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Upgrading Components - Is it worth it?


BrettS

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2 minutes ago, Chadvdw67 said:

Why not have a look at fitting 9 speed wide range cassete? That way all you need to do is remove big and small chainring, if they can be removed that is, and maybe fit a narrow wide chainring, if you left the front derailleur in place and just adjusted the limit screws you maybe get rid of the shifter as well

 

https://evobikes.co.za/product/sunrace-casette-csm980-9spd-11-40t-blk/

 

It may not be perfect, but it should work well enough, you wil probably need to add a derailleur hanger extender as well, but it is by far the cheapest option I would imagine

If he fits a narrow-wide chainring I doubt he will need the front derailleur. I have yet to lose my  chain since I fitted the narrow-wide. I removed the front derailleur, shifter and have a SRAM X9 9-speed without clutch.

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4 minutes ago, Chadvdw67 said:

Why not have a look at fitting 9 speed wide range cassete? That way all you need to do is remove big and small chainring, if they can be removed that is, and maybe fit a narrow wide chainring, if you left the front derailleur in place and just adjusted the limit screws you could get rid of the shifter as well

 

https://evobikes.co.za/product/sunrace-casette-csm980-9spd-11-40t-blk/

 

It may not be perfect, but it should work well enough, you wil probably need to add a derailleur hanger extender as well, but it is by far the cheapest option I would imagine

Will this give you a decent amount of gear selection though? 

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Just now, BrettS said:

Will this give you a decent amount of gear selection though? 

This depends on your legs :D


I have thus far done perfectly fine with my 9-speed but I don't do long distance gravel rides and prefer more technical trails.

 

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2 minutes ago, Rolf Hansen said:

If he fits a narrow-wide chainring I doubt he will need the front derailleur. I have yet to lose my  chain since I fitted the narrow-wide. I removed the front derailleur, shifter and have a SRAM X9 9-speed without clutch.

100%, I did not clarify that well, if you ise the stock chainring, to save on costs, you would need to keep the front derailleur, if you get a narrow-wide chain ring, you could probably loose the derailleur as well, but being a non clutch type derailleur, it would maybe be safer to keep it on, or get a nice neat proper chain guide

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11 minutes ago, BrettS said:

My wife will probably kill me no matter which direction I go in haha

When I was starting out at replacing my HT with a full-sus, I began by regularly informing my wife that this is what I was planning on doing and showed her how I was saving up towards that goal. Then in the next phase I started pointing out all the bikes that were at least 25k more expensive that what I was planning to spend (which I never divulged to her), then in the final phase I went and bought the bike when the time was right, and proudly showed it to her that evening. 

Of course she was horrified that I would spend R75 000 on a mtb and started ranting like mad. Only until I told her I was not insane and only spent R40k which instantly pacified her and she felt so much better about it.

*It goes without saying not all wives will fall for this stunt, but mine did...

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13 minutes ago, Chadvdw67 said:

100%, I did not clarify that well, if you ise the stock chainring, to save on costs, you would need to keep the front derailleur, if you get a narrow-wide chain ring, you could probably loose the derailleur as well, but being a non clutch type derailleur, it would maybe be safer to keep it on, or get a nice neat proper chain guide

I will have to do a bit of research to see all the components I will have to purchase.

If you know of any Youtube vids on the process that would also help a lot.

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30 minutes ago, Chadvdw67 said:

100%, I did not clarify that well, if you ise the stock chainring, to save on costs, you would need to keep the front derailleur, 

Yes and no. I hacked a 3x chainset into a 1x, and then hacked the FD into a very neat chain guide. 

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On 10/25/2021 at 9:27 AM, RobertWhitehead said:

Ok, so here's my 2 cents: 

  • You have a no name brand frame so this is the same as polishing a turD ????
  • Are all the parts interchangeable on your no name frame to any other? Yip, they are. Your main sticking point will be the QR on both the fork and frame. This will cause you to not be able to upgrade to a decent fork (quickly - you do get decent QR forks but they're not as readily available)

So my suggestion: Start to upgrade the bike systematically i.e. upgrade the drive train, rear mech, cassette, shifter, chain ring. Then ride the bike for another month or two. Then swop the fork for something with a thru axle but then remember that you'll have to change the wheels as well to accommodate. Now you'll notice that the rear will remain QR to fit the frame, this will be easy enough to get. Then lastly wait for a decent frame and then carry all these parts over to the new frame. Now you have a whole new bike which you bought / upgraded over time.

