Mecnic

Ordered the product Applied it, Following intructions to the letter (Even heated the chain with a hairdryer and heated the lube in a cup of warm water) So far 3x test rides in with out a relube and the chain is running dead quiet some black along the inside of the chain nothing a cloth can't sort.(I have seen much worse from other lubes) Conditions of the ride was dry and dusty and so far there is no "grinding paste" build up as with other overly applied wet lubes This stuff so far is awesome, will continue to ride and update.

Specialized Phenom 143 width

Same thing Mavic crossmax XL https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/86185-internal-corrosion-on-tubeless-rims/page__p__1181505__fromsearch__1#entry1181505

Ja look SCAM, Trek Dealer is Cycle World If the bike are that cheap we would know. No Bike shop anywhere near Church Street, what is his name and number for interest sake?

What I have short legs and big calves!!! Who said it doesn't look good???????

Maybe Stans knows about this problem. Who knows maybe, Stans like Asbestos, was at the time, a good idea and they didn't quite know what exactly it all does like eating rims and destroying the enviornment.

Howsat I saw them today at my LBS for R120, I'm down in Bloemfontein though

Apparently Stans has released an ECO Version, I suppose this is ammonia free but will have to check

I've always wanted a set of those Chris King salt and peper shakers

How wide is your bb shell 68 or 73mm, For shimano bbs 68mm = 2 spacers drive side 1 non drive, 73mm = 1 drive side 0 non drive side

You can buy pre cut plates from crank brothers they are called "shoe shields" I'm not sure how much they cost though maybe about R120+- , but if someone can cheaply lazer cut you some protection plates do it.

They were just quickly snapped on my phone, will take some proper pics tomorrow it at my LBS, Its odd that sealent is capable of this but as JB said would be interesting to see what the PH of some sealents are

I have been involved in and around bike shops for the last 7 years and have seen alot of thing from dumb to strange but this, this is a first, see pics. It seems the sealent has eaten away the matel of the rims resulting in it looking like swiss cheese and it's on both the front and rear wheel and not just on one spot on the rim, it seems everywhere where the black coating is scratched its started to eat away at the rim from the inside What's your opinion? My theory is either the client cleaned hs rims with some volatile solvent or corrosive liguid of sorts or he made some odd mix of home brew sealent and it caused one huge chemical reaction almost like it became corrosive?

Thanks

I now see wht you are talking about and to be honest it does look like a glorified bearing puller, can you imagine if that tool isn't used properly how much damage it could o if it slips? I for the life of me cannot understand why Campagnolo makes parts that require that level of specialist tools, the new Carnks look like a copy of shimano but it seems Campagnolo didnt want to use the tried and trused Shimano pinch bolt design?

How did you manage a 140mm up front?

With SPDs I had bad ITB issues switched to Egg Beater Candys ITB are no more, I believe the main reason for this is the higher degree of float they give me I even switched the cleats to 20 degrees, I have flat feet so my ankles have collapsed and my feet point kind of outwards, Like a duck???? Duck footed maybe???? You may argue setup and cleat placement ect but still ITB issue is gone with Egg Beaters and believe it or not the cleats are in exactly the same spot and placement as the old SPD cleats so works for me But so far so good Egg Beaters for me, but I do use shoe shields as Egg beaters have a nasty habit of eating away at the sole of your shoe, only down side solved with a simple bit of stainlees steel.

P.S I am the proud owner of all 3 the above mentioned item, I even managed to get hold of the Park Tool Pint Glass now all I still nedd is the coffee mug and bar stool, Call me obsessive

After further investigation: Park tools does make the tool required "peeining the head of the rivet"(Ct 11) this is however a specialist tool only for that purpose and will not press the chain pin in for that you need a normal 11 spd compatible chain breaker for that (CT 4.2 Master chain tool) In regards to the ultra torque bearings Park tools to the rescue again they make the required puller and press (CBP-3) Links to the Tools CT 4.2 CT 11 CBP 3 Links to buy said tools CBP 3 CT 11 Unfortunately can't seem to find the Park tool Ct 4.2 on CRC Hope this post helps

Might aswell add my 2c I do admit that R1550 is EXTREMELY pricey for a chain breaker, and in general campagnolo parts are over priced, but there are certain things to consider: 1: As taken from the Campagnolo website: It is a unique tool that deforms the end of the pin to prevent the chain from breaking. This is a no compromise chain tool constructed from high quality parts designed in house at Campagnolo for that perfect fit and will last you a life time. To install Campagnolo 11spd chain requires an unprecedented degree of precision. Which is why Campagnolo requires you to use their UT-CN300 chain tool for installation. By using the UT-CN300, the chain is perfectly stabilized, allowing you to install the Ultra Link with the exacting care the design demands. 2: If the chain fails and you land on your face, who bears the onus and ultimate responsibility for the chain failure, is it the mechanic using a generic chain breaker even though installation intructions state only the Campagnolo tool should be used, is it you the rider if you work on your own bikes? To conclude I would say it is the responsibility of the shop, if they are willing to supply the groupset to you ultimately they should then have the correct tools to work on the parts they supply. Just a few thoughts

They use a specially modified free hub body tha is capable of running a 9t instead of the standar 11t

If the information required in the Tech section can be found on page 1, feel free to derail the thread from there as you, The Hub User sees fit.

Yet another "Unwritten Rule"

Get your local bike shop to give Cape Cycles a call they are the SRAM Agents And take special care when tightening the lever to the bar the technique is as follow THere are arrows on the clamps in the direction these arrows point tighten all the way down to the leverbody then snug up the other side. Note: the gaps will not be the same, it boggles me why, but thats how its suppose to be

The rotor sits on those stubs, and is held on by the lockring, no need for the bolts to be used