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RodTi

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Everything posted by RodTi

  1. Hairy, what colour frame do you have?
  2. I've only recently bought the Brooks Maintenance kit from CRC, for R68.00. Comes with a small tub of Proofide (the recommended leather wax), the spanner and a Brooks branded cloth, the latter being rather superfluous - but looks pretty I initially thought that they're being a bit stingy on the size of the Proofide tub, it being about the same as one of those round little Zambuk tins, but after having applied some of it, it's very clear it will go a long way, and should last years... I'd advise anyone buying the saddle, to get hold of the maintenace kit as well. If you're going to buy the saddle through CRC in any event, it's a no-brainer... I used ordinary dubbin for almost a year on the saddle, which was possibly a bit silly. The dubbin is completely different in composition to the Proofide, and I'm quite convinced that it's not ideal. My initial cynicism with Proofide, call me jaded, was that here was just another example of a company trying to get the consumer to purchase additional, unnecessary accessories from them, so as to continue milking the proverbial cow. I now realise that Proofide is not only superior, but the little tub will last 5 times longer than any dubbin, and at R68.00 for the entire kit - they're not exactly going to get rich off of me... My overuse of dubbin - in the beginning, I might have been a bit obessive about the new saddle - saw me applying liberal dosages, on fairly regular occasions... Once every few weeks... Which is not necessarily the end of the world, since it did help soften the saddle up quite quickly, but I probably overdid things by a couple of applications... The possible result, has been a saddle that shaped quite quickly to my particular riding style, and anatomy - and now fits like a glove. With this being said, I found the saddle to be comfortable from Day 1. All my friends, that have hopped on and have done a few km's, have made similar remarks... But each saddle is obviously different, so this remains my experience... See some of the pics below, to demonstrate how it has shaped... The pic above tells a few stories. Firstly, the saddle has been recently Proofide'd - which explains the waxy appearance on the top. The three holes down the middle, have plenty of wax/dubbin residue inside of them, given that more is always applied to the bottom of the saddle, to provide additional waterproofing... This then pushes up into the holes, which then sometimes gets clogged with sand /dust... Next thing - notice how the three holes are no longer in alignment... The top two are "pulling" to the right, which might have something to do with my leg leg being slightly longer than the other?? In the pic below, you'll see what the effect of this is on the "side-skirts"... I'm trying to figure out if this is a good thing - since presumably the saddle has shaped to compensate for me leaning in my stroke? The view from the front more clearly demonstrates the lean to the side... If you look closely, you can make out how the holes are no longer flat-on, and are twisted slightly... At the bottom, whilst acknowledging that the angle of the camera is slightly off, you can still pick up the noticeable difference in length between the "side-flap" on the left, seen from the front, as opposed to the one on the right... This ties in with the earlier pic, and demonstrates how my riding-stroke appears to favour a lean to the right (as seated)... Not sure if this suggests I should consider inserting some spacers in/on my right foot's cleat/shoe? But that's a whole different question, for another day... This is the closest I can get to trying to demonstrates the "sag" in the saddle, as it has molded to my shape requirements... The circled area at the top, on a better resolution version of this pic, demonstrates a "depression" in the saddle [with a similar one closer to the camera, that cannot be seen due to the light] - where my "sit-bones" have gradually made themselves 'known' to the saddle... Custom-designed simplicity! Over the next few years, a small and ever-so-rare turn of the screw will be preformed at the front of the saddle, to re-tighten the saddle, and thus remove the sag, should it become too pronounced - This should effectively result in a "as-new" saddle again... Another view showing the shaping of the holes.... Admittedly, this viewpoint makes the saddle look a lot longer than narrower than what it is! The last pic again shows the difference in dip between the two side-flaps... It also shows the curious what the bottom of the saddle looks like... In front, above the glare, you can make out the rounded metal plate in the nose... The three brass 'pins' in the nose, attach the leather at the front, to this plate... Tightening the screw, moves the plate forward, which "pulls" the attached leather with it, thereby tightening up the entire saddle, and diminishing any sag... And that be it. I'll pop up some last few thoughts a bit later!
  3. Hello all, Thanks for all the contributions to this thread - I reckon it pretty much contains all the info one might need in deciding whether or not to take the plunge... I'm going to pop a mail to Admin, and see whether they don't think it would make more sense to move it to the "Product Reviews" section. Right - as promised, here are some of my thoughts, after about 15 months with my Brooks B17 Champion Special... First, some pics... First things first. The saddle is very wide - 175mm to be exact. I opted for this version, being classified as a "Touring & Trekking" saddle (in the Brooks Catalogue), as opposed to a "Road & MTB" saddle - since I figured at the time, that if I wanted comfort, I shouldn't be too concerned with the width... In retrospect, this might have been a mistake - although I'm not necessarily sure of that. Had I opted for the B17 Narrow, which comes in at 150mm across, it would no doubt have been easier to drop off the back on descents etc. Currently, it's a bit of a mission, and more often than not, I implement my rather bizarre technique of dropping one thigh off and to the side, with a sort of twisting over the back - - which no doubt looks stoopid, and isn't as effective... Would the 15mm difference have made an impact on comfort? Possibly not. But allow me to say that my next saddle for the second bike will definitely be a Brooks, and it will be one of the narrower options. Given that I'm toying with going for a 29" racer, possibly a full-susser, it would make sense to be more focused on being able to 'jump off the back'. Suffice it to say that anyone concerned about how "big" the saddles appear to be - have a good look at the size comparison between the possible plastic/carbon/synthetic perch you are looking at, and the racier/mtb specific saddles in the Brooks catalogue - if you are adamant on width/length issues, and you can find a Brooks saddle to match your requirements - then imo serious consideration should be ginven to the Brooks... I'd like to pop up some thoughts about how my saddle has gone through some changes over the last year - as it has been "ridden-in"... This should give some idea of why many would argue that a leather saddle remains the only "custom-built" saddle on the market!
  4. RodTi

