2 or 3 Blades on MtB?

[Dicky DQ]

What's the advantage of going for a two blade front MtB setup vs the conventional three blade setup?

Apparently if the ratios are chosen properly you can get a better spread of gears where it matters most and you don't loos much else.

Can anyone offer assistance?

[Psycho]

You could save a few grams on the 2 blade if you'r that way inclinedsmileys/smiley5.gif

 

I know that JP Pearton says that the 2 blade setup prevents him from taking it easy once he's bonked.

 

I have a tripple Xt set, and too be honest hardly ever use the small. Used it trying to go up the cement road at Rhodes last year(30%+ gradsmileys/smiley11.gif)smileys/smiley36.gifsmileys/smiley36.gif

 

I find that the more you ride the less you start using the small bladesmileys/smiley4.gif

 

[CVANC]

I've heard the Free State is flat - you only need 1 blade. smileys/smiley36.gif

[SARA]

U also get a way better chain line, save weight. yip. I have considered it as well, just start paying more attention to which gears you use and most importantly when climbing how often do you actually use the granny. As long as you arent gonna miss her 2 blades is the way to go, ever considered going back to 8 speed? Now there is another interesting discussion.

[Dicky DQ]

I think I am currently too heavy to ditch the granny, but if the ratios are avaliable it is probably worth looking into. At the moment I am so frustrated because I just seem to be going slower and slower when climbing.

I think trying something new might invigorate me and get me going uphill better.

I also seem to find that even though MtB has more climbing and my ave HR is higher road riding seems to be harder over the whole ride. (possiblt more time to rest the legs on the downs)

Has anyone else experienced the same?

[SARA]

Ah yes. I have been mtn biking for 4 years and recently got a road bike (5 months ago). I completely blew myself riding the road bike in the first couple of weeks because it doesnt feel as intense as mtn biking. I pushed too hard and overtrained to get the mtn bike feeling. The road bike is almost continuous pedalling so although your HR may not be that high it is always elevated. Mtn biking u are either high in the red zone or chilling on the downhill. They are like 2 totally different sports.

That feeling that you are going slower and slower. Yip I think everyone gets that. You are probably getting faster and faster actually. I think the fitter you get the harder you push. You think that getting fitter makes it easier? Nope you just push harder and go faster.

[NotSoBigBen]

SARA - you are so right, I do believe that some well known cyclist once said 'it never gets easier, you just go faster'.

[Velouria]

Or you can just use two blades to out psych every one else.

 

And Greg Lemond said "it never gets easier, you just go faster"

[Thug]

I always find it easier to go up the hills at Sabie in granny, but end up doing most of my training in the middle blade.

 

There are very few people who would notice the weight saving of removing granny gear!

 

[Dicky DQ]

Thanks for your input, but i am still interested in what the ratios would be. Anyone have an idea?

I think some ppl are talking about a 39/48 front and a 36/12 rear....Not so sure though.

[stringbean]

Having ridden both triple and double on MTB i prefer riding the double crankset.The only time you might need the granny is if you are doing lap racing.

29/44 works best and you only lose the top three granny gears of your tripple but if you are in those gears anyway you might as well run because the speed is the same.Setup for front derailer is a bit difficult when running a 2 by 9 but i found a road front derailer works best.There are not many cranks that you can run a 29/44, middleburn & frm. the best to use.Chainreactioncycles have middleburn and they make quality stuff.

[Marius]

I agree with SARA, dick, you ding dong, you not getting slower, you are actually getting faster, trust me, it was a lot easier passing you a few months ago going up hill, now I can hardly stay with you.

what kinda cassett will you use at the back with that Middelburg Crank StringBean? I was looking at buying the triple but you guys are startign to make sence.

can you post a link that that crank on CRC??

Marius38908.562025463

[MWdeJager]

Dick, since I'm riding the entry level GT 3.0, it came with a 28/38/48 chainring set.  I used to use this bike as my roadbike also and the 48 was still too small to keep up with the roadbikes.smileys/smiley5.gif   That said, yesterday at Dewdale, I did not use the 48 once.

I have a 32/11 (8 speed) at the back, and this is plenty.  I'm sure a 28/38 with any combination at the back, as long as it goes down to at least a 12, will work OK for myself.  I only used the 32 at the back, on that really steep section where Marius got dropped initiallysmileys/smiley36.gif.

I think most of the guys with their expensive MTBs are climbing in too low a gear.  You have much better momentum when you use a 28 as your granny ring.

My 2c

[TitusTi]

The best spread for a double works with  a 29 - 44 front and a 11-34 rear. I used to use this when I raced, the thing is this also means that most of your riding has to be done a bit faster. The cool thing is it psyches the hell out of the opposition and you have to go faster because you don't have a cop out gear. You must use a dedicated double crankset and BB, then you can cut down on your Q-factor as well as normalising you chainline, another good trick is to use a longer crankset, you'll get better leverage off a heavier gear.

[stringbean]

www.chainreactioncycles.com/Kits.aspx?ModelID=3345

or visit middlebern website www.middleburn.co.uk/

11-34 at the back

[SARA]

ah speaking of middle burn do you guys know that the yare now bringing them into the country! hooray!