NotSoBigBen Posted April 4, 2022 Share Since I have noticed that this topic comes up quite often and there are certainly very knowledgeable guys on the hub ... how about giving some guidelines regarding initial install and setup tips in just one thread? Step by step with pics for us in the back por favor 😉 For example things I wonder about ... b-screw at installation, chain length, correct use of the 'red tool' General thoughts about chain line and how to check it Dexter-morgan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steady Spin Posted April 4, 2022 Share I initially worked from this SRAM tech video Seems like not all bikes are equal and this will mostly likely work for 90% of them. More wizardry advice will be great. Peron and NotSoBigBen 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebob Posted April 4, 2022 Share When using the red tool for the b-screw gap on a full sus bike you must have the rear of the bike sitting at the sag point to get the correct gap NotSoBigBen and DieselnDust 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted April 4, 2022 Share 28 minutes ago, thebob said: When using the red tool for the b-screw gap on a full sus bike you must have the rear of the bike sitting at the sag point to get the correct gap What would be the easiest way to do that? Does it mean sitting on the bike while someone else checks that or is there an easier way ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted April 4, 2022 Share 59 minutes ago, NotSoBigBen said: What would be the easiest way to do that? Does it mean sitting on the bike while someone else checks that or is there an easier way ... Probably letting the air out of the shock would be the easiest. You will obviously need a shock pump though. DieselnDust 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steady Spin Posted April 4, 2022 Share I put weight on the saddle and hung over using the camera on my phone to see the derailleur pulley. Not 100% accurate of graceful. Best to let air out of the shock and set it then. I chose not to do that since getting my shock back to 280psi is a massive pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted April 4, 2022 Share 2 hours ago, Steady Spin said: I initially worked from this SRAM tech video Seems like not all bikes are equal and this will mostly likely work for 90% of them. More wizardry advice will be great. ^ this and a bit of experience with derailleurs and you're good. The only things different from older RDs are the B gap and the fact that chain length is critical. Most people leave the chain a link too long and the shifting sucks as a result. It needs to be as short as it can be while still leaving enough to cycle through travel in the 50 / 52T. peetwindhoek and DieselnDust 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted April 4, 2022 Share 36 minutes ago, PeterF said: Probably letting the air out of the shock would be the easiest. You will obviously need a shock pump though. 'At the sag point' so not all the air? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steady Spin Posted April 4, 2022 Share 1 minute ago, NotSoBigBen said: 'At the sag point' so not all the air? I was also confused about this one. Tried it at both fully deflated and again at 30% sag. Neither worked on the Forbidden but 30% seemed to be the sweet spot for my Evil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W@nted Posted April 4, 2022 Share I am struggling with my gx axs setup. Instructions from sram says to do micro adjustment with chain on second cog from the top. If i get it to run silent on the second cog from the top, I get lousy shifting between the 9,10 and 11th cogs from the top. Also a very annoying ticking sound on the 4th smallest cog (possibly the gx cassette). If I di the micro adjustment to sort the noise out on the smaller gears, the shifting is terrible on the largest 2 cogs. derailleur hangar is brand new, but is it possibly misaligned to cause this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted April 4, 2022 Share A new hanger may not be perfectly straight once installed. Get a hanger alignment tool on it and see. W@nted 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steady Spin Posted April 4, 2022 Share 54 minutes ago, W@nted said: I am struggling with my gx axs setup. Instructions from sram says to do micro adjustment with chain on second cog from the top. If i get it to run silent on the second cog from the top, I get lousy shifting between the 9,10 and 11th cogs from the top. Also a very annoying ticking sound on the 4th smallest cog (possibly the gx cassette). If I di the micro adjustment to sort the noise out on the smaller gears, the shifting is terrible on the largest 2 cogs. derailleur hangar is brand new, but is it possibly misaligned to cause this issue? Is your quicklink the right way round? Sometimes this can be overlooked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W@nted Posted April 4, 2022 Share 22 minutes ago, Steady Spin said: Is your quicklink the right way round? Sometimes this can be overlooked. Will double check, but almost sure it is correct, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted April 5, 2022 Share 22 hours ago, W@nted said: I am struggling with my gx axs setup. Instructions from sram says to do micro adjustment with chain on second cog from the top. If i get it to run silent on the second cog from the top, I get lousy shifting between the 9,10 and 11th cogs from the top. Also a very annoying ticking sound on the 4th smallest cog (possibly the gx cassette). If I di the micro adjustment to sort the noise out on the smaller gears, the shifting is terrible on the largest 2 cogs. derailleur hangar is brand new, but is it possibly misaligned to cause this issue? initial adjustment should be done with the chain on the 5th, 6th or 7th sprocket. Micro adjustment should be conducted on the 2nd sprocket and 11th sprocket. Once the derailleur is set up in the middle of the cassette do the microadjustments on the 2nd and or 11th if the chain is ticking check the quiklink that both links are fully engaged. Ensure that the chain is running correctly on the NW tension pulley wheel (that's the bottom one) To check chain line get a 1m long steel rule and hold it thin edge against the inner side of the chainring. It now cross over the 7th sprocket on the cassette (counting from the drop out) or thereabouts - there is bit of tolerance involved since this is the bike industry that uses civil engineering tolerances and not mechanical Eng tolerances ChrisF 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted April 5, 2022 Share 10 minutes ago, DieselnDust said: initial adjustment should be done with the chain on the 5th, 6th or 7th sprocket. Micro adjustment should be conducted on the 2nd sprocket and 11th sprocket. Once the derailleur is set up in the middle of the cassette do the microadjustments on the 2nd and or 11th if the chain is ticking check the quiklink that both links are fully engaged. Ensure that the chain is running correctly on the NW tension pulley wheel (that's the bottom one) To check chain line get a 1m long steel rule and hold it thin edge against the inner side of the chainring. It now cross over the 7th sprocket on the cassette (counting from the drop out) or thereabouts - there is bit of tolerance involved since this is the bike industry that uses civil engineering tolerances and not mechanical Eng tolerances Much appreciated DnD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chadvdw67 Posted April 5, 2022 Share The ticking could be burrs on the cassette at those sprockets, my GX cassette did it as well on the same sprocket as yours, I think it is a fairly common problem DieselnDust 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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