Thermophage

You need a bigger one

Impact socket is the simplest to find ye. But honestly a good shifting spanner is the easiest and still safe as it's basically un-chamfered.

35km/hr at 100kg + 16kg bike will do that. It's CONSIDERABLY more energy that the tyre needs to deal with than say me at the same speed. 1/2mv^2 and all

Tyre pressure and rider mass at bottomout on the SG casing? I should have noted mine too actually...74/5kg kitted and 24PSI on 2018 Transition Patrol with 168mm rear travel (Cascade Link). These are useful and interesting comparisons to make me thinks

Taken from manufacturers sites, but i weigh every tyre i get and most at my LBS and the comparison to stated masses is well within manufacturing error IMO.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dujFCFfN0vkw47tZo96Hr3jJWQ9IVTVdhHPagejZxNw/edit?usp=sharing

Especially on my red groad bike with the skinny tyres. Haven't ridden there in many many months.

Currently the Big Betty 275x2.4 in Addix Soft (kinda like MaxxTerra). I have another brand new one for sale (shameless plug) if you are on 275 - not available in RSA because nobody talks about casing with any regularity here, so importers don't (generally) either . My current go to rear tyre is actually the Spez Butcher in Grid Gravity for both grip, rolling resistance (yes, it rolls better than the DHR2 and the Big Betty in my experience) and sidewall protection. The Grid Gravity is stronger than a DoubleDown and an lighter than Maxass DH. The SuperGravity is stronger than the DH from Maxxis and similar weights...I have a spreadsheet if anyone is interested.

Which casing DHR, that's the NB bit. EXO/EXO+ for the rear can eat a bag of dicks. I can kill them on a mistake easy at 30PSI, never mind the fact I feel the tread pattern has no straight line braking traction. Conversely I can run a Schwalbe SG casing on the rear at 24PSI on TM, Tokai, Jonkers and not ping a rim even under mistakes :S And no inserts needed either woop woop. We need to talk far more about casing in addition to tread pattern when it comes to tyres and you'll quickly find Maxxiss is not necessarily the best for your riding preference.

Nope I just run tyres with better sidewalls. I.e. Schwalbe's Super Gravity or Specialised Grid Gravity on the rear. Lighter than krappier sidewall plus insert.

Hopefully something slow and technical and less prone to hurting people

Unlikely considering there's nothing else similar on the trail network. Unless there;s something in the works.

Is there even enough gradient to warrant such a massive berm? ????

Hahahah I try not to say "commit" as often it's taking as saying "don't be a kitteh". But let's be real. You dont have to be an excellent rider to know what you SHOULD be doing. Well at least not IMO.

You can learn. Will not take you long if you try. But yes, it does feel VERY foreign at first and a too long (subjective and eprsonal) a stem will also make it feel worse unfortunately Get a skills session or two, it will do wonders for your riding and help out the local skills coaches. A "reasonable" example of body position coming into steeper/rocky bump to roll over.

Hahahaha I have no problem with any socks, hell you should see mine...sometimes you can't cos they're too short The type/body position I'm describing, unfortunately doesnt come naturally, but once you focus practice it you will seriously level up your riding mental game and tackling steeper things (not that we have many steep official trails - no, Black Rhino is not steep) will be significantly simpler. But we alllll find ourselves riding with *** body position from time to time...myself more often that I am probably even aware of.

TBH both of those work fine...the body position in that picture is what is the difficult part and is increasing the probability of your front wheel going bye bye. Shift weight forward, chest more over the bars, elbows out, not tucked backwards and you will find you have WAY more control even if you want to putter down there at a snails pace. That rearward body position unweights the front so you have no grip and the elbow position will mean you are more likely to fold the arm when hitting a compression and loose control and then well...

When I first rode it in 2012 29 years old, 3 years riding (only moved to CT) and rode completely blind without issue. I think you'll find most people are overthinking it and also don't bother to take the time to upskill off the trail or to session pieces of trail. Another thing that helps a lot is simply getting your saddle out the way when trying new/scary things. IN the land of pre-droppers we did this even.

Why do you think for years now we've been asking for slower, more technical trails and not more high speed deathtraps. Anyway, it's still a fun boy, but man is it severely overgraded both IRL and in people's minds

Prepare for being dragged over the coals for that "Cobra is honestly not a hard trail to ride". Yes, it's a blue and needs regrading for the benefit of the community :( OK that's me out

200h...oh **** I was out by an order of magnitude...

There are, generally, two types of oil in a fork and they serve a different purpose. Lower leg oil mostly for lubrication and is generally not marketed as "fork oil" -- i.e. the stuff you have there. And then there is damper oil, which has poorer lubricating properties but better damping characteristics - i.e. what you have. For lowers oil I've (and many a bike shop) have used the Castrol Magnatec Fully Synthetic 5w30 (you'll have to check, there are multiple threads on here about it) - cheap and available at Midas. Some forks use a different oil in each leg of the lowers, so just check service guide So your stuff will work, but far from ideal and a trip to Midas or wherever to get a more appropriate oil is cheap.

Then surely tossing em under the bus on a Friday afternoon is a little overreacting? Things break occasionally...right out the store. It sucks, but it can and does happen with anything. What is more important, as I am sure you care aware, is how the shop/seller etc deals with it.

I assume you contacted the store etc and got the issue resolved considering they are brand new before relying on a Friday post? Would be worth noting the model number/code etc. Anyway, get hold of your dealer first if you haven't. Enough Friday for now. peas

Fair enough, but not what you mentioned earlier when you said "all hang on would interfere with the spoiler". Look, tbh, he's better off getting something like the Freeride or a different car if he want's to get around the current problem then