matter the setup, so they are aligned toe in to account for this, rather than losing friction power the longer into the stroke of the lever you are. Try it out. Worst case, you replace brake pads a couple months earlier than normal, but have better performance and modulation.
Butterbean Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 Probably no point in setting up and running in the current pads, but thanks will try this when I pt new pads on.The seating part might just be a very important step.Try it with the current pads before you spend money you don't really need to. Sand the pads and scrub the brake track, tyres off makes it much easier cause you can curl a green scourer over both tracks simultaneously, do the toe in setup and test. If not, all the work required with new pads is done anyway so it won't be a waste of time.
Ispeed_V Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 The easiest solution it just go slower and then pass the speed freaks on the uphills
Schnavel Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 Take some photos and place them here so we can look at your setup in terms of caliper spacing, pads, toe etc.
The Ouzo Posted April 16, 2019 Author Posted April 16, 2019 The easiest solution it just go slower and then pass the speed freaks on the uphills its the going slow that I need the brakes for. When I did Linksfield ridge a few weeks back I crapped myself coming down. By the time I got to the bottom my hands and forearms were sore from pulling so hard on the brakes.
Spinnekop Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 What brakes have you got? I recently moved to dual pivot brakes (Shimano) and added some lekker cable with a special R200 "sauce"/coating on them.Brakes went from 70% to ooooohhhhhh sheeeeeetttttt I'm going to go head over first.
Barry_W Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 Don’t worry, you only need brakes to stop for coffee ????Look at your cable tension (amount of pull till they lock) as well, try increasing or decreasing the tension and see if it makes a difference. If you are using a work stand and setting them up without any real velocity and mass you might have the tension a little off.
gummibear Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 My road bike does not seem to have enough stopping power.I'm running rim brakes, have tried new brake pads, tried cleaning the braking surface on the rims but I just cant get the brakes to bite properly. No matter how hard I pull them with my hands on the hoods I cant get a wheel to lock, its better when I'm in the drops but there is still no "bite" when pulling. Could it be the make/compound of the pads ? Cables maybe needing some TLC ? Rims to far worn ?What else can I look at ? It is a problem to me on descents as I dont have confidence that I can brake quickly should I need to, so I tend to keep the speeds low because of this.What do you weigh? What rims are they? What brake pads you using ? What model brakes do you have? What levers are you using? So many different things that can cause poor braking. Did you have this problem from the time of purchasing the bike?
Patchelicious Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 What do you weigh? What rims are they? What brake pads you using ? What model brakes do you have? What levers are you using? So many different things that can cause poor braking. Did you have this problem from the time of purchasing the bike?You sound like my wife when I come home a little late from the pub.
shaper Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 Sounds more like slack cables, adjust the tensioner at the caliper so that after a 30% pull on the brake lever it will engage the pads, then you should have plenty of stopping power. Also as discussed toe in the pads.
King_Crispy Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 My road bike does not seem to have enough stopping power.I'm running rim brakes, have tried new brake pads, tried cleaning the braking surface on the rims but I just cant get the brakes to bite properly. No matter how hard I pull them with my hands on the hoods I cant get a wheel to lock, its better when I'm in the drops but there is still no "bite" when pulling. Could it be the make/compound of the pads ? Cables maybe needing some TLC ? Rims to far worn ?What else can I look at ? It is a problem to me on descents as I dont have confidence that I can brake quickly should I need to, so I tend to keep the speeds low because of this.You never mentioned if your ass is a bit chunky at the moment?It might be that you need to go on diet ????, or not...Pads go hard if they are old. They can also get glazed. Best is to just replace them with a premium brand like Swisstop or Dura Ace if your budget allows. Remember to wear your new ones in properly if you go that route
gummibear Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 You sound like my wife when I come home a little late from the pub.[emoji1787][emoji1787]
The Ouzo Posted April 16, 2019 Author Posted April 16, 2019 You never mentioned if your ass is a bit chunky at the moment?It might be that you need to go on diet [emoji482], or not...Pads go hard if they are old. They can also get glazed. Best is to just replace them with a premium brand like Swisstop or Dura Ace if your budget allows. Remember to wear your new ones in properly if you go that routeat 85kg you can say I’m chunky, but my weight has always been around the same. By the feel of the pads when I brake my best guess right now is that they’re glazed. Will check out Swisstop, budget is tight but stopping in time can be a life saver. Being confident on the brakes can transform my confidence on the bike, so it’s probably worth investing in good pads.
The Ouzo Posted April 16, 2019 Author Posted April 16, 2019 What do you weigh? What rims are they? What brake pads you using ? What model brakes do you have? What levers are you using? So many different things that can cause poor braking. Did you have this problem from the time of purchasing the bike?85kgAlex rims. Must be aluminum. Not sure Scott branded dual pivot Shimano sora I changed to these pads in October, braking was much better in the beginning, that’s why I’m leaning toward them being glazed.
King_Crispy Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 at 85kg you can say I’m chunky, but my weight has always been around the same. By the feel of the pads when I brake my best guess right now is that they’re glazed. Will check out Swisstop, budget is tight but stopping in time can be a life saver. Being confident on the brakes can transform my confidence on the bike, so it’s probably worth investing in good pads.You might get away with a light sanding and changing the braking angle of the pads. If you want to meet me somewhere in Sandton I have a pair of softer carbon wheel pads I could give you to try?
The Ouzo Posted April 17, 2019 Author Posted April 17, 2019 You might get away with a light sanding and changing the braking angle of the pads. If you want to meet me somewhere in Sandton I have a pair of softer carbon wheel pads I could give you to try?I've been investigating Swisstop since they were mentioned here. Trying to see if I can get some locally. But until then I was thinking of trying the sanding route. Basically just take away the top glazed layer and give them a try.
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