The Ouzo Posted August 19, 2019 Posted August 19, 2019 Apple Homekit is a bit of a misnomer because it isnt actually a tangible thing.First question off the bat is, do you own an Apple Homepod? Im guessing no because very few people would think its a good idea buying an ~R8k smart speaker! I have a fully Apple household too and Homekit isnt really a thing, the certification cost is too high for manufacturers like iTead(Sonoff) to pay licensing for. Long story short is that the smart speakers from Apple/Amazon/Google need to be able to talk to a device if you want to use voice commands to turn it on and off. Amazon and Google have no issues but Apple is another issue altogether. IF you just want to use the app that the device comes with on your iphone or ipad then no worries, Sonoff will work just fine for that. I personally use Home Assistant as the hub for my home automation, through that Im able to extend any device I have to being "homekit" compatible. So I can ask Siri to turn on or off lights, open/close front gate or garage door etc.I can also do the same with Amazon or Google at the same time and the Echo speaker I have is great for that. Did any of that make sense? Im not sure it would to me and I just wrote it!all makes perfect sense.The only time I talk to any of my devices is in the morning when I need a weather report whilst getting dressed, I dont see myself talking to the house to make lights go on and off. Thanks for the reply.
The Ouzo Posted September 30, 2019 Posted September 30, 2019 So I decided to go the Sonoff route for now.1) they're cheap2) they're easily flashed if you want to run HA or something.Installed a TH16 to replace the pool timerA sonoff basic for the pool lightA Dual Channel for some lights I've put on the wall. Went Dual channel as there is a second set of lights I'm wanting to run there in teh near future.Simple enough to setup, simple enough to use. Even the wife is impressed.What I do find strange is the TH16 and the basic are sitting next to each other yet they are reporting different wifi strengths.
Vetplant Posted September 30, 2019 Posted September 30, 2019 So I decided to go the Sonoff route for now.1) they're cheap2) they're easily flashed if you want to run HA or something. Installed a TH16 to replace the pool timerA sonoff basic for the pool lightA Dual Channel for some lights I've put on the wall. Went Dual channel as there is a second set of lights I'm wanting to run there in teh near future. Simple enough to setup, simple enough to use. Even the wife is impressed. What I do find strange is the TH16 and the basic are sitting next to each other yet they are reporting different wifi strengths.WiFi is a dark art in my mind, I think devices next to each other can have a significant impact on each other's signal strength. Netis Router for R165 on firstshop.co.za changed my life as it stronger than any of the other brands. Fixed all my Internet problems at home
Karman de Lange Posted September 30, 2019 Posted September 30, 2019 Jumping in here .. house been automated for about 9 years now with many different technologies over the years. Settled on 1 system for last 5... MQTT MQTT is the central buss of all communications, all devices simply talk to or get alerts from it. Running following:Custom ESP8266 device to interface to Paradox MG5050 system alarmQwickswitch USB to mqtt gateway for dimmers/wall switches (5 ish)Sonoff for on/off and temprature sensors (already does mqtt) (about 20)DuhnHam bush Aircon to MQTT gateway (2 units)Custom esp8266 12v dimmers for LED that speaks MQTT (~5 units)Barionet 100 speaking mqtt for "old lights" system in house (1 controlling 5 lights)Openhab running on PI (still looking for better system, need reboot every few months)Alexa connected to openhab cloud (just works)Homekit connected to openhab ()Victron CCGX mqtt to get solar stats.probably few other things I might have forgotten (have 48+ wifi devices registered most of the times..) They MAIN thing with homeautomation is to always remmeber .. if you need to touch or do something for your house todo something , its not automation , its simply a glorified wall switch . If you need assistance .. welcome to ask , I've tested, made/done most homeautomation things over the years JanJan, Rocket-Boy, the nerd and 1 other 4
Karman de Lange Posted September 30, 2019 Posted September 30, 2019 (edited) So I decided to go the Sonoff route for now.1) they're cheap2) they're easily flashed if you want to run HA or something. Installed a TH16 to replace the pool timerA sonoff basic for the pool lightA Dual Channel for some lights I've put on the wall. Went Dual channel as there is a second set of lights I'm wanting to run there in teh near future. Simple enough to setup, simple enough to use. Even the wife is impressed. What I do find strange is the TH16 and the basic are sitting next to each other yet they are reporting different wifi strengths. Wifi is simple ... its crap unless its works, then its not so crap. My wifi mythology is simple, if connected and works, just leave it alone. on home automation you don't need speed , just need stay connected. Edited September 30, 2019 by Karman de Lange Vetplant 1
The Ouzo Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 without sifting through the entire thread, is there anyone running some sort of smart switching on their geyser ? My geyser wise has died a second time, instead of replacing it I was thinking of going the smart route. Only thing is I cant find an off the shelf solution. I need something that will have an iOS app and integrate with Google home If no off the shelf solution then I'm thinking a Sonoff TH16 (I already have a number of sonoff devices), use the temp sensor to sense water temps in the geyser, use the switching of the Sonoff to turn on/off a relay for the element.
bertusras Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 How are you going to install the temperature sensor into the geyser? TH16 is rated for 3.3kW I believe, but it will fail over time. These mechanical relays don't like switching on and off all the time, especially at such high loads.
