Barend de Arend

Things are unlikely to be better here. Same article: in the US in 2007 it was 25% I'm really considering riding on orange juice, water, and mixing gels from honey. Or riding on whiskey and steak.

10% of supplements are contaminated by banned products (Europe.) 25% in US. Kinda leaning towards natural products now http://www.slowtwitch.com/Features/2013_Euro_Supplement_Testing_3903.html I'd like a bit more detail of the study, but this is much worse than I expected.

Limit is set by the FD (look for "capacity" of your FD) This will be something like "16 T" I think the biggest spread will be 52x36. (52 - 36 = 16) You can go beyond the limit, but the effectiveness depends a bit on: - length of chainstays (how skew will the chain be?) - shift ramps on the rings themselves. If these don't work shifting is possible, but will grind more. - how much you can adjust your FD up/down, and if you can put a washer between the FD and hanger to move it further back. If you've got the rings already, I say try it.

24 VAs, I think, started. I just ran out of toes counting.

If you get new wheels, you could just move the discs across. You don't need new wheels, though: just tyres. As others have stated, I wouldn't bother. If you do a lot of road races, get a roadie. If you're only doing the 94.7, ride your knobblies.

Why would you need brakes? You need a cutthroat shaver: just shave all the knobblies off Seriously: all you need are other tyres. Just like you can size up 2.0 to 2.2 to 2.5 for rougher MTB, you can size down for road.

Greg was the first power-meter user. He was Ulrich Schoberer's first customer.

They were these really cool yellow "Sub 3" on black shirts way back when I did my first Argus. I had just done Sub 6, and was pretty chuffed, so I wanted to have two shirts. But they wouldn't let me.

Yes. Remember the special Argus Sub-3 cycling shirts? No.

So Cervelo Testteam used indoor trainers to warm up, and so does Garmin using Cervelo bikes? Matt (@cervelo) uses an indoor trainer Cervelo.com has Indoor Trainer sessions ... (use Google) and Cervelo South Africa doesn't like them? Use the right quick release, and try not to fix your fork to the floor so that the front wheel can move under stress.

Can't enter online either. Says "message corrupt" I'd also like to know the times. I remember it's laps per category, so the start times are far apart.

Reading TheHub?

Maybe just a service. Maybe a new freehub body (not whole hub) Wobbly gear cluster sounds like whoever put your cassette on forgot to put the spacer in, or didn't tighten the lock ring. Can you wobble it with your fingers?

Tried it. Stopped because Hutchinson tires kept puncturing too easy. Needs a better sealant, or different tires. Tires are very expensive locally. The ride is good, though.

Kinda long for a name, don't you think? Lucky you've got lots of place to put a loooooong sticker.

paniagua -- bread and water...

I've had two close calls with a driver turning in front of me (oncoming) and one with a driver in the same direction. The oncoming ones were hair-raising. For one I did a front-wheelie on my brakes, and for the other I couldn't stop, but could swerve enough. I saw a car have a close call with a motorbike this morning: the car turned at an intersection, and the bike could have t-boned the car, but luckily avoided the accident. When last did you see a car driver in Joburg allow pedestrians to cross at a green robot when the car wanted to turn into that road? (green for the pedestrians, green for the car) I think legally the pedestrians may cross first. In practice, pedestrians play dodge-the-car, and frequently quickly run across when possible. I think this is the same with bicycles and motorbikes -- at least in Africa. The same attitude just carries across. The car is bigger, has a green light, and just goes. The car expects the pedestrians to stop, so doesn't even look for them. And this extends to anything-smaller-than-car.

If you go hard the wheel will warp enough to touch -- or nearly touch -- the brakes. That's normal. Grondpad doesn't hurt a bike, but the bike gets dirtier and dirt can make noise. Wash it. You get a noise: wash first, then check if everything is tight (pedal, skewer, ...) (tight ... not stripped the moer out of it.) Especially on a new bike or recently serviced bike. Check the skewers and pedals asap as it's a safety issue. Eliminate if possible: swap the wheel with a buddy's wheel. Does the noise travel with the wheel or the bike? Standing or seated? I once had some noise that turned out to be dirt between the rear derailleur hanger and the frame. Removed the hanger, cleaned it, replaced it, and the noise was gone. That wasn't easy to find.

