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I drive 3.0 crank bearing replacement (not pivot bearing for suspension)


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Posted (edited)

I have a little play on the crank pedals, the suspension is butter smooth with no suspension creeking.

Is replacing the crank bearings the same as any other mtb ? Or is it a major job ? what bearings do i need ?

(i hear a clicking sound when pedalling as well as a little play on the crank arms) 

Edited by Dean111
Posted

Normal 2rs bearings , or wheel bearings

 

essentially bearings that are spaced 

 

pivot or Max bearings will work but are more expensive and will very quickly start making an annoying sound like a wheelbarrow 

Posted (edited)

Thank you sir.

So i need to order two 2RS bearings.

Is it a tough job to get the bearings out of an i-drive 3 or is it the same as most every mtb ?

I have heard it is quite a job to service the suspension mechanism on the idrive, but its not clear if i one would need to take out the whole mechanism (which requires a suite of tools)  to get to the crank bearings ?

Or is pulling the crank bearings on this bike an easier job ?

Edited by Dean111
Posted
15 minutes ago, Dean111 said:

Thank you sir.

So i need to order two 2RS bearings.

Is it a tough job to get the bearings out of an i-drive 3 or is it the same as most every mtb ?

I have heard it is quite a job to service the suspension mechanism on the idrive, but its not clear if i one would need to take out the whole mechanism (which requires a suite of tools)  to get to the crank bearings ?

Or is pulling the crank bearings on this bike an easier job ?

Depends on A ton of things 

 

Crank and BB standard would get yhe list of possible standards much narrower 

Posted

Based on those cranks I suspect you have an ISIS Drive Bottom Bracket. 

Might not be too common these days but a good bikeshop will be able to replace it. It is a sealed unit so you don't replace the bearings.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, TheoG said:

All that rust ... my swak hart 🙈

Agree I would never over my own living soul leave a bike to rust like that. It was a second hand purchase, the idrive mechanism is solid with no creaking so once the bottom bracket is replaced should be as good as new.

Edited by Dean111
Posted
2 hours ago, Steady Spin said:

Based on those cranks I suspect you have an ISIS Drive Bottom Bracket. 

Might not be too common these days but a good bikeshop will be able to replace it. It is a sealed unit so you don't replace the bearings.

Ok i found out that it is shimano BB ES-70 cartridge. Are they hard to find and what would it cost ?

 

Posted
5 minutes ago, Dean111 said:

Ok i found out that it is shimano BB ES-70 cartridge. Are they hard to find and what would it cost ?

 

Best you phone a bike shop or two in your area. 

Posted (edited)

Octalink BB. I have found a hubber who seems to have a few of them around - I'll let you know if he has a spare.

To replace them you will need:

1. a crank extractor to get the crank arms off the BB.  IceToolz Crank Extractor, Octalink/ISIS, #04D2 | IceToolz.eu
2. a BB tool to unscrew the BB from the shell https://www.icetoolz.eu/en/icetoolz-bb-tool-32mm-shimano-isis-drive-11b3/a5570

If you don't have the tools then rather let your lbs do it for you.

image.jpeg.0879afd69d5fc02b9999924b02914038.jpeg

Edited by 100Tours
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, 100Tours said:

Octalink BB. I have found a hubber who seems to have a few of them around - I'll let you know if he has a spare.

To replace them you will need:

1. a crank extractor to get the crank arms off the BB.  IceToolz Crank Extractor, Octalink/ISIS, #04D2 | IceToolz.eu
2. a BB tool to unscrew the BB from the shell https://www.icetoolz.eu/en/icetoolz-bb-tool-32mm-shimano-isis-drive-11b3/a5570

If you don't have the tools then rather let your lbs do it for you.

image.jpeg.0879afd69d5fc02b9999924b02914038.jpeg

Please thank you sir !

Edited by Dean111
Posted

From the one picture it looks like the BB could be square tapered.  In any event whatever is in there needs to come out before you buy or fit a new one because the axle length needs to be measured.  If the chainrings are shot you may as well buy a new crank and square tapered BB because it will be cheaper than a BB/chainring purchase.  I would rather go square taper than ISIS/Octolink simply due to price and availability.

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