Pedal thread repair - Pretoria

[Tacet]

Hi all,

Does anyone know of a bike shop in Pretoria that can do pedal thread repairs?  I somehow stripped the thread on an XX1 crankarm (right hand side), so would love to get an insert in rather than replace the crankarm.

[Prince Albert Cycles]

10 minutes ago, Tacet said:

Hi all,

Does anyone know of a bike shop in Pretoria that can do pedal thread repairs?  I somehow stripped the thread on an XX1 crankarm (right hand side), so would love to get an insert in rather than replace the crankarm.

Rook Popich can do it . Take the arm to Bruce he will organize it

[Tacet]

18 minutes ago, Prince Albert Cycles said:

Rook Popich can do it . Take the arm to Bruce he will organize it

Thanks!

[Prince Albert Cycles]

10 hours ago, Tacet said:

Thanks!

Sorry my spelling it’s Rocco Popich 

[Tacet]

Update

I took it to Bruce's (on the super dirty bicycle, I was racing there to catch them before closing time).  They sent it on to Rocco, who put a heliocoil in.  Total cost about R650.  It seems pretty solid, though I'll reduce the number of pedal-swops I do a bit.  All in all, I'm very happy not to have had to replace XX1 cranks!

[RobertWhitehead]

10 hours ago, Tacet said:

Update

I took it to Bruce's (on the super dirty bicycle, I was racing there to catch them before closing time).  They sent it on to Rocco, who put a heliocoil in.  Total cost about R650.  It seems pretty solid, though I'll reduce the number of pedal-swops I do a bit.  All in all, I'm very happy not to have had to replace XX1 cranks!

I suppose you pay for the "know-how" and experience as a heli-coil and it's tool is less than one blue Mandela

[madmarc]

4 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said:

I suppose you pay for the "know-how" and experience as a heli-coil and it's tool is less than one blue Mandela

Its having the correct tools and inserts as well as the know how - I have both and would have probably charged the same

[betaboy]

Having experienced Bikehubber help. Priceless, for everything else, there is Matercard. 🤛🏻

[Tacet]

8 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said:

I suppose you pay for the "know-how" and experience as a heli-coil and it's tool is less than one blue Mandela

And availability. I couldn’t find 9/16” repair kits locally, and I didn’t want to try an M14 only to find out that the pedal doesn’t fit.

[madmarc]

32 minutes ago, Tacet said:

And availability. I couldn’t find 9/16” repair kits locally, and I didn’t want to try an M14 only to find out that the pedal doesn’t fit.

The repair Tap is 5/8" X 24 TPI not easy to find and the left hand tap is almost impossible to find locally  

[mazambaan]

It isn't Pretoria but I think I have a related problem.

Giant eTrance, LBS had it about a year ago for a few things including new motor bearings and took it upon themselves to replace my battered and loose flat pedals with some used plastic flat pedals that I really only noticed when I next rode the bike. I meant to raise the issue but didn't use them again (other grumbles) until I decided to replace the pedals, now also battered and loose, a few weeks ago.

Pedal spanner didn't budge them (actually stripped the soft BBB spanner) and neither did the 6mm Allen key, first just a long key, then a 3/8" drive breaker bar and finally a 1/2" breaker bar. Then heat, vice and Makita rattle gun, no hint of movement.  Yes, it was all loosen to the rear, left and right.

Bear with me; only now, defeated, do I inspect more closely. Only marking on pedals is K 1283 and VP-573-R (on one pedal) and L on the other. Now the plot thickens, maybe sickeningly, as R was on the LHS of the bike and the pedal slope was up where it is normally down 🤑.  The L pedal, with some markings on the 15mm hex was on the RHS 🙃. This is not good at all 👺.

Question: Can you really cross thread the pedals as these appear to have been and get them to seat?

Then: is this fixable, eventually pedals are extracted (I probably have to revert to said LBS)?

[madmarc]

22 minutes ago, mazambaan said:

It isn't Pretoria but I think I have a related problem.

Giant eTrance, LBS had it about a year ago for a few things including new motor bearings and took it upon themselves to replace my battered and loose flat pedals with some used plastic flat pedals that I really only noticed when I next rode the bike. I meant to raise the issue but didn't use them again (other grumbles) until I decided to replace the pedals, now also battered and loose, a few weeks ago.

Pedal spanner didn't budge them (actually stripped the soft BBB spanner) and neither did the 6mm Allen key, first just a long key, then a 3/8" drive breaker bar and finally a 1/2" breaker bar. Then heat, vice and Makita rattle gun, no hint of movement.  Yes, it was all loosen to the rear, left and right.

Bear with me; only now, defeated, do I inspect more closely. Only marking on pedals is K 1283 and VP-573-R (on one pedal) and L on the other. Now the plot thickens, maybe sickeningly, as R was on the LHS of the bike and the pedal slope was up where it is normally down 🤑.  The L pedal, with some markings on the 15mm hex was on the RHS 🙃. This is not good at all 👺.

Question: Can you really cross thread the pedals as these appear to have been and get them to seat?

Then: is this fixable, eventually pedals are extracted (I probably have to revert to said LBS)?

I'm a bit lost here

Are you saying th pedal marked L is mounted on the drive side crank and the R market pedal is mounted on the non-drive side ? 

[mazambaan]

2 minutes ago, madmarc said:

I'm a bit lost here

Are you saying th pedal marked L is mounted on the drive side crank and the R market pedal is mounted on the non-drive side ? 

Yebo, yes.

[madmarc]

Just now, mazambaan said:

Yebo, yes.

I would love to meet that mechanic that was able to thread a L-hand thread into a R-Hand threaded crank and visa versa - The threads should'nt even pick up. If they did then its seriously cross threaded - did you try loosening the L-hand pedal in the wrong direction ? Even cross threaded it should come out but the threads will be toast

Just another point when using a hex wrench depending on where you sitting when loosening the pedal. If you sitting on the drive side loosening the non-drive pedal (kind of working through the frame) with a hex wrench you turn the wrench anticlockwise. With even some good mechanics, they dont grasp the concept

L-hand thread is clockwise to loosen the pedal towards you, so you be sitting facing the pedal

L-hand thread is anti-clockwise to loosen the thread away from you, so you be sitting on the drive side working through or underneath the frame.

Opposite applies for the R-Hand pedal 

 

[droo]

1 hour ago, mazambaan said:

Question: Can you really cross thread the pedals as these appear to have been and get them to seat?

Then: is this fixable, eventually pedals are extracted (I probably have to revert to said LBS)?

Met genoeg geweld kan jy jou vinger in jou poephol afbreek.

Fixable with a set of inserts and the right oke to put them in, but if the threads are that knackered you may end up with a wobbly pedal. First check pricing on a replacement crankset, saving the old one may not be worth the effort.

[droo]

Just had a random thought, if both sets of pedals are flats it's possible the cranks are on backwards. It's possible with ebike cranks.