Fork Debate

[hubbernero]

This is exaclty the problem I have. I had a cheap(er) Manitou Markhor fork, really liked it. Then I upgraded to a RS Reba. Just not the same and I blame the setup. I can't find the sweet spot.

 

This is my second Reba, the first one was fine, not much better than the Manitou. I am actually considering a Markhor again. Don't think I would actually do it, but maybe.

I went from a Fox to a RS Reba, worst decision of my life. I just can’t get that fork to come close to feeling as nice and plush as the Fox did. I have had it serviced and checked multiple times, always thought there was something wrong with it. Every time I’m told everything is in order and working as it should.

 

Definitely going back to Fox when the budget allows.

[love2fly]

By slower do you mean more rolling resistance?

 

I've Also Had Both in Front - I feel the Ardent "Bites Better" on Soft Sand but It's a Slower Tyre.

[love2fly]

Yip I'll look at spacers. It does seem quite firm and maybe that's why I can run it a bit softer. I fall afoul of popular wisdom on Tyre pressures and typically run 1.6 and 1.1. The 1.1 helps in the looser stuff. If I ride a firmer trail I'll go to 1.8 and 1.4.

To answer your question: I have gone from a 100mm stem and 720 bars to 50mm and 800mm. I have tried both on both forks and prefer the longer bars but due to too much bush in the Cradle reverted to 50mm stem and 720 bars for now.

Long term I prefer the longer bars and shorter stem.

I guess I'm going to have to live with not trusting the front in a corner with loose sand... Would love to try a dropper some time as I think lowering COG would really help.

Thanks for the constructive suggestions...

 

Some comments below.

 

I don't know hey, the Fox is supposed to be a better fork than the RS. But like many others have mentioned, it is very far from being a great fork. Maybe the 100mm is just not working for you and you miss the extra 20mm.

 

You didn't perhaps change anything else at the same time? Like maybe a different stem or handlebar? A wider handlebar and shorter stem would also improve handling quite a bit.

[love2fly]

OK some feedback. Firstly thank you to everyone for some really valuable and interesting thoughts. Thoughts which stimulated the folkowing: Last night I thought I'd go back to basics and tweak the rebound and found something bih. When I used to ride the RS 30 I set it according to the RS App (Trailhead) which said to set Rebound at - 1 Click. I believed that due to being a bit heavier, the fork is already somewhat compressed thus needing less rebound.

I did the "bounce" test and found I could back off the rebound a lot. I had it at - 2 or 3 but now have it at probably - 7 or thereabouts. Different bike. Much more feel in the corners. The - 1 felt numb in comparison and I'm sure that's due to the fork taking a couple of hits but not being able to recover. I even rode a slightly higher Tyre pressure and am sure I can up it some more which will keep the tyre more consistent through the corners. Very chuffed.

[patham]

I went from a Fox to a RS Reba, worst decision of my life. I just can’t get that fork to come close to feeling as nice and plush as the Fox did. I have had it serviced and checked multiple times, always thought there was something wrong with it. Every time I’m told everything is in order and working as it should.

 

Definitely going back to Fox when the budget allows.

 

 

Funnily enough - exact opposite for me. I went from a 6 year old 120/140 mm RS Reba (old 32 mm stanchions) to a new 150 mm Fox 36 performance elite. Apart from a stiffness improvement, after 6 months I still have not been able to dial in the Fox to come close to being as good a performer or as comfortable. And the Fox is so much more susceptible to pedal bob! 

[Rigardt@Scott]

Funnily enough - exact opposite for me. I went from a 6 year old 120/140 mm RS Reba (old 32 mm stanchions) to a new 150 mm Fox 36 performance elite. Apart from a stiffness improvement, after 6 months I still have not been able to dial in the Fox to come close to being as good a performer or as comfortable. And the Fox is so much more susceptible to pedal bob!

Do yourself a favour and rent a Shock Wiz for a weekend. Even if just to get in the right ball park. A propperly set up 36 performance elite (I am assuming Fit4 damper) is a brilliant fork.

[DieselnDust]

Do yourself a favour and rent a Shock Wiz for a weekend. Even if just to get in the right ball park. A propperly set up 36 performance elite (I am assuming Fit4 damper) is a brilliant fork.

 

 

The 36 is a great product but you'll chase your tail if you don't get the LSC and LSR set up correctly.

