Mecnic

Ja will work just put 2 spacers drive side and one non drive side and the crank will work if in doubt have a bike shop install it

I have pm'ed him but as yet no reply but I suspect he might be away for the long weekend. I will let you know as soon as I get hold of him.

Thank you

A few months ago there was someone who could make replacement parts for forks especially the adjusters and knobs ect from poly carbonate or some form of plastic. Can anyone remember who this was and maybe have contact details for him Thanks

Personally I have an anthem and am running a fox much better, the fox is ultimately the better option

The manitou agents are also in the Cape, butboth shocks will work

Last time I re did a lever the kit was under R100 that included new bushes for the lever and all the internal piston o rings ect the Juicy parts are alot Cheaper than the new Elixer parts. I might have a few of the lever bushes laying aroud and let you know. Easiest is ask the LBS to get you a price on a Juicy lever service kit

Jucy servic kits are relatively in expensive the Elixers are expensive totally different designs betwen the two.

Those are gone hey, Retire them

Just make sure I do think helmets are taxed heavily just do a search and see how much the tax is there are lots of threads on this forum concerning that.

Lack of passion, and have you noticed some players look a bit large around the mid section Thats my theory

What is the eyey to eye of that RP2?

I would say from what I have seen here in Bloem the felt range is a bit over priced. Look at options from silverback, KHS, Merida there are many brand have a look on obike.co.za there are some great bikes at good prices there. Right now I would by for value for money better parts at a lower price. LEt us know on what you decide

I'll see if I can get hold of an older model Anthem rider for you. Will let know asap

What year anthem is doe the rear shox mount vertically or horizontially? Maybe post a pic of the frame so we can see. My anthem' rear shox measures as follows 165mm eye to eye but the frame is a 2010 Anthem x the shox mounts vertically in the frame and the bike has 4" of rear travel, I'm not shure if the shox are the same for the older anthem version where the shox mount horizontially and the bike had 3.5" of rear travel. Let us know

Just remember the extra tax slapped on top of the price you pay overseas and the crash replacement policy won't be honoured here.

The website looks great. Easy to navigate, informative yet simple. I like it. Keep up the good work.

@ Stewie 911: Note: That ove lubing was on the do not list but I'll edit it to avoid further confusion. apologies If I gave the wrong impression. I drop a small amount on the each chain link as well but ultimately there is some excess that must be wiped off, the shifting through the gears is just a habit of mine to make sure everything is running smooth and silent and to squeeze/force out any excess lube out of the rollers. Basically to ensure all is clean and ready for the next ride. @ Cat I: I clean my bike on average as follows Dusty conditions: Once a week or fort nightly as it does pick up dust on each ride anyway. Muddy bad conditions: As soon as possible and service it at the same time. How long it take: It depends on how dirty my bike is a quick wash takes about 30 min then its just dusty. If it's really dirty takes quite a while, (we talking mud and gunk here) it takes longer because at the same time I service the bike as well stripping it down cleaning all the parts and re grease and re build everything. Cleaning the cassette I take it off as it is a hard to reach part and it so much easier to just take it off ivest in a cassette tool and a chain whip and have a mechanic show you how, basic bike maintanence is easy to learn and those skills are invaluable to any cyclist. Cleaning the stantions (shiny bits) is great will help the fork alot there is no such thing as to much maintaince but don't fix it if it's not broke a clean fork and drive train is always a good thing to have. @AapSkommel: We all know chain lube is like religion here on the hub, I use to use Squirt and I switched over to Purple Extreme reasons to follow: Squirt builds up and is hard to clean especiallly if someone overlubes the chain ect and to get it off a rim is almost impossible. once it dried is dam near impossible to get off any thing with out a scrub brush and some type of solvent. (Mechanic, not me, overlubed my bike and messed on my rim and neglected to clean it or tell me) The purple Extreme is working well so far I have read a few good review on the product and after my squirt clean up nightmare I made the switch almost the same Idea as Chainl 5 but not exactly. I want to try Chain L 5 because of the great reviews I have read on the product (upwards of 5 different sources), after reading the marketing material on the product it makes absolute sense! The price isn't to bad considering purple extreme is R110 at my lbs so R120 isn't to bad and you use a small amount so it should last a while. I must admit that I think people who moan about it use it wrong, the application instructions are lengthy but still do it right and then voice an opinion, don't blame an operater error on a product. Will get in contact with you to order some as soon as my purple extreme is finished and I have some spare cash. Will even right a review on it for you. @ Mojo man Thanks for that great tip. Never even thought of that.

