Vetplant Posted December 4, 2019 Share wouldn't the same thing happen if you weren't tubeless? Sounds like it would have cost you a tyre and a tubeYep, but a tube + tyre seems to be about 50% cheaper than just a tubeless tyre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckstopper Posted December 4, 2019 Share That's bad luck S&A! 2 years touch wood not needing to change a tube since ditching the idea of tubes. If I have to call a friend every 2 years worth it. Ride pro ones at 4 bar. No going back. Vetplant and Wobbles 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnclePolli Posted December 5, 2019 Share That's bad luck S&A! 2 years touch wood not needing to change a tube since ditching the idea of tubes. If I have to call a friend every 2 years worth it. Ride pro ones at 4 bar. No going back.Same here. 80-90psi.rode for 5 years with tubes (zero punctures)maybe i should ride more....... tubeless for 2 years (zero punctures) - i always carry a spare tube with some stans just in-casewill not go back, im sold, ja it is a bit of hassle changing tyres and they do loose pressure quicker than tubed tyres. It seals the alu rim joint at 110psi where it usually leaks when setting up. ideal setup - 1 x training wheelset gatorskins tubeless 1 x race wheelset pro1's. They wear out quick and i have to rotate front and back so that it tapers off the same. weight wise, i guess a small saving of 5g 60ml vs 65g lightweight tube and probably a bit of rotational mass saving on the liquid, but this must be lab tested yes its messy when it cuts, the tyre are expensive - how many still run tubes in MTB i wonder Wobbles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyLuke Posted December 6, 2019 Share I am running conti tl5000 with stans, got a sidewall cut on the rear tire on nobody knows what, went over n dry piece of cow dung on smooth tar road. The problem was I could not get a tube in as the tyre was too tight on the rim, had to call for a lift. Patched the tyre with superglue and a patch on the inside however it did not work, hole was too big and the patch was on its way out. Had to bin the tire. So the confidence in tubeless has got a knock, Put the old sworks pro's back on and what a harsh ride, Tubeless rides much smoother and it feels a bit faster too Vetplant and Wobbles 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madbradd Posted December 6, 2019 Share I am running conti tl5000 with stans, got a sidewall cut on the rear tire on nobody knows what, went over n dry piece of cow dung on smooth tar road. The problem was I could not get a tube in as the tyre was too tight on the rim, had to call for a lift. Patched the tyre with superglue and a patch on the inside however it did not work, hole was too big and the patch was on its way out. Had to bin the tire. So the confidence in tubeless has got a knock, Put the old sworks pro's back on and what a harsh ride, Tubeless rides much smoother and it feels a bit faster too I know it probably wouldn't make a difference on the sidewall cut vibe, but asking out of curiosity as I have a set of GP5000 TLs on the way for Christmas - were you using Stans or Stans Race? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyLuke Posted December 6, 2019 Share I know it probably wouldn't make a difference on the sidewall cut vibe, but asking out of curiosity as I have a set of GP5000 TLs on the way for Christmas - were you using Stans or Stans Race? The normal stans, not the race, it seals small holes perfectly. Definitly great tyres, rolls extremely well and smooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schnavel Posted December 6, 2019 Share Normal stans doesn't work on road tyres - it doesn't handle the high pressures well. Stans race is better, but either Orange Seal or the Conti road sealant work best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckstopper Posted December 6, 2019 Share Works fine on my bike. Schwalbe on the tyre say 4-6.5 bar for 28mm, and 5-7.5 for 25mm tyre. Why go higher? Vetplant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lechatnoir Posted December 6, 2019 Share Normal stans doesn't work on road tyres - it doesn't handle the high pressures well. Stans race is better, but either Orange Seal or the Conti road sealant work best. I'm using Ryder tubeless sealant. Seems to work well. It's not runny like Stans and seems more 'gritty'. I tries Stans in my gravel wheelset and it kept losing pressure. I added some Ryder sealant and it sorted things nicely. Note, I've not had any punctures that I know of - at least I've not witnessed any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ouzo Posted December 6, 2019 Share I'm using Ryder tubeless sealant. Seems to work well. It's not runny like Stans and seems more 'gritty'. I tries Stans in my gravel wheelset and it kept losing pressure. I added some Ryder sealant and it sorted things nicely. Note, I've not had any punctures that I know of - at least I've not witnessed any.this is my worry. Topped up the sealant in my tyres with Ryder, but I dont know if it works yet. Also not really looking forward to being 50km from home and only then finding out it doesnt seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ouzo Posted December 15, 2019 Share So around 1200km of tubeless riding before my first puncture. Somewhere in the first 30km of today’s ride I picked up a puncture. At the halfway mark when in stopped I was greeted with this The pressure gauge built into my right thumb told me I had plenty pressure. So I turned around and headed home. About 5km later ....psst...psssst....psst. I stop, I check and it seals back up again. Thumb pressure gauge again tells me I’m good to go. About 4km from home it breaks the seal again. This time the thumb tells me we are now getting low on pressure and any further loss will require some added air. But it got me home. Investigating later on there are actually 2 holes close to each other and multiple lite cuts on the tyre. I’ve dropped the pressure in the tyre and applied super glue to the holes and cuts. Is there anything further I’m supposed to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidtinker Posted December 15, 2019 Share I’ve dropped the pressure in the tyre and applied super glue to the holes and cuts. Is there anything further I’m supposed to do? I would take it off and patch on the inside. What sealant are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDJ Posted December 15, 2019 Share So around 1200km of tubeless riding before my first puncture.Somewhere in the first 30km of today’s ride I picked up a puncture. At the halfway mark when in stopped I was greeted with thisThe pressure gauge built into my right thumb told me I had plenty pressure. So I turned around and headed home.About 5km later ....psst...psssst....psst.I stop, I check and it seals back up again.Thumb pressure gauge again tells me I’m good to go. About 4km from home it breaks the seal again. This time the thumb tells me we are now getting low on pressure and any further loss will require some added air.But it got me home. Investigating later on there are actually 2 holes close to each other and multiple lite cuts on the tyre. I’ve dropped the pressure in the tyre and applied super glue to the holes and cuts. Is there anything further I’m supposed to do? I didn't have any joy with super glue when I tried that. After 1 year without issues I noticed my front GP5000TLs tubeless tyre was flat yesterday, found a hole when I tried to pump it - seems the sealant has mostly dried. I plugged it with a slug plug yesteday and cut it flush with side cutters. I did a 60km ride today and it felt really good. I'm gonna try get one of the ryder kits - so much easier if you could plug vs having to take everything apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomo Posted December 15, 2019 Share After 1 year ...Did you go a year with the same sealant.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDJ Posted December 15, 2019 Share Did you go a year with the same sealant.? Previously yes - same sealant, I did around 8000kms over 11 months without any issues (luck?). This one was however a new tyre 28mm bought about 1 month ago for my new bike, running continental RevoSealant. I think the LBS put in a bit too little sealant and it was still bedding down - gonna try top it up next week. Looked like glass cuts, I pulled out a few pretty big shards from both tyres, we've had rain in CT the last few mornings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ouzo Posted December 15, 2019 Share I would take it off and patch on the inside. What sealant are you using?im using Ryder sealant. Glued it, went out for a good few hours, when I got home went into the garage to check and all still good. The real test will be on the road with the tyre flexing. MDJ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now