Dirtbreath

Taiwan frames with fancy paint jobs. That's all they are.

For some reason Rapidrise derailleurs are even more so, but once they are set right there run true for ages.

Actually working on the rim gives you more accuracy in the sense that a small ammount of movement at the rim is even smaller at the casette. so it will be easier to do the adjustment at the rim.On the assumption that your rim is true. Even if it's not' date=' you can compensate for it by turning the wheel and the tool together, using the same point on the rim as reference.[/quote']

Ja, ja, mine too. Thing is if you are out on a stage race or something, chances are you have bent your hanger after a wipe. Putting on a new hanger and straightening to match a wheel that has been involved in this altercation with nature might not be such a good idea. I have had an experience of putting on a brand new hanger that was out of line enough to prevent proper gear setup. Fortunately there was a bike stand that had the tool and we eventually got it right. I unfortunately own one of those wheelsets with those dodgy nipples that make truing a true pain in the ass.

Actually working on the rim gives you more accuracy in the sense that a small ammount of movement at the rim is even smaller at the casette. so it will be easier to do the adjustment at the rim. On the assumption that your rim is true.

Any idea why the allignment is done on the rim and not the cassette? Surely this is what you are actually trying to line up and by going to the rim you are just increasing your margin for error. Would also make for a more compact tool.

You have a gas problem!

New hangers are not always 100% straight. Might be a bit pedantic but lining up a new hanger is a good idea for perfect shifting. Still dont think I would buy the tool for 1k though.

Phone shops around you. I am sure you will pick up many sweet deals. Some of the shops are even advertising on The Hub.

That is just the VAT. Import duty is on top of that. I doubt you would save enough on a complete bike to make the risk worthwhile. My 2c worth.

I would advise against buying a complete bike online. A full bike incurs a high import duty plus you dont have the luxury of reliable backup.

For the first 20 minutes yes. But ride a longer ride and your soft bits will be sriously tender. You want to elevate yourself on your sit bones and reduce the weight and pressure of your soft tissue which gets sensitive after a while.

HR almost kills himself on anything with wheels though. Cant fault the bars.

I like the Tank City.

You can also use denture tablets. Havent checked ingredients but will have a look.

Yummy!

This is usually one of those hindsight things. After the tumble you lie there with a mouth full of dust and wish.........if only I had lowered my saddle.

Are these resin pads. They dont tolerate wet riding at all. Get steel sintered and you should be OK.

Never heard of the poor guy but very saddened by this news.

Try Sondor in Sebenza. If they dont have they can point you in the right direction. Other option is to get hold of a local air con installer. They use it for lagging their piping.

If you are asking this question I think it is premature for you to spend bucks on one unless you dont mind changing in the near future. It all depends on what you ride and what you take with you. Bladder, spares, chow, phone, keys, cash, ipod, whatever. Maybe lay whatever you think you will need out and decide on how much space to use. I do not think bigger is better. Take your time. Nothing worse than having a pack that is too small that you have to stuff pockets or too big that you feel like a student backpacking Europe. There are other things to consider such as cleaning, bitevalves, bladder durability etc.

Try "The Real Man" saddle. http://sheldonbrown.com/real-man.html

Don't be embarrassed to ride however you like. Whatever works for you, do it.