Jump to content

Your DH Machine


Mitch21

Recommended Posts

Mr Mayhem, you'd be wise to heed Cap's advice...

 

Be very very careful with anything sandpaper. I just took two pics on my kitchen counter for you. First one is a 1990's Cannondale M-something which took my boet something like 2 weeks to sand down to a finish that I describe as "crap". Second pic is his M3, which he got down to the equivalent of their factory raw finish using an expensive stripper (will get the name for you, I think it's about R200 or something for a small bottle) in a long afternoon of painting, peeling and scrubbing with a brush of average household roughness. No crapness here, and it's in perfect state for paint, which is what the plan currently is.

 

With the sandpaper, you'll have an underlying crapness of scratch which paint is not going to cover up. Trust me, I've seen it evoke tears!

 

post-3655-0-22632700-1313787481.jpg

 

post-3655-0-39803400-1313787502.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 208
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

that raw look is deadly! :thumbup:

 

I see plascon has a new eco-friendly paint remover on the market. Plascon Removall. comes in different varieties, the strongest titled multilayer paint remover. got some in a tub here, but havent used it yet.

But let us know what your bro used MH. Always keen to know what's good out there in the way of paint remover.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lolz...

 

MH - I caught Cap already. The ref to paper was purely for woodworking projects (80 grit for stubborn as feck lumpy ****, 1000 grit for mirror-like finishes on hardwood surfaces before application of wax)

 

The only time I'll be using paper for is a very light rubdown between coats of paint. And then it'll be with the 1000 grit. Still need to get the stripper though.

 

Plus - being a metallic finish, the prep is even more important. So there can't be ANY gouges or blemishes. If I had access to an acid bath, I'd use that. Unfortunately, I don't. So the manual way it shall have to be!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

light sanding between coats?? 1600 or up waterpaper. I'd actually go straight to 1800 or 2000 if it's between coats, especially if between the clear coats. i used to spray cars. dont ask.:P

Edited by Capricorn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Same frame for 2012, but the suspension got some major changes:

 

Went from Marzo 888 RC3 EVO to 2011 RS Boxxer

Vivid 5.1 to 2011 Vivid R2C, still with DSP Ti-coil

Mygirl has new shoes: minions to Schwalbe Muddy Mary EVO front & rear, still tubeless.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same frame for 2012, but the suspension got some major changes:

 

Went from Marzo 888 RC3 EVO to 2011 RS Boxxer

Vivid 5.1 to 2011 Vivid R2C, still with DSP Ti-coil

Mygirl has new shoes: minions to Schwalbe Muddy Mary EVO front & rear, still tubeless.

 

Nice! :thumbup:

 

When can I take you up on that offer of a spin? Planning any riding this coming weekend? Would be interesting to compare the feel to my boet's M3...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice! :thumbup:

 

When can I take you up on that offer of a spin? Planning any riding this coming weekend? Would be interesting to compare the feel to my boet's M3...

 

Any time MH :) Hoping to hit up Tokai this weekend.

 

Nice man, doing good, you? You riding Paarl in Feb?

 

Oritey hey, just a tad busy and super hot and bothered :). Yep, hoping to be there come Feb :thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout