Minion

It's easy to check: Just make sure you use that sealant (or another neutral-cure sealant). There's enough adhesive on the rubber thing that it will stick back on by itself.

It depends how you train. If you train according to speed, then 10km/h on a heavy bike will be harder than 10km/h on a light bike. If you train according to power, perceived exertion or HR then it doesn't really make a difference. Riding at 250W, 90%HR has the same training effect, regardless of which bike you're doing it on. I personally believe that you should train as close to how you will be racing as you can, so you get really familiar with how your bike behaves and feels. The possible exception might be if you've got a cheaper, heavier bike or wheels for training so you don't risk damaging the expensive lightweight stuff, except in races.

You can still get them for that price direct from Wahoo. They send them via USPS, which can take up to three weeks (if it survives the grubby little paws in SAPO). Amazon.com send it via courier (DHL or UPS) which takes 2-7 days and makes up all of the price difference. Is anyone interested in doing a group buy of these things from Amazon? If we buy four or more, the unit price comes down to about R1000.

There are two little screws on your rear derailleur that control how far in and out it moves. http://sheldonbrown.com/images/derailer_adj.gif Whole article here: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html You can safely remove the plastic disk. It's sole real purpose is to stop stupid Americans from suing the bike company when the poorly adjusted rear derailleur on their bike goes into their spokes.

The old ones had a hole in the plastic case, underneath the rubber 'foot'. Water used to get in there and they'd die after a while. It was really simple to plug the hole with silicone, though and the newer ones I've seen come with the hole already plugged. Once the hole is filled, they'll survived all kinds of washes etc.

Just came across this now. I've also been looking for one of these. Amazon.com will ship them to SA, it's just a bit pricey - R1250 including all duties and DHL/UPS courier from the US.

Even better, find the geometry charts. In my case, most of the bikes with the right top tube have a head tube that is too short, forcing me to use a ridiculous number of steerer spacers.

I might have R500 of stuff.

Now we know why we're all getting discount vouchers . It's as sure as me washing my car and rain.

Anyone in Joburg thinking of placing an order to take advantage of this?

For a saddle it's likely they sent via Royal Mail, so no tracking number. It can take 3-4 weeks, so give it more time.

Eh? Not necessarily. For some clamp/frame combinations the product manuals say that is the right way. It also reduces the amount of road crap that gets into the clamp mechanism. It's a pretty low-spec FSA crank, though.

It could actually. Reduced exposure to sunlight is one of the suggested causes of Seasonal Affective Disorder, a recognised mental disorder, especially in northern countries with long winters. Never mind the fact that IDT workouts themselves are mind-numbingly boring.

This was actually one of the reasons why I bought an Edge 705 in the first place - I could never get my Polar speed sensor to work on the rear wheel. I had a Cycle-Ops Fluid2 trainer, so speed was useful as an indication of power and as a way to compare workouts (before I got a power meter). I also use the distance measurement as a rough way to track the usage of all my equipment.

How strong is your prescription? I was thinking of some prescription Radars, but my optometrist thought that the script for my left eye might make the lenses too thick for the frames. I'm short-sighted and need a -3.25 strength lens for that eye.

It does, however, seem that the approximation is pretty good. The First Beat algorithm (Edge 500, 800 etc) uses age, weight, height and activity level as inputs. It then estimates VO2max based on heart rate variability, amongst other things. This allows it estimate calories to within 7-10% of the values obtained from direct calorimetric measurements. It is also able to adapt itself as you get fitter. It's an approximation, but a pretty good one nonetheless. Their white paper on the algorithm is pretty interesting: https://sites.google...?attredirects=0

These algorithms don't really need to be 100% accurate. So long as they're fairly consistent and not massively inaccurate (e.g. the Edge 705 calculation can be out by 100%) they provide a good indicator for calorie tracking. Although there are many variables, some of the algorithms account for quite a few, such as the New Leaf one that uses and approximation of VO2max. Even without accounting for all of these, the accuracy of the First Beat algorithm given by DCR is about 10%, which I would consider to be pretty good for calorie tracking purposes.

My Edge 705 actually has two different data fields. One is is called 'Cal' and is the calorie number calculated using speed and distance. The other is called 'Power kJ' and is the work value calculated from my power meter.

Have a browse through the Consumer Watch blog on the IOL site. There're quite a few similar stories to yours: http://www.iol.co.za/blogs/wendy-knowler-s-consumer-watch-1.1608

DC Rainmaker did a comprehensive test of the accuracy of various GPSes including the Edge 500: http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2010/11/sport-device-gps-accuracy-in-depth-part.html http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2010/11/sport-device-gps-accuracy-in-depth-part_11.html

You could be pushing too hard when you're sitting and not pacing yourself properly. Maybe try reducing your seated speed a bit so you're going at your standing speed. You may be able to hold it longer then and have something left for an acceleration as you get to the top.

That's what I'd interpreted it as initially, but none of the sources I've found today actually make that distinction. It does seem that most of the sources are making recommendations for athletes who'd typically have lower fat percentages, so the difference between LBM and BM would be less significant anyway. Basing it on LBM, rather than BM would reduce the amount of protein you need to consume, so you should be safe with the recommendations of 2g/kg bodyweight or less.

Reminds me of a couple of varsity design projects I've done

The range of 1.4g/kg to 2g/kg in the JISSN article corresponds with the ranges given in other sources. I read through the full text of the IJSNEM article and it seems their recommendation of a maximum of 2.5g/kg is based more on what they consider to be a maximum safe recommended level of protein intake, rather than what they consider to be an effective level for athletic performance. The latter, again, seems to correspond to the other sources. The general conclusion from the sources seems to be that endurance athletes should be eating between 1.2-1.6g/kg or protein per day, depending on the activity level, while eating more than 2g/kg for any type of activity is just wasting money and eating much more than 2.5g/kg may damage your health (though the evidence for this last number is not comprehensive).

Seems to be missing a shower head, though.