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Posted

I need some tips on prepping a respraying a alluminium mtb frame. Is it as simple as using paint stripper to remove the old paint and then simply respraying with some can spray? 

Posted

i wouldnt strip the paint. 

what u need to do is prep the bike well:

1st u need to clean the bike well

 

2nd u need to whipe the bike down with an oil removing solvent like prepsol

 

3rd flat the bike with water paper(water is no longer needed but its still called water paper.

 

4th u must fill in any small scrathes with some kind of kombi filler(that i always find is better to flat with wet water paper)

 

5th u need to prime the whole frame with a primer and once that is dry u need to flat that.

 

6th once u are happy that the frame is properly primed and there is no bare metal showing through you can again whipe down with prepsol using 1 cloth to apply the prepsol and one(clean) cloth to dry it.  you may now spray your frame. 
Weekend_Warrior2008-08-07 02:13:18
Posted

Finish off with several layers of clear coat.  As many as you think is neccessary and then 1 more.  Then allow at least a week or two for the paint to harden before reassembling the bike.

Posted
I need some tips on prepping a respraying a alluminium mtb frame. Is it as simple as using paint stripper to remove the old paint and then simply respraying with some can spray? 

 

mud dee contact slowpoke, and pocket bike.  they have played around with painting there motorbikes, and may have advice and equipment to help you.
Posted
Finish off with several layers of clear coat.  As many as you think is neccessary and then 1 more.  Then allow at least a week or two for the paint to harden before reassembling the bike.

 

I would not paint that many layers. As few and thin as possible. YOu can pollish it shiny. And mask everything that has a thread or opening.

 

 
Posted

Good advice here but one more tip if I may. Paint on a sunny day, especially now in winter. Dont start too early in the morning when it is still cold.

 

The paint just behaves better when everying is nice and warm.

 

 
Posted

Did mine earlier in the year. I had stripped it completely as I'd originally intended anodizing it.

 

When I eventually decided to paint I just washed it, wiped it off with a little bit of thinners to remove any oily residue.

 

Painted with 2K, which uses a special primer. Came out beautifully. AFAIK it doesn't HAVE to be sanded between coats. I didn't, except to remove tiny pieces of grit/dust as I obviously didn't have a spraybooth and some dust got onto the wet paint.

 

After about 4 months it's holding up a LOT better than the original paint. The only two marks on the frame were as a result of direct contact with rocks in tight rock gardens.

 

 

 

 

Posted

the advice above is right. the prepping is the most important part - that's why i'm taking so long with my motorbike cos i do have to remove all the old paint (the first non-factory paint job (and 2 more since then) were done with duco (sp) paint - so it blisters and peels). KF's brother, however, was able to simply sand his FJ down a bit and then primt - it had only ever had it's original paint job.

 

NB, use correct paint - do NOT use duco (spray paint). also use a decent spray gun for the painting.

 

very useful tip from pocketbikes... when you've done a layer of primer and are ready to flat it, spray lightly with contrasting paint - use your 600 or 800 paper to sand this off completely - it gets into any ripples and you will easily see where it's not yet smooth.
Posted

 

YOu can pollish it shiny.

 

The beauty of 2K is that if it is correctly applied it does not require any polishing. It's gives a smooth and shiny finish.

 

 

 

 

And mask everything that has a thread or

opening.

 

 

 

I had an old BB that we inserted to protect the threads. Inserted old bolts into all rear-suspension holes. Inside of the headtube we packed with a bit of grease and just trimmed the paint that got onto the headtube-face off with a stanley knife.

 

 

 

Posted

 

Did mine earlier in the year. I had stripped it completely as I'd originally intended anodizing it.

 

When I eventually decided to paint I just washed it' date=' wiped it off with a little bit of thinners to remove any oily residue.

 

Painted with 2K, which uses a special primer. Came out beautifully. AFAIK it doesn't HAVE to be sanded between coats. I didn't, except to remove tiny pieces of grit/dust as I obviously didn't have a spraybooth and some dust got onto the wet paint.

 

After about 4 months it's holding up a LOT better than the original paint. The only two marks on the frame were as a result of direct contact with rocks in tight rock gardens.

 

 

 

 

[/quote']

 

Cool you have before and after pics?

 

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