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Convert 3X to 1X gearing on MTB?


DodgeB

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Hi folks, I have to replace my drivechain on my MTB, and thinking of converting from my older 3X9 Shimano HG to a 1X10 system. Looks like the 1X set-up will cost at least 1/3 more, and wondering if it is worth it? Any thoughts/advice most welcome.

Rodger

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It all depends on your hub's freebody, but 9 speed freebody should be able to go up to an 11speed cassette. 

Remove your current cassette and check what freebody it has, that'll guide you going forward to your current options

Its worth it - bigger % range, less clutter, less sh*t to break etc. But yes, at a higher price

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25 minutes ago, 117 said:

It all depends on your hub's freebody, but 9 speed freebody should be able to go up to an 11speed cassette. 

Remove your current cassette and check what freebody it has, that'll guide you going forward to your current options

Its worth it - bigger % range, less clutter, less sh*t to break etc. But yes, at a higher price

Can even get a 12 speed cassette for Shimano HG.  Only drawback is the smallest cog on the cassette can only be 11 teeth and not 10 as for Microspline or SRAM XD.

Edit: SRAM NX, e-thirteen and Sunrace make 12 speed HG cassettes as far as I know, might be other also.

Edited by TheoG
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11 tooth cog on the cassette has never made me feel like I need a lower gear. I ride SRAM NX on my bike and I'm very happy. It originally came with a GX 2x11 group set, but I upgraded to 1x12 after pulling the derailleur into the wheel on ride after popping a spoke.

The benefit with using the Shimano HG hub means I can also go with a Shimano cassette for much less than the SRAM cassettes go for. With Multispline and XD drivers you're committed to only using SRAM. 

I have a HT hanging on the wall in my garage with a dead rear hub and a 3x10 Deore group set. I'm also thinking of converting to 1x10 or maybe 1x11 and use it as a gravel grinder to get the base mileage going but recently I've been pretty lazy about that bike to be honest.

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2 minutes ago, Robbie Stewart said:

11 tooth cog on the cassette has never made me feel like I need a lower gear. I ride SRAM NX on my bike and I'm very happy. It originally came with a GX 2x11 group set, but I upgraded to 1x12 after pulling the derailleur into the wheel on ride after popping a spoke.

The benefit with using the Shimano HG hub means I can also go with a Shimano cassette for much less than the SRAM cassettes go for. With Multispline and XD drivers you're committed to only using SRAM. 

I have a HT hanging on the wall in my garage with a dead rear hub and a 3x10 Deore group set. I'm also thinking of converting to 1x10 or maybe 1x11 and use it as a gravel grinder to get the base mileage going but recently I've been pretty lazy about that bike to be honest.

 

1x11

 

38 or even a 40 on the front ... for a bit of top end on the gravel bike  (with the 38 I spin out on the faster rides ...)

 

Affordable

 

ROBUST

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3 minutes ago, ChrisF said:

 

1x11

 

38 or even a 40 on the front ... for a bit of top end on the gravel bike  (with the 38 I spin out on the faster rides ...)

 

Affordable

 

ROBUST

Thanks, I have the old 11x GX and cassette that came of the Spez. LBS told me the derailleur was bent, but I have a STRONG suspicion they only told me that to get me to upgrade to the 1x12. 

So all in all, I only need the chain and hub and chainring to get back to speed on that bike again.

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I did that exact change a few months ago, had a (low-end) 3x9 changed for a Shimano deore 1x11. I made the change because my front derailleur was touching my new (wider) tyres when the chain was on my smallest chainring, climbing up hard. I am actually very happy I made the change of drivetrain. The 1x11 is great for climbing and on the flat, only when riding downhill on a road do I miss a large chainring. Feels way more responsive. I also like the fact that I could keep the freehub, crankset and crank arms.

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I agree with all the comments to go for a 1x11 setup.

10 speed components are becoming harder to find and, in addition to this, all 10 speed derailleurs were designed to run with either a 2x or 3x setup. 11 speed was the first time where rear derailleurs were specifically designed to run in a 1x setup. I have ridden both 1x10 and 1x11 and the shifting is definitely better with the 1x11 setup.

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To be honest, I don't get the resistance towards 12sp.

Been using 12sp for a while now and was on 1x11 before that.  For me it work equally well with the benefit of an extra gear.

If you on a budget, sure it make much more sense to go 1x11.

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You want a rear mechanism with a long cage, this allows you to get to the 51t granny gear cassettes if you want to, but most cassettes go to the 46t which is fine for a long cage

Scratch around on the hub classifieds for a Shimano XT 11speed derailleur - best in class and bullet proof (read as idiot proof). Or, go for a normal Shimano Deore derailleur - slightly cheaper when new but just as bomb proof.  Check here: https://evobikes.co.za/product/shimano-deore-rd-m5100-11-speed-rear-derailleur/

Most of the Shimano rear derailleurs use the same internal components (clutches, springs, cages etc) and parts are readily available or its easy enough to scrounge parts off dead derailleurs and use them on yours. If budget allows, get an XTR shifter but if not, then XT is great or Deore shifter will be good enough. 

Lastly, Most older frames that have a 2x or 3x system have the RD cable system exposed to the elements. Meaning the outer cable is only on the front and rear of the bike and the middle section is exposed usually along the down tube. With a drill bit or needle file, open the cable outer holder on the frame up a bit to allow a full outer sleeve to be used from the shifter to the derailleur. This will prevent egress of water/mud/sand/grit into the bottom section of the outer and damage the cable system, meaning you wont have to replace it as often. 

Example: Open cable: 

image.jpeg.7898db88b78370f0f5204ffce4f83699.jpeg

Outer all the way along the down tubes: 

 

image.jpeg.692245df0d377d59268515e0f0b6af35.jpeg

Pics shamelessly nicked of the interwebs

Where are you based? There's a bunch of very helpful chaps on the forum that can get you going in the right direction with parts and save you school fees. 

Edited by 117
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