    Head angle

    Thanks guys! Ja, it's not something I'd do, but I was wanting to confirm my thoughts pertaining to the Head Angle issue... The frame, albeit titanium - and so relatively durable - is more than a decade old, and originally had a 50mm on... Methinks that to say a 100mm might be pushing it, would be a bit of an understatement!
  5. Stumbled across these pics, thought I'd pop them up... Sort of gives an idea of what's possible - and I reckon even those who were arguing that a Brooks could never look cool on a thoroughbred racer (albeit a Rigid SS), would agree that this looks pretty sweet... The pics above, are of a Brooks that has been "butchered"... Google "Brooks + butchered", to see some interesting looking projects, in this regard... Applying my (admittedly) limited knowledge of them to the subject at hand, I'm guessing the gentleman in question started off with a B17 Special, and now has a Swallow... Am supremely jealous of the handlebars as well - courtesy of Mr. Jeff Jones... Reckon I'm going to be quite prepared to dig deep for them, to round off my eventual SS project... Having forgotten about my earlier promises to take new pics of my Brooks, and share some thoughts and ride quality - I'll get them up shortly... Been a bit more than a year now, since I put mine on - so reckon I've got a fair idea of what's what! Till later....
  6. RodTi

    Head angle

    Hello all, Would appreciate some thoughts on the following: I'm sitting with a frame that has an old-skool, head-angle geometry of 71.5 degrees - this with a 80mm on the front. I've been told that putting a longer fork on the front, will make things too slack, and throw out the ride... But I'm not so sure? What effective difference in angle would an increase of 20mm in front have? Most "steep/tight" frames are sitting between 70 and 71 degrees - with a "slack" AM/DH frame sitting at 65 - 66 degrees... Surely with mine starting at 71.5, an extra 20mm cannot bring the angle down too drastically below the 70 degree range?
  7. Would any of you actually ride this? I'd be too nervous - it would find place of honour somewhere in the house - but don't think I could bring myself to actually riding it... Would have a small nervous breakdown every time I heard the "ting" of klippie on frame...
  8. Airmavrick - if you don't mind me asking - how heavy/light are you? I simply cannot get my head around running the rear so low... When I'm Fighting Fit - I still tip the scales at 100kg, and there's simply no way I can bring myself to run that low... I'm permanently on 3bar at the back... and when I'm feeling 'reckless' - and drop it down to 2.5bar, I spend half my ride thinking about the rear wheel, convinced that every bump is going to bring a pinchflat...
  9. Holy moses.... Congrats to the both of them. Can you imagine the offspring from the two of them? Should be a shoe-in for WC domination in Road & MTB!
  10. Can't wait - should make for some epic before and after pics! And good on you for sticking to your guns!
  11. AWESOME! Thanks for this!
  12. Uhm... hard to know if you're being serious??
  13. Seriously wicked...
  14. PM HeartCoppi - me'thinks he knows a fair bit about the older classics, and might be able to help...
  15. Good luck!
  16. Words. Fail. Me.
  17. Ja that's it... The one I bought has a funny name though - Majaji?(??) or something... Wife discovered it as we were unpacking the shopping bags when we got home, took a long look at it, then at me - and then slowly started shaking her head when I tried to explain what it was for... Guess there are simply some things best left unexplained to those who do not dabble in the sport of cycling