IMO a great can be terrible in the hands of someone who doesn't understand it. then if your riding weight changes by 3 Kg the fork settings can feel terrible again. Its very sensitive to the tune settings. I would not recomend it to someone who doesn't want to really understand whats going on inside that thing

[ChrisF]

The 36 is a great product but you'll chase your tail if you don't get the LSC and LSR set up correctly.

IMO a great can be terrible in the hands of someone who doesn't understand it. then if your riding weight changes by 3 Kg the fork settings can feel terrible again. Its very sensitive to the tune settings. I would not recomend it to someone who doesn't want to really understand whats going on inside that thing

Do you possibly have some links to videos for different types of videos ?

 

As you say, the best shock is only as good or as bad as its setup ...

 

EDIT ... There are many "general" videos out there. I think many use the wrong videos and go further down the rabit hole ...

[Jewbacca]

I think you guys are getting way too technical for the OP.

 

In reality, the 32/30 probably offers a more svelt ride on the gravel roads and paths because it isn't stiff.

 

The flex probably helps soak up some chatter. 

 

The OP isn't hitting drops, railing berms and clearing doubles or braking hard on super steep trails, so the stiffness of the big forks is lost anyway.

 

OP, if you feel you have played and dialled in one of the other, then what is it you are asking? If they feel the same, then does it matter which one you use?

 

Keep one, flog one and forget about it.

 

But get them both serviced properly first and re-test. A service can make a world of difference.

[PhilipV]

OK some feedback. Firstly thank you to everyone for some really valuable and interesting thoughts. Thoughts which stimulated the folkowing: Last night I thought I'd go back to basics and tweak the rebound and found something bih. When I used to ride the RS 30 I set it according to the RS App (Trailhead) which said to set Rebound at - 1 Click. I believed that due to being a bit heavier, the fork is already somewhat compressed thus needing less rebound.

I did the "bounce" test and found I could back off the rebound a lot. I had it at - 2 or 3 but now have it at probably - 7 or thereabouts. Different bike. Much more feel in the corners. The - 1 felt numb in comparison and I'm sure that's due to the fork taking a couple of hits but not being able to recover. I even rode a slightly higher Tyre pressure and am sure I can up it some more which will keep the tyre more consistent through the corners. Very chuffed.

Most people ride forks that are set too slow.

Sobiwont be surprised if you liked the faster fork. It will be more responsive.

 

And I don't agree with the RS Trailhead settings. At all.

 

Go back to the fundamentals.

Set the sag to be about 25%.

Then you set the rebound to feel fast, and play with it on a chattery bit of trail and then redo that trail with faster and slower rebound (change one variable at a time) and after every run ask yourself "was this similar, better or worse than the last run?" And then work yourself into finding your sweet spot.

 

And then start playing around with tyre pressures and do the same bracketing tests.

 

And remember, what works for one person won't be applicable to another, even if they weigh the same.

[DieselnDust]

sage advice Phillip

[patham]

Do yourself a favour and rent a Shock Wiz for a weekend. Even if just to get in the right ball park. A propperly set up 36 performance elite (I am assuming Fit4 damper) is a brilliant fork.

 

Thanks for the good advice - I'll definitely look into this. 

 

Do you possibly have some links to videos for different types of videos ?

 

As you say, the best shock is only as good or as bad as its setup ...

 

EDIT ... There are many "general" videos out there. I think many use the wrong videos and go further down the rabit hole ...

 

I think this is where I landed up. Infinite amount of videos out there, to go with the practically infinite amount of settings.  

[ChrisF]

Patham most of us at one point or another got caught chasing our tail with these settings ....

 

 

Those that know .... they set it up quickly ...

[patham]

Patham most of us at one point or another got caught chasing our tail with these settings ....

 

 

Those that know .... they set it up quickly ...

 

The secret society of the seasoned suspension professionals ! I knew it. Bit like the freemasons, but with greasy hands?

[DieselnDust]

The secret society of the seasoned suspension professionals ! I knew it. Bit like the freemasons, but with greasy hands?

 

 

no they use latex gloves.... :/

[Steady Spin]

The Grease Masons

 

Lots of tutorials on Youtube on how to tune and understand suspension tune. 

 

Get your sag right and dial in 30 to 40% rebound and leave everything else alone. 

Then you start riding and tuning and tuning and tuning until you find a setting that works for you. 

 

I still ride with my compression all the way open and i'm tweaking rebound still after 6 months. After adding air tokens I restarted the rebound tuning. 

 

It's a slow process and I'm 99% there. Worth it though. 

 

Or get the shock wiz and spend a weekend with it.