I think buycycle must be looked at in a local South African perspective. Buycycle's main market is SA that is there focus, they buy from local SA Suppliers and provide SA based back up. Although they are anti grey import or parallel imports (what ever you want to call them) simple economics dictates that people will always go for what is cheaper and suits them whether it means buying in SA and having it shipped to Switzerland. Personally I don't think it has anything with them creating any kind of import or whatever you want to call it that's just capitalism at its best, remember the internet has made the world a small place and surly custom fees and duties will be paid like any other legitimately imported product into an external country. I say go crc, crc, buycycle, local shops and any person importing and trying to make a living. As I am a firm believer in free capitalism and ultimately the customer dictates what sells and what doesn't and that must not be forgotten.

I use a bucket with warm soapy water start from the top down, wet any mud that may be on the frame first so its easier to get off, rinse with Clean water I use a bucket aswell to save water and I have seperate clothes and sponges to seperate dirty and clean when all the soap and dirt is gone use Mr Min to polish up the frame using a soft cloth. Parts it realy depends on how dirty they are, a greasy chain I use warm water and soap and scrub I prefer not to use solvents and my chain has a powerlink to make removal easier all of this is done off the bike in my case. Relube using your favourite lube applying it sparingly, currently I use purple extreme, apply following instructions carefully, but after reading ChinL 5 review I'll try that next apparently its amazing product if applied properly. Depending on your technical skills always helps to lube and inspect the cables and housing, shift up to the biggest vgear in the rear cassete release the cable by shifting down to the lowest gear with out turning the crank there should be plenty of slack in the cable to unhook the housing from the frame pull the end off the housing check if the inner metal linin is coming out if so have them replaced, apply lube to a cloth and wipe the cable (not to much) push the end back, rehook everything and turn the crank all should be okay, Mr Min has teflon in it therefore can be used to lube cavbles same process as above. Invest in a cassettte brush it helps to get into the hard to reach places like the cassete. Remember a clean bike is a happy bike. The Do Not list: What ever you do avoid doing any of the following. Use a pressure washer close to the hubs, bb, headset or any bearing for that matter. Water gets in and realy messes thing up. Use solvent like petrol or diesel, In extreme cases I have use parrafin to get stuck on bad grease off a cassete but this was done off the bike in a bucket. Chain is best cleaned with warm soapy water and elbow grease. Solvents dissolve out the lube/ grease inside the roller which is bad as it dam near impossible to get it back in there. Scrub mud of a frame rather soak it until it comes off easy, the dirt gets between the cloth and frame and its like sandpaper and will leave nasty scratches. Overlube the chain ,Rule of thumb aplly a drop on each roller, shift through all the gears or turn the crank a few times to force out any additional lube between the rollers (optional) and wipe off excess with a clean cloth (compulsary. I lube after a ride or after a cleaning session that way the bike is ready for the next ride dry lube has dried and wet lube will protect the chain and creek in by capiliary action ect. Any other question feel free to ask or add anything I may have over looked or missed.

It looks like any other shox pump, should be good, I have 4 of the thing branded from Rock shox to Fox to a no-name version to a ryder with a removable gauge (not great as the oring cracks and now it leaks there, I have totally removed the gauge and must still get around to fixing it I use it in my camelback when out on the trail) Except for the Ryder the other 2 Fox and no name are the same even thought the branding looks different and the rock shox has a slightly different design but they all work well. the bag pipe looks like the fox and no name so you can feel good pirchasing that and the shop I use to work at uses that exact one in the workshop so it'll be fine.

The alloys used are In themselves tough but still is alloy which is a softer form of metal. The housings and hydraulic hoses are plastic coated which cause friction on a microscopic level, it acts like very very fine sandpaper and eventually wears it away. This process is accelerated by dust and mud. That's my theory anyway.

The fox is pretty much fit and forget, just have it serviced and maintain it like you would any fork and you should have many trouble free kms. I have an 2006 Fox f80Rl on my hard atil and its still going strong.

okay I'll give in B) Post a picture of the gold bolt so we know what we are looking for, (us mere mortals don't ride kcnc) and stake thread type m4 m5 ect and the size of the allen key head in question.

My feeling is that the fox will match up almost perfectly with the Fox at the back will be a great combo. Its just a personal thing I like to match front and rear suspension packaged if I can.