I must warn you though: 

  1. This can be a more expensive option and it does come with some additional risk, you may end up buying the wrong part or the part may be in bad shape
  2. It is not an instant solution to your problem, this takes time to achieve.

But there's definite benefits to this approach:

  1. You only buy a part when and if you can afford to do so.
  2. Once you're done upgrading the bike it will be exactly the way you want it and there will not be something rubbish on the bike - unless you're still looking to upgrade that particular part.
  3. You do not have to have a massive outlay of cash to get into the game, you already have a bike so it doesn't matter how long it takes to upgrade it ????.

I build bikes as a "side hustle" and will gladly help you to get down the road. 

My way of thinking as well.

First bike was a 2014 Giant Revel, which I upgraded over the next 2 years. Even converted to taper steerer. Then got a nice deal on a Anthem DS frame, and build everything onto the Anthem.

Still have the Revel to this day, although now a monster cross/gravel/road bike. Whatever the situation requires it to be.

Don't have the Anthem any more. Terrible mistake to sell that bike.

 

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22 minutes ago, Koos Likkewaan said:

My way of thinking as well.

First bike was a 2014 Giant Revel, which I upgraded over the next 2 years. Even converted to taper steerer. Then got a nice deal on a Anthem DS frame, and build everything onto the Anthem.

Still have the Revel to this day, although now a monster cross/gravel/road bike. Whatever the situation requires it to be.

Don't have the Anthem any more. Terrible mistake to sell that bike.

 

I'm going to try find some decent conversion videos and some good parts so I can make it an exciting ht to ride.

Still reckon I will work my way towards a full sus along the way. 

 

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On 10/25/2021 at 7:59 AM, BrettS said:

Apologies if this thread exists elsewhere but I haven't found it.

 

I recently got into cycling again and decided not to splurge on a new bike and picked up a decentish 2nd hand bike.

I am loving the sport and am in a constant love hate relationship with my bike, possibly bike envy and the love for something new/ more upgraded.

I have a 29er hard tail, I love the look of my bike all the angles are great and aggressive but it has a Shimano Altus 3 x 9 drive train which I am not so happy with. 

So my questions are: is it possible to convert it to a 1 x 10/11/12? 

Is this a conversion that I could do? 

Or would it be better / more cost effective to simply buy something newer? 

Morning Brett!

i have a old get Zaskar 26inch hard tail that was on a 3x9 xt drivetrain 

recently i put a sunrace/NX eagle 1x12 drivetrain on it! Works like a charm and the HUGE rear chainring is like an E bike ????????

would highly recommend but can be abit pricey…

 

https://bike-addict.co.za/collections/drivetrain-components-1/products/shimano-deore-m6100-1-x-12-upgrade-kit

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/complete-groupsets/506267/11-speed-slx-groupset

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In 2013 I bought a Scott Scale with 3 x 10 Deore/XT.  I systematically upgraded bits as I came across good deals - Thompson Seatpost, Booth Carbon Bars, XT shifters and brakes.  Ritchey wheels.  All of this was done over a period of about 5 years.  I then brought in a Carbon Frame from China and built the Scott Components over into frame, and started again - used Rockshox Reba off the Hub, used Roval Carbon Wheels off the hub.  It's been such a great project.  One thing I did resist though was to change to 1x.  Without going into *that* discussion, I just didn't feel I needed to.  Best part - I needed a new FD because the Chinese Frame was clamp on - bought a used XTR FD for R200 (because, hey, everyone is throwing them away now!) and I recently bought the two outer blades for the XT 3x Crank for R700 because NOS and no-one wants 3x Crank parts anymore.....

Apart from my Giant XTC 26er which I regret ever selling this bike is the best I have ever owned and that includes a stint with a Bianchi Methanol.

I think upgrading and personalizing is absolutely worth it

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm going to purchase a new groupset (2nd hand) Shimano SLX, it is a 2 x 10 system.

The package comes with a crankset which is quite nice but I am unsure whether this will fit into my bottom bracket? 