I've broken two bar mounts on road rides. Both times the camera hit the tar (once at over 60 km/h.) Both times the camera was OK, but I lost the file (camera reset without save.) The camera is too heavy for the type of plastic. I've got a K-Edge metal bar mount now. I haven't tried it enough yet to know if it will work. The bar mount should now survive, but the plastic waterproof camera case might crack. If at all possible, mount the camera upside down (hanging rather than standing) which will help prevent the camera swinging out of position. Gravity will swing it back. It's also possible to use a tube or bartape between the handlebar and clamp to act as a vibration damper. This will reduce stress. Anything rougher than a farm road though, and like patches said: the footage will induce sickness. CSA/UCI won't allow helmet mounts (they're scared it'll increase the damage to your skull should you crash), and it wouldn't surprise me to see UCI ban chest straps because it might cover some sponsor logo or something. Mabe they're scared you film Pat doing something he shouldn't be doing.

So can't you just take the seatpost out and shine a flashlight in? Feel inside with your finger and check if it's cracked through? Take the clamp off too. Lots of little nicks could just have been dirt spun up by the back wheel or the trailer.

Bernard Hinault and Greg Lemond won the 1985 and 1986 tours respectively. They were on the same team, La Vie Claire. Hinault promised Lemond support in 1986, provided that Lemond would ride support in 1985. Things didn't turn out quite that way. The reality is that it takes a champion to win the Tour, and a champion's mentality is to win. No champion wants to ride support. If they are happy to ride support, they don't have the mentality to win. Two champions on one team is always a problem. It's good for neither. Froome rode support. I'm not convinced he was happy, but he's always polite. Recently there was Sastre/Schleck in 2008. Before Hinault/Lemond it was Hinault/Fignon, but 1985 and 1986 were dramatic. It just doesn't work. A possible exception is close family, eg. Andy and Frank Shleck. Maybe.

Doesnt work with a Garmin USB1 stick -- just the USB2 stick. The difference is that the USB1 stick first emulates a serial port. In this case USB1 is not USB 1.0. The Garmin Ant+ sticks have "USB" or "USB2" printed in tiny on the stick itself.

Also works with a Garmin USB2 Ant+ stick, if you have a OTG capable phone (Galaxy S2, Galaxy S3, Galaxy Nexus, etc.) and a USB OTG cable. It's the cable Samsung sells for connecting a printer to your tablet. (shop around, cable is $ 0.89 on Amazon, but R 319.00 in Samsung store.) You need the ANT+ radio service app, and the ANT+ USB service app. Connected my Nexus to my Quarq on Saturday.

Most tris: swim in the tri shorts. You're not allowed to strip down. At Ironman, there's a tent. You only need a wetsuit when it's cold (less than 14 degrees?) according to the rules. A good-fitting wetsuit will make the swim faster, though. When it's warm, you're not allowed a wetsuit. You should really get some goggles (possibly tinted for open water), and a brightly visible swim cap. Some races provide a swim cap, some don't. The rules state: not black, blue or green (IIRC), something the lifeguards can see. You need sunscreen.

backsweep is the "ergonomic" bar for MTB, like the ergo drop bar was supposed to replace traditional drop bars on road bars -- and failed. Use whatever makes you comfortable. Backsweep is more likely to work on very wide bars, and 29ers usually have wider bars (technically because the fork manufacturers didn't fix rake to compensate for the trail and head angle changes when they made 29ers) I'll repeat: use whatever makes you comfortable. As to the hands: check that the bars aren't too wide. Too wide bars will cause your wrists to angle oddly inwards, stretching the outside tendons. I'll repeat: use whatever makes you comfortable. Including a road drop-bar.