Rocket-Boy Posted March 17, 2020 Author Posted March 17, 2020 without sifting through the entire thread, is there anyone running some sort of smart switching on their geyser ? My geyser wise has died a second time, instead of replacing it I was thinking of going the smart route. Only thing is I cant find an off the shelf solution. I need something that will have an iOS app and integrate with Google home If no off the shelf solution then I'm thinking a Sonoff TH16 (I already have a number of sonoff devices), use the temp sensor to sense water temps in the geyser, use the switching of the Sonoff to turn on/off a relay for the element.Sonoff POW R2 is the only thing that works.The majority of Sonoffs are 16A rated where the POW is 20A if Im not mistaken.The other benefit is that it has power monitoring to check in realtime and cumulative stats too.You can also connect the Sonoff branded DS18B20 temperature sensor to do other automations. Has the iOS app and you can set schedules on it.
Rocket-Boy Posted March 17, 2020 Author Posted March 17, 2020 How are you going to install the temperature sensor into the geyser? TH16 is rated for 3.3kW I believe, but it will fail over time. These mechanical relays don't like switching on and off all the time, especially at such high loads.You can wrap the sensor conductor under the insulation on the inlet pipe in solar setups but not sure about traditional electric geysers.
The Ouzo Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 How are you going to install the temperature sensor into the geyser? TH16 is rated for 3.3kW I believe, but it will fail over time. These mechanical relays don't like switching on and off all the time, especially at such high loads.current geyserwise has a temp sensor very similar to the TH16 one. This just slide straight into the cavity where your normal thermostat goes into. TH16 might be rated for 3.3kw, but only for 16amps, there is no way I'm running my geyser with just that, hence the relay.
The Ouzo Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 Sonoff POW R2 is the only thing that works.The majority of Sonoffs are 16A rated where the POW is 20A if Im not mistaken.The other benefit is that it has power monitoring to check in realtime and cumulative stats too.You can also connect the Sonoff branded DS18B20 temperature sensor to do other automations. Has the iOS app and you can set schedules on it.I think most sonoffs are 10A, I know I had to get a TH16 to get 16amps for the pool motor. Are you saying teh DS18B20 can plug straight into a POW ?
The Ouzo Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 I think most sonoffs are 10A, I know I had to get a TH16 to get 16amps for the pool motor. Are you saying teh DS18B20 can plug straight into a POW ?just checked, POW is rated at 15A, not going to be good enough I'm afraid.
Karman de Lange Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 without sifting through the entire thread, is there anyone running some sort of smart switching on their geyser ? My geyser wise has died a second time, instead of replacing it I was thinking of going the smart route. Only thing is I cant find an off the shelf solution. I need something that will have an iOS app and integrate with Google home If no off the shelf solution then I'm thinking a Sonoff TH16 (I already have a number of sonoff devices), use the temp sensor to sense water temps in the geyser, use the switching of the Sonoff to turn on/off a relay for the element. I run contactor (relay's don't last on 3kw+ elements) , then just a Qwickswitch switching the contactor on/off (220v contactor relay). Sonoff probably fine as contactor only draw 10w. I have not worked out how to measure the inside temprature of geyser without adding second tube or something inside geyser as I don't want to bypass default thermostat. I just meassure temprature on outgoing pipe hot pipe just for record purposes. Still not found any off the shelf solutions that lasts, seen to many geyserwise melt after few months to even trust it in my house. I never trust the rating on a relay, its not made to run 24/7 with resistive load, so I always go double to just be safe and then you in contactor world. Rocket-Boy 1
Karman de Lange Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 (edited) just checked, POW is rated at 15A, not going to be good enough I'm afraid. Pool motor is 0.75kw normally .. think draws 1000w at wall .. so thats 5A inductive load... 10a relay should be fine. A contactor is cheap , ~R200-R350 .. so just be safe and rather install that and use sonoff to trigger it. Edited March 17, 2020 by Karman de Lange
The Ouzo Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 Pool motor is 0.75kw normally .. think draws 1000w at wall .. so thats 5A inductive load... 10a relay should be fine. A contactor is cheap , ~R200-R350 .. so just be safe and rather install that and use sonoff to trigger it.1kw is what mine is rated at. I'm no expert, but I think its the start up load that is the problem, that why most of the time they are wired to a 20A breaker.
The Ouzo Posted March 17, 2020 Posted March 17, 2020 I run contactor (relay's don't last on 3kw+ elements) , then just a Qwickswitch switching the contactor on/off (220v contactor relay). Sonoff probably fine as contactor only draw 10w. I have not worked out how to measure the inside temprature of geyser without adding second tube or something inside geyser as I don't want to bypass default thermostat. I just meassure temprature on outgoing pipe hot pipe just for record purposes. Still not found any off the shelf solutions that lasts, seen to many geyserwise melt after few months to even trust it in my house. I never trust the rating on a relay, its not made to run 24/7 with resistive load, so I always go double to just be safe and then you in contactor world.I'm not keen on teh quickswitch as it has no iOS and google home support. having switched between standard thermostat and geyserwise a few times I find the standard thermostats very inaccurate. The temp sensor for the geyserwise slides into the cavity where the standard thermostat goes. Have you got a wiring diagram or pic of your setup ? My geyserwise lasted probably 10 years before it started giving issues, but once it did its done it twice in about 6 months. time to dump it.
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