Headshot

In my experience the fatter rims and bigger volume tyres feel more vague. Dont waste your money.

I run 2.4's on 22mm ID rims. They work perfectly. No pinch flats despite being hammered and because the rims are narrow they are built strong and are still light. I also run 2.5s on 29mm ID trims. IMO, based on some empirical experience, wide rims are overrated. Wider means heavier so they make the rims weaker to cancel this out. Coupled to this, you are more likely to end up with damaged rims and a pinch flat because the rim is wider and less protected by the overlapping tyre. I think 25mm rims with up to 2.5 tyres (depending on tread pattern to some extent) is probably the sweet spot, but I haven't been able to put this to the test yet.

Nope, new bike or maybe two.

I ride infrequently on the road and my ride last Saturday reminded me why. Of the 4 man crew I was in I was the only one with a front light - a very bright commuting light on an epilepsy inducing strobe setting. I think one of the other three had a tail light. I saw hardly any headlights on the dozens of other bikes out there on a perfect morning. ( I also realized I was about the only rider not riding two or three abreast but had to break my own rule of always stopping at red lights simply to avoid being dropped by my mates who stopped at two on the whole ride) The agro from motorists towards the cyclists swarming all over the roads was obvious from the hooting and gesticulating to the shouted comments like "single file" and such like. My next road ride will be at a different time on a different day. Saturdays are crazy.

Mine are ISpec II I believe but lack the necessary captive nuts to attach even a Shimano shifter too. I suspect I am going to end up simply adding shifter clamps to the SRAM shifter and dropper lever and cluttering the bars a bit in the process...

Just buy a cheap pair of stretch denims and cut them into shorts. |Ripton = Rip off.

I've just got some second hand XT brakes and instead of using them on the bike I was going to I see an opportunity to rid myself of my hated Guide R's and have some proper brakes on my enduro bike. I see there are options from eg Bike Yoke to mount SRAM shifters and/or a dropper lever onto Shimano with an adapter, or alternatively to get a bracket for the shifter and dropper and mount them separately. Has anyone tried either option or found a locally available adapter to match the shifter pod to the Shimano brake?

That's very light. My On One HT with 160 Pike and a relatively heavy build weights 13.75.

Phone Omnico

Ya thats only like 1.3 percent of an eBike

Yes, the issue is the over R2k price per rim...wtf DT

Have any of you ever tried running partly worn chains on your partly worn cassettes to stretch their lifespan? I started doing this on my 1x10. The cassette is on its second bike and is a cheap Sunrace. I've bent the 42 twice and straightened it and its missing teeth. Still works fine as long as I put a 50% worn chain on it. The issue is sourcing such chains. I have 2 x donor bikes that get fresh chains more regularly.

Anyone tried the Panaracer Romero up front ? The only ones I can find are 60tpi "e-bike worthy" version in 2.6 for R800 odd. Sounds a bit hefty for front wheel use on a normal enduro bike...

Thanks for this. I look at the Assegai and Magic Mary and think those knobs are taller than we need in SA in the main. That said I used to love my MM on my old enduro bike, it was just too much tyre for the HT.

Read again he said he went against your professional advice...

Guys a crook plain and simple.

My mission is to find the front tyre that offers the best combination for SA conditions - i.e the fastest rolling and acceptable grip in the corners. I am relatively happy with the Aggressor up front ( ya I know its generally considered a rear only) but I'm wondering if a Disector might not be better still? Anyone tried one up front?

I had a couple of dhr2's in 26 a few years back - those really worse down quickly to the extent that I managed to do my most amazing no brake rear slide complete with dust for Africa thanks to the almost non existent grip :-) That said, my Aggressors have worn well - the hard center knobs help and the side knobs are fine front and back. My Ardents have worn really well too.

Isn't it shocking that a pair of bike tyres cost more than 2 car tyres, or at least some car tyres.

Maybe you just use too much back brake bru?

Or maybe I just don't "AM" the Ardents properly :-)

https://www.trailforks.com/region/clarens-36415/?activitytype=1&z=12.7&lat=-28.51449&lon=28.39836

Looking fwd to hear how you found it. Where did you get the tyre and how much?

You'd be surprised, I was. I run Ardent 2.4's on my HT. They are not especially fast rolling and for our conditions i.e dry, hardpack and rocks they grip like crazy. The same bike with a Magic Mary up front is total overkill and feels as if you're riding with the brakes on. That said, on an uber slack enduro bike where the front end needs all the help it can get I would not run an Ardent.

I would not worry about the geo on the Spark. My first trail bike - a 2013 Reign had a 67.5 hta and me next one a 66.5. Both were suitably dh capable. IMO bike fit and comfort is not something you arrive at on a brief test ride . There are few bad bikes out there and it takes time and hours in the saddle to find the ideal set up.