Palaeodom

The LBS seem to think that one of the welds hasn't bound the metals correctly and that one of the edges inside the bound tube is creaking against the other...at some point they mentioned rust but who knows...not sure i'm going to fork out R600 to check to welds...my next step is to strip it and see if i can make the frame do it then put it back together checking everything...who knows.

Good idea, i shall try that...unless anyone knows of a particularly attractive female nurse/doc who does home visits and actually has a stethoscope.

No, do you know who the mongoose rep is in SA? or do you reckon just go through the main website?

Thanks for all the advise, It a mongoose Meteore Team, and barely 6 months old. I've checks pretty much everything and i can make it creak just by putting weight on one of the pedals while the bike is tanding still and pushing across the frame, it is a clear creaking sounds as it flexes and then lfexes back when i relieve the pressure. What I would really like to know is do I have to wait for it to visibly crack before I take it back to the shop or do I ride it until it does crack...Its a seriously annoying noise thats for sure as its almost constant when i'm riding, whether fast, slow in or out the saddle.

My newish frame has started making quite a bit of noise during general riding, I've had all the usual suspects checked out at the LBS and they have now suggested that at the head tube or the BB tube there must be a dry weld thats creaking everytime the frame flexes. They suggested it wasn't fixable without breaking the frame down and re-welding it and that I should just ride it until it developes a crack there and then claim on the warranty. What is a dry weld and does it mean the frame is weaker? Can I claim on the warranty for such a thing now before it fails and develops a crack? Thanks all

I just visited and none of the links to websites work.

I've got one, its custom painted and quite nice, I just prefer Alu for mountain bikes. I'll send you a pic. I'm selling it for R2500. Its the same frame as the one in the pic below, i just got it custom painted and it looks awsome. I'll send you a pick when i get get hold of it.

My other other half. Latest addition was the Easton XC70 low-rise handlebars...so so so sweet. She does love to let rip on single track.

Do you also think that MTB may require a slightly different cleat position than road? I am just starting to read about it. It'd be interesting to see where MTBers have their cleats or even if it makes as much of a difference seeing as they're int and out of the saddle and regualrly shifting weight and position on the saddle.

Hi all, Looking for some advice on the best LBS to take my bike for a full service? I have been through a number of LBS and the bike generally comes back with something not quite right and requires a follow up visit. I know that its best to do it yourself and its probably the only way to ensure it gets done to my standards but i don't have the tools yet (building a kit slowly) so I need to trust someone else to do it well. I need the following done: brake bleed, headset and BB service, wheel-bearing service and gear cables, RD and FD service. Is it cheaper just to do these things individually? I'm currently booked in at Linden. Any suggestions?

Fair enough, I shall retract my suggestion....if you're just getting into the sport then get the bike with the best components you can afford. It may sound like overkill but if you do get hooked (and the increasing popularity of the sport suggests you may well do), then you're going to want to change bits and pieces to go faster. If those bits and pieces are good then the upgrade cost won't be quite so scary (and you can spend the cash on a new super frame). I suggested the Meteore because I thought you may want to build up your bike from stuff you can buy here or online, in which case you can buy a great frame really cheaply. If you want a complete bike then consider the tyax, or the Silverbacks which seem to be well put together with decent components without breaking the bank. My final suggestion is make sure you ride a few potential bikes before buying...the differences between them are huge so you'll want to buy something that suits your riding and comfort needs. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your new toy!

Right, Weight weenie just put up a Zaskar Carbon Team frame without headset and it comes in at 1.5kg, 200g more than the meteore with bb and headset included.

IMHO Go for the Mongoose Meteore Team, its light, fast and agile you can throw it around, crash with out worrying about it. I went from carbon to the meteore and I find i have much more confidence in pushing myself technically and its as light as my carbon frame (1.3kg) or a zaskar. Don't be foolled by the bling, if you want to be happy and push yourself without worrying about drop offs, trees and rocks then go lightweight Alu. The ride is harder than carbon but the meteore geometry is a little less aggresive than a straight out racer (like a scott scale) so you'll be able to spend more time in the saddle having fun. The meteore is Mongoose's top end hardtail so its not slow by any means and you'll grow in confidence on it. Plus, there have been loads of frames for sale on here lately, for almost nothing, you should be able to pick up a great frame for under R2k.

Any product description or utube demo video?

It would be pretty rude as this is what most of us would love to do and someone is actually getting of their well padded ass and doing it. It doesn't really matter anyways, its all about the journey. What would be worth a bet is how much the fully kitted bike weighs. You could make it a competion the closest guess gets to carry some of your stuff!

Got the hole in the bottom of the frame so thats a start. Why are the Enduro bearings better?

Whats the difference in spec and weight between the Scott and the Merida?

Will they both fit with my SLX system?

Yep i've had a few nasty falls there when i first started out. There are still some parts that require some special concentration as a fall would mean some serious bed rest. the barbed wire thing is rubbish, it'd be great not to need it but this being SA we certainly do need it. I would suggest getting off the bike and walking up that ramp under the bridge as it is pretty slippery in the wet, i've seen people bail off the top when making the turn coming from the left. Many of the runs there i try and do several times before i feel like i know it well enough to start playing, if you pick a trail you like but tests you just do it over and over and you'll quickly get better as you learn the route and how to do it and then you can apply that to anywhere.

Looking to upgrade my BB, it doesn't seem to keep out the dust and dirt from the trail very well. I have to take it apart and clean it more often than i think i should need to. What do people recommend i upgrade to? There are a bunch of BBs out there but unsure which to seriously look at. I'm happy with the crank set for the moment as its still pretty new and the SLX is pretty sturdy and only 30g heavier than the XT.

Is that because you sell them. I think the same, I have a set and love them, they've put up with a bunch of crap and stayed true, fast an light. I perhaps would watch the weight limit of them if you're a little on the stout side and they are designed to be a light XC set so I'd be hesistant to throw them down >4foot dropoffs.

Isn't everything for the 29er more expensive? seems like a bit of a push that will make the sport even more elitist than it already is. Next you'll be telling me that my machine is obsolete because its made of aluminium and i should pay 10k for my frame and clearly o'm not taking my riding seriously because I have two sub XT components.....oops wait....thats what i get told by every bike magazine. 90% of people i see on the spruit including the newbies are on 26HT's and there's a good reason for that.

I really can't tell the difference between my 26" and 29".....flat screen. I'm stickin with the 26er its more interesting to ride technical stuff.

Do biokineticists actually treat injuries and muscle issues through. I was uner the impression they work with problems to make training possible and to strengthen not necessarily to fix first.

I'm sure this has been discussed previously but i couldn't find a thread on it. Does anyone know a decent physio who is particularly knowledgable about cycling related stuff. I've been to a number of physio's that just haven't been quite experienced enough with cycling to diagnose the problem and relate it to the bike or riding. I'm in JHB north. Is there not someone who combines physio and bike setup so that both bases can be covered?