94.7 Race with what bike?

[Firozfx]

Does a mtb ride harder than a road bike? Whats the difference?

Yes. I've done the comparison for myself. Check calories consumed and work done. In some cases based on terrain, you can do between 1.5 to 2 times the work on a mtb. Even riding on road the higher friction forces and smaller gearing on flats works you like crazy.

 

I did the 114 km Ride for sight road race on mtb with knobblies as a training ride for joberg2c. My work done and calories was nearly double against a similar sized and weight friend on a road bike. Spinning a 36 ring vs his 53 ring was painful

[TyronLab]

As someone who had bought my first bike last year this time and got a corporate entry through a supplier, I had the same questions.

 

I trained hard, aimed for a sub5 and ended up with a 4h11. On a 15kg hardtail with knobblies.

 

Since its my only bike and I ride road in the week for training I can tell you that you don't need a road bike. I had a great time last year and overtook hundreds of other weaker riders on much fancier and expensive kit. If you're trying to win, buy a roadie. If you're riding for fun, with friends, as a personal challenge or any other reason, stick with what hou have.

 

My bike is pretty cheap, so I had the benefit of a 3x9 drivetrain that allowed me to keep up with most road bikes into that bastard headwind on the M1 where I really needed it.

[Zub]

If your goal is just to finish, then MTB with slicks. You will have a much more comfortable ride.

 

On a road bike your body position is way different, and if you not used to this or set up is not on point, you can start getting back and neck pain which can spoil your whole day out.

 

IMO, Stick to the MTB.

[MudLark]

It depends upon so many factors, most of them personally specific to the individual.

 

Before last year's Tshwane Classic I bought my first roadbike on the Friday afternoon. Took it for a short spin on Saturday and then rode the race on Sunday. Had a whale of a time going like blazes.... until I hit Tom Jenkins. That I could have easily climbed on my MTB but I had burnt so much fuel before that on my roadbike, I just didnt have the ability to climb it out on roadbike gearing. I also croaked up the last climb to the Voortrekker Monument. On the other hand I had a real blast racing a fellow participant up Chappies on the CTCT earlier this year on that same bike. By then I was fitter, stronger and lighter.

 

On a ride around Suikerbosrand, with its steep inclines, I find the roadbike a bit faster but its much easier to crank up the hills on my 1x12 MTB.

 

It's a very personal choice.

[Frosty]

Does anyone have the profile for the event then i can try it on rouvy/zwift?

Here you go... last year's event.

activity_3168639186.zip

[slickjay007]

Did the ride on an MTB last year, no slicks and had no issue with comfort or the ride. If you going to ride with a 1 x setup then i recommend changing the front chainring to a bigger size. Mine chainring was only a 34 so i tapped out on max speed but otherwise a fairly good ride.

 

I wouldn't even bother changing to slicks. You not going for a podium.

[Joe Soap]

I've also been asking myself this question lately.

Doing my 1st 947 this year.

I have a decent dual sus and a entry level 29'er hard tail.

Which one on the above do I use?

OR...

I see that every now and then a road bike for R3000 to R4000 pops up.

Should I avoid these? My thinking is that I can probably sell it for the same price I bought it after the race.

[Vetplant]

I've also been asking myself this question lately.

Doing my 1st 947 this year.

I have a decent dual sus and a entry level 29'er hard tail.

Which one on the above do I use?

OR...

I see that every now and then a road bike for R3000 to R4000 pops up.

Should I avoid these? My thinking is that I can probably sell it for the same price I bought it after the race.

[Milosh]

I've also been asking myself this question lately.

Doing my 1st 947 this year.

I have a decent dual sus and a entry level 29'er hard tail.

Which one on the above do I use?

OR...

I see that every now and then a road bike for R3000 to R4000 pops up.

Should I avoid these? My thinking is that I can probably sell it for the same price I bought it after the race.

 

All depends on your intent 

 

1) Training/lsd mtb ride on roads you can not ride otherwise  

vs 

2) Putting down a respectable time 

 

A road bike will get you a better time no doubt ! 

[m-squared]

I've also been asking myself this question lately.

Doing my 1st 947 this year.

I have a decent dual sus and a entry level 29'er hard tail.

Which one on the above do I use?

OR...

I see that every now and then a road bike for R3000 to R4000 pops up.

Should I avoid these? My thinking is that I can probably sell it for the same price I bought it after the race.

 

It's a lot of effort to buy a road bike just for one race.  Not to mention body position, possibly different cleats and shoes, etc.  If you're planning on doing more road races, then buy it.  Otherwise just pick if you prefer the dual sus or hardtail, lock out the suspension and pump up the tyres. 

[MudLark]

.

I see that every now and then a road bike for R3000 to R4000 pops up.

Should I avoid these? My thinking is that I can probably sell it for the same price I bought it after the race.

 

If you are thinking of buying a bike just for the single race, you probably aren't seriously racing anyway. In other words, you aren't out to really do the best that you can do (competing against yourself). Rather, you are riding because of the ride. In that case, perhaps rather just use what you have and enjoy the ride – as by far and away most of the participants do anyway.

[Mojoman]

Did my first 94.7 on a Giant Trance. Locked out suspension. Swopped tyres for some old worn Maxi Crossmarks I had laying about and had a nice ride....Will be doing pretty much the same this year on a hardtail. I wouldn't really bother wasting good money on new tyres or a bike for just one ride/race....(Just make sure you can do 100km on whatever you decide to use....!)

[Ashchest]

Appropriate slicks and a set of tubes is not a bad idea.  Not only will it make you quicker on the road, but it will also save your more expensive offroad MTB tires from being used up on road rides.  My experience is that road rides eat tires designed for offroad and trails and it is probably the main reason why I put slick wheels on my bike when riding on the road - to save my offroad tires for the job they were meant to do - riding offroad.    

The current  1.5 Chaoyang slicks on my bike only cost R125 each  + R40 / tube.  

 

So if you have a MTB and like to ride a lot on - and off the road depending on the day, it is not a bad idea to include a second suitable wheel set with road tires for those road rides.  

[eddy]

Appropriate slicks and a set of tubes is not a bad idea.  Not only will it make you quicker on the road, but it will also save your more expensive offroad MTB tires from being used up on road rides.  My experience is that road rides eat tires designed for offroad and trails and it is probably the main reason why I put slick wheels on my bike when riding on the road - to save my offroad tires for the job they were meant to do - riding offroad.    

The current  1.5 Chaoyang slicks on my bike only cost R125 each  + R40 / tube.  

 

So if you have a MTB and like to ride a lot on - and off the road depending on the day, it is not a bad idea to include a second suitable wheel set with road tires for those road rides.

 

700c road tyres and 29" mtb tyres go on the same rims

[scotty]

700c road tyres and 29" mtb tyres go on the same rims

But they don't make the same whirring noise. 

[DogMTB]

I changed to 29" slicks on my soft tail and gained at least 5km/h average. Its not too expensive and honestly worth it. They are sitting in my cupboard and will be used again this year.