  18. I always used to use Assos cream - but it's very expensive for that little tub, and not all the LBS's stock it... I also found that due to its cost, I used it rather sparingly... The result was that I didn't go through the tub as quickly, which would be fine, but for the fact that eventually the cream starting becoming clumpy - which saw me once throw away the last third of the tub... At R180(??) a tub, that's rather annoying... Nowadays - I'm as happy as the proverbial pig, since I've found a brilliant replacement, if you can bring yourself to actually admitting using it... Remember reading on the Hub about some Hubbers recommending the stuff farmers use for calves / udder protection ... Was at Dischem browsing, and noticed a yellow tub of the stuff selling for R29.00 - in a bigger tub than my Assos. Figured that for the price, I'd give it a go, and if not happy - well then, no biggie. It's basically a smoother version/less thick version of baby's barrier cream - smells almost like a mix between Fissan paste and Bennet's Barrier cream (for the parent's out there)... It works like a charm, is less sticky than the Assos when applying, and at R30 a pop, I'm not concerned with how much I use... I haven't seen it again at Dischem, but when next I do, I intend stocking up... That being said - I'm in complete agreement about the saddle having to be the right fit, first of all. I'm on a Brooks - which is arguably one of the most comfortable perches you can get - and I've actually managed a few shorter rides with no chamois/padding, without any problems... Regardless, I'm not easily going to fork out money on anything else, I reckon that based on bang-for-your-buck, 'n boer maak 'n plan cream is hard to beat... My 2 cents!
  19. Check out the youtube clip - it will give you an idea of how long the run is. It comes out on the tar road that leads up to the Monument - just across the road as it curves round after the houses end. It doesn't appear to be marked - but once you find it and are on it, it's pretty clear... As for taking it on a hardtail - be careful! Some of the big jumps are misleading, and you only realise how high the drop-off's are when you've already comitted... It's first and foremost a DH track - so whereas there are berms and some nice flowing ST, there are big stuff that are clearly aimed for big air with bikes that have big springs!
  20. Here's the link to my For Sale post: My link
  21. Apologies for disappearing Hubbers! Am "watching" this topic - but received no notifications on my BB Jmaccelari - thanks! I'm trying to sell XT v-brakes, and I just want to be sure that I can pass them over to a fellow Hubber, without there being issues...If ordinary MTB Deore levers were used with them - then presumably one wouldn't need a travel agent?? Think I'll let them go, and simply take them back if there's a problem!
  22. Tech BUMP
  23. Hello all, I pulled a nasty and hi-jacked a similar thread in the TechQ&A today - so in an effort to restore my Hub manners: Can you use MTB v-brakes on a cyclocross bike? I know canti's etc. are the norm - but a quick google seems to suggest that v-brakes can also be used? Anyone have any info, since my knowledge about CX is non-existent. Don't want to fleece a potential buyer! Fanks!
  24. Amen to this - drives me mad!
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