The specs on the frame says I have a cartridge type BB - according to the Shimano site recommended BB is BB-UN300-K (for currently installed crankset)

The BB specs for the new crankset are - SM-BB71-41A or SM-BB70.

Currently installed crank is a Shimano FC-M371 and the new crank will be a Shimano FC-M677.

Will I be able to swap them out easily? Do I need to purchase something additional to make it work? or is it not possible?

 

 

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12 minutes ago, BrettS said:

I'm going to purchase a new groupset (2nd hand) Shimano SLX, it is a 2 x 10 system.

The package comes with a crankset which is quite nice but I am unsure whether this will fit into my bottom bracket? 

The specs on the frame says I have a cartridge type BB - according to the Shimano site recommended BB is BB-UN300-K (for currently installed crankset)

The BB specs for the new crankset are - SM-BB71-41A or SM-BB70.

Currently installed crank is a Shimano FC-M371 and the new crank will be a Shimano FC-M677.

Will I be able to swap them out easily? Do I need to purchase something additional to make it work? or is it not possible?

You need a new BB for this crankset, but it will just screw in to the existing BB shell. BB tools are fairly specific so you probably need to go to a shop to swop the BB over. (both the old BB and the new BB have unique tools).

Good news is you can ride the old crank until you have the new BB installed.

Edited by 100Tours
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21 minutes ago, 100Tours said:

You need a new BB for this crankset, but it will just screw in to the existing BB shell. BB tools are fairly specific so you probably need to go to a shop to swop the BB over. (both the old BB and the new BB have unique tools).

Good news is you can ride the old crank until you have the new BB installed.

Thanks so much, that gives me a little bit of hope.
I was planning on popping into a store to buy some additional tools as I will swapping the whole groupset over. 

Perhaps I will just strip the groupsets I have and take the new crank and frame so I can make sure I get the right BB.

Will be a fun project.

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1 hour ago, BrettS said:

Thanks so much, that gives me a little bit of hope.
I was planning on popping into a store to buy some additional tools as I will swapping the whole groupset over. 

Perhaps I will just strip the groupsets I have and take the new crank and frame so I can make sure I get the right BB.

Will be a fun project.

Building is fun

As a suggested shopping list to install a groupset-

- nice allen key set (also perhaps torx, but you can probably get by with a multitool here)

- cable cutter (side cutters are not up to the task)

- brake shoe tuner - trust me on this one :)

 

Extras, to collect over time:

- torque wrench (especially if you're working on carbon)

- Cable tensioner (basically a cunning set of pliers that gives you an extra hand to set cable tension)

- BB tools (about R250 each), also crank puller if that's applicable to your bikes. Helps for cleaning/regreasing the BB threads if they squeak. Also helpful if you need to fiddle with internal cable routing. But they don't see much use otherwise.

- deraileur hanger alignment tool (for when the bike has fallen over and your shifting is suddenly out)

 

Also a bleed kit for hydraulic brakes - if you're lucky then Shimano has started including basic bleed kits in their groupsets these days

Edited by 100Tours
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3 hours ago, 100Tours said:

Building is fun

As a suggested shopping list to install a groupset-

- nice allen key set (also perhaps torx, but you can probably get by with a multitool here)

- cable cutter (side cutters are not up to the task)

- brake shoe tuner - trust me on this one :)

 

Extras, to collect over time:

- torque wrench (especially if you're working on carbon)

- Cable tensioner (basically a cunning set of pliers that gives you an extra hand to set cable tension)

- BB tools (about R250 each), also crank puller if that's applicable to your bikes. Helps for cleaning/regreasing the BB threads if they squeak. Also helpful if you need to fiddle with internal cable routing. But they don't see much use otherwise.

- deraileur hanger alignment tool (for when the bike has fallen over and your shifting is suddenly out)

 

Also a bleed kit for hydraulic brakes - if you're lucky then Shimano has started including basic bleed kits in their groupsets these days

Thanks so much, I have a long way to go haha feel like i'm throwing myself into the deep end a little but I like a good challenge.

Going to be a busy Saturday fetching tools and parts but will be totally worth it in the end IF I get it right.

I'm not onto the carbon stuff just yet, need to let me wallet get a little fatter :) hopefully next year!

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