The_Break

His original post below: "Some of the new nuts and bolts seems to be rusting on my bike i would like to replace it with something better and if possible in black Where do you buy these bolts and nut kits and what would it cost aprox" Corrosion is his current problem. A proper bolt grease such as a michelin or as you say a copper slip grease can be used to cover the threads and surfaces between alu and SS. I have been using SS nuts and bolts on both carbon and alu parts for years with no problems here in Cape Town. The black bolts shiny or matt always rusted from my sweat alone.

Not obviously the crank. Where you measure the power and the loss through the drivetrain has nothing to do with actual accuracy for your training itself. Both SRM and Powertap are very accurate in terms of consistency and that is what you are looking for. The only thing you will need to consider is what system you did do your baseline testing on in order to determine your power training zones. Try do your baseline testing either on youur unit on a trainer or in a lab with similar setup and powertrain losses (although almost impossible to predict). I am not sure how accurate pedal powermeteres are but if within 2% or so I would go for those as they are by far the easiest to change fromm bike to bike. SRMs are heavy and not as stiff as say a Zipp crank and Powermeters are not that great in terms of changing between race and training wheels. I would seriously look into pedal ones next time I buy. CUrrently have Powertap. Couldnt afford the SRM as it is very expensive in comparison.

Loose weight and up your power. No other way if your form is good and your pedal stroke nice and circular in or out the saddle.

You don't live 150m from the coast do you? 304 will corrode more so than 316 by forming a brown layer on the surface. I understood he wanted his golts and nuts to stay nice and clean no matter what he bought. There is no need to go for HT as stainless is way stronger than Ti and you can replace all of your nuts and bolts with Ti without worries of breaking them at the correct torque setting. So like I suggest, get yourself some 316 hardware and save yourself time looking for the shiny black ones and the need to replace them in a few months.

Anyone have any RLVs in non-scratched condition they are wanting to sell? Or where I can get lowest prices? Regards, The Break

Just make sure you get your alignment sorted out. This will give yo best chance of full recovery. If doc got bone back together and there is no ligament or muscle damage you should be good to go. The big question is, if you fall again, will it recove then. Is it worth it in that case?

Go to a company like Bolt It and just take youur old bolts along. Ask them for same in 316 Stainless steel. 304 will still form a brown layer. 316 should be bombproof. Black bolts are made of mild steel and will rust. Depending on the grade they may even insufficient strength wise as some grades of mild steel are weaker or more brittle than others. Stick with Stainless 316. From bolt it a normal bolt will be about 30c and a nut about 20c. Bike shops will rip you off.

Hello All Argus special on Rudy Project Rydon graphite frames with Impactx Photochromic Polarized grey lenses. Glasses come with a spare set of multilaser orange lenses. Shipping is R50 extra within South Africa and will ship with SAPO to your nearest post office. You will receive a tracking number and glasses will be insured. Normally ship within a week. Pick ups will only be considered in Stellenbosch only. Price is R1999 for glasses and spare lenses. Price is non-negotiable so please do not ask me for a discount. You won't find this for less. PM for orders as there is limited stock. Regards, The Break

I can't afford this racing and all the drugs anymore. Doping and sports doctors are expensive enough as it is. I think the elite riders should be given a 50% discount so they can afford to be in elite groups.

Hold on, before that red card gets pulled out. Last 10 races I did, nearly came down 6 times in that scenario. Last time I was in a bunch, R8453 damage to my bike and the insurance is still evaluating my cracked frame. If needing repair, another R22500. So maybe we can make that a yellow card... Do any of our fees go toward rider education and teaching of good bunch riding skills?

Only thing I find expensive is having to pay insurance excess every time one of the development riders causes a crash in our bunch. Did I just say that?

You by any chance crossing chain, i.e. riding big blade front and big cog rear at times? Could weaken links that then pop under power.

Very few bike shops have properly qualified mechanics. Most of them teach their mechanics on the job. In general I have found nearly all SA LBS to provide poor workmanship in some way or the other. I have never been 100% satisfied with any job. Guess that is why I do all my own servicing and bike building past few years. Teach yourself to do your own bike. Will save you a lot and at least you can double/triplle check everything before you ride. Suggest a torque wrench if you do. Regards, The Break

Hi All Please check my ads for some really good deals on very limited stock of Rudy Project I need to clear. Please contact me if you can find the items for cheaper (include proof please). Otherwise non-negotiable so please don't ask for discount. I also have a spare set of Noyz photochromic clear lenses and Noyz photochromic racing red lenses which I will be posting soon. PM me if you are interested in these in the meantime and make me an offer. All new. Unfortunately I am not able to get other stock at these prices as these were "sponsored" to me. They don't fit my face. Happy shopping!

You can add on 40% duty and then 1.1 x value x 14% for VAT and then your R30-R90 handling fee.

Hi Anyone else experiencing long delays with mail that has been sitting at Cape Mail since beginning of Jan?

Just make sure you buy from a "shop" that offers customer protection and insurance and assumes all responsibility until you get a good product in your hands and make sure they use a postal company or courier that can be tracked online. Even guys like CRC don't always have tracking options with their Royal Airmail option and if the parcel gets stuck somewhere they will sit and ask you to wait for it to arrive or contact your local posting authority. Can take a long time to get it sorted.

Interested to know the following information from everyone; if you ride more than one discipline then just copy paste and fill in: Height: 180cm Discipline: Road Bike type: Road bike Cranklength: 175mm Front blade combination: 53/39 Cassette: 11-25 Height: 180cm Discipline: Timetrial (sometimes road frame when limited to one bike when travelling) Bike type: TT bike Cranklength: 177.5mm Front blade combination: 54/42 Cassette: 11-23

Being hardcore yourself is very different to letting your child try and be hardcore at the expense of his health and his future.

Hi EbenVN Take a coin and tap the frame around the dent and then on the dent. Around the dent it should give you a nice hollow sharp tick tick tick sounds. Now if you tap the dent and it makes a similar tick tick tick sound then no worries it is structurally the same as the rest of the frame in this area. However, if it becomes a dull doof doof sound then the carbon fivres have been damaged or have delaminated. If it is damaged, it does still not mean the end of the world as it all depends on the nature of the damage. My guess is no damage, but if there is write back and let me know.

If I compare every single bit of equipment I have now to the equipment I had on my first bike, for sure, I am definitely a better rider time wise because of it besides the fitness factor. One can feel the difference between well engineered equipment and not so well engineered equipment for sure.

Still going to be interested to see what happens with the young man within the next decade. Interesting to hear what advice his dad got from my contact as well as others and if he followed or ignored it?

Maybe they went pub crawling on their bikes to avoid being pulled over by the cops for drinking and driving.

Sure hope you not training with tubbies. But racing with tubbies vs. clinchers is a no brainer, if you are going to spend so much cash on a set of wheels and you are goiing to worry about getting a flat during a race that is something I could never understand. If you flat out in a race whether you are on a tubby or a clincher then it is in any case race over for you if you are that serious. No way you are going to change a flat and get back onto the pack when they are 2km down the road. Phone a friend in that situation. Other reasons I have heard are tubbies are too expensive, it is like saying I want my BMW M3 but I can't afford the services.

HED stingers are faster than zipps. And why in the world would you want to go for a clincher?????????