Andymann

Oh for sure. I'll keep a lookout for you - can you not still order them though - If you have a young racer looking for a bike let me know - maybe I can help with a few new bits.....

I was always a fan of AC, but recently switched to a set of Ritchey Vantage II Aluminium. Not as featherweight as the ACs but apart from that they are pretty impressive. Best part for me was I bought a set of Maxxis Crossmark, put on the Tubeless Rim tape and valves (included in the price!) and pumped the things up with a hand pump. Easiest tubless conversion I have ever done.

Hey Nick - I'm curious - did you ever manage to "place" my old Bianchi S-Pro frame? I'd love to see how it turned out......

Isn't the difference between Chiense and Chinese about the same as the difference between the Pinarello and the Chinarello? Looks the same, close enough to recognise what it's meant to be, at first glance difficult to spot the difference, but to the trained eye the error is glaring

Second-last I-Flex race so we will be in PE........

Hi All - nothing has been finally confirmed There's a new sponsor on board, TSA has been informed and even a few dates have been proposed. But, as I learnt in my old Iscor days, if it hasn't been written down, it hasn't been said. As soon as I hear that everything has been signed, I'll let the cat out the bag.......

sure PM me your email address and I'll send it off to you - we have tweaked it a bit since then!

PM me and I'll draw you a quick sketch....

oops sorry - typo. Outer race. You need to brace the bolt across the two sides of the outer race, and then tap the bolt from the other side.

Get an M6 bolt and nut (Caps also work) which is just short of the diameter of the bearing outer race. Screw the nut up the shaft of the bolt, brace the bolt head against the inside of the one side of the inner race, and then screw the nut out so that it jams up against the opposite side of the inner race. You should now have a nice tight shaft jammed up against the two opposite sides of the outer race, which you can then hit from the opposite side with a piece of brass. You might have to apply a bit of heat to help things move along.

Nah, but I've been close to the negotiations for quite a while - I train with one of the new event organisers. He confirmed on Sunday that TSA has already been informed of the new series, and that the new sponsor is on-board. So hopefully later this week all will be made public. Here's to holding thumbs.....

There should be an announcement later this week....... Format will have changed to include some off-road events as well which should make for an exciting series.

I would love to Discover who flash is.....

Yup! In about 1991 I think - 1st year varsity, perms were big back then!

I had a perm when I did my first one in Newcastle....

Really. From who

Pretty much - while this is more common on caravan and trailer wheel bearings, there is a possibility that if you wash your bike after your ride and by some chance water enters either the wheel bearings (cup and cone, not sealed - although I have seen water inside sealed bearings) and ends up on the bearing surfaces, surface rust can begin to occur on the bearing surface in as little as a few weeks which will reduce bearing life - something a quick spin of the bearing will help to reduce. We have a very interesting case study of backup new electric motor failures because they were stored without a procedure in place to routinely rotate their shafts. Of course you could argue that if water is in the bearing in the first place the bearing life is compromised anyway, but that's going off the topic.

Nah dude you aren't doing any damage. The only benefit to be gained from hanging a bike by the bars and the seat is that if you aren't going to ride for a few months, you can easily just give the wheels and crank a quick spin, just to keep the bearings lubed.

Still one of the nicest bikes I have ever owned! Sadly the FD mount developed a small crack so I had to retire it. I did donate it to build-a-bike though, so hopefully there was someone who was able to repair the crack and it's making some new owner happy.

Great choice! Now when you have a bit more spare cash, save up for a quality set of hoops, and then see how well an "entry-level" Alu frame performs....

Back in the 90's BMX days we used to regularly bunny-hop over any soul brave enough to lie down. Used to become quite a "betcha you can't jump over me lying down" "betcha I can...."

I ride a Scale 940, my Wife a Scale 910 Carbon. There's about a 1kg "real-world" difference in weight, and honestly, I have no complaints with the 940. Very similar ride quality to the Carbon 910. Wheels on the 940 aren't great - I've actually just upgraded to Ritchey Wheels, but that was really not necessary - I just like lighter wheels! Components on the 940 vs. the 910 are very similar - even the no-name Shimano brakes on the 940 work just as well as the XT's on the 910. it really is a very good bike, and you can pick them up at Hotspot in Pretoria now for R13999 - now that's a good deal.

As soon as I get the thing, I'll post about the software. To be honest, even the rep seemed a little confused! Regarding the power, we've found that the readings on the Cateye's are way out - up to 100W at anything over 200W. The Cyclops hub and the Tacx Flow which we test on now are very close - within a few Watts at the most. The problem with the Flow is you can't download your set for analysis later - hence the need for the i-Vortex. The reality is though, that you can use any power meter really, so long as you are consistently training and testing on the same one - the problem comes in when your program tells you to train at 200 Tacx Watts and you end up training at 200 Cateye Watts or anything from 100 to 400 Polar Watts :-) When we test our athletes if we are doing a Power-based program we make sure that the Power meter they train on is the one they do the test on.

Ok so I eventually got hold of the SA rep for Tacx and I'm going for the I-Vortex. Apparently the major difference is in the software - and for what I need, the later version of the software is better.

Ok - so the deal on the used Cyclops power meter didn't materialize, and after realising that all my power training is done on an indoor trainer anyway, the next step would just be to buy a decent indoor trainer with power readings which I can download. That's the important part - to be able to view the set later for analysis. It's come down to the i-Flow vs. the i-Vortex. Seeing as I was going to pay R6K for a used Cyclops, I don't mind paying for a decent trainer - I basically need something as robust and reliable as my trusty Cateye CS1000, but with values which I can download. Any comments?