ALLMTB

Of course you can, but it would not be a good idea, the 29er frame was not designed to take smaller wheels, which means that your BB height will be too low.

Andrew Neethling.

Here is a good explanation: "What is Full-Floating?Full floating rotors, such as were originally conceived, were designed to reduce the tendency towards thermal stress induced distortion due to uneven thermal expansion under load..." "...True full-floaters move on the carriers, this allows them to self-center in the caliper for reduced brake drag and "float" unimpeded for unrestricted expansion and contraction during repeated thermal cycling. The only serious down side is a bit of rattle that reminds you these are indeed full-floaters." Source: http://www.braketech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:what-is-full-floating&catid=17:tech-talk&Itemid=69 Rotors such as Shimano XT, XTR and Avid HSX are not true floating rotors because the disc does not move on the spyder/carrier.

Have a look at the cleat position, make sure it is the same as the other foot that clips out easily. Also, make sure the cleats are tight.

Can the 'force' which the clutch applies to the RD be adjusted? I might be wrong but I think its possible with a XTR RD. Maybe its the same with an XT and the force is set too high...

The frame looks almost exactly the same as the Scott Spark range, especially the rear triangle, the rocker link and the seat tube...just saying.

I was thinking of getting Onza for my next set of tyres...do you run them tubeless?

That's why somehting made of steel needs to be attached to the nipple, like I said previously.

I might be wrong but I think its something like this: Remove spoke from nipple. Get something small made of steel to attach to the nipple. Push the nipple into the rim. Use a strong magnate to draw the nipple along the rim to the valve hole. Ta da! (Or somehting along those lines)

A mate of mine ordered a brake set from CRC last year, he got it in a box which included the brakes, rotors and bolts (no adapters). In SA it seems that its the norm that rotors are sold separately.

Perhaps something to do with the corrosion between alu and ti...?

Check out the Specialized Vice.

Thanx all for the advice. @Zatek, thanx for the offer, I will you know if I don't come right. I have some synthetic motor oil 10W at home, would that be ok?

Hello hubbers I need to service the freehub on my GF's Mavic Crossmax SLR wheel (I think its 2010 or earlier based on the red hubs). I have downloaded the tech docs and it seems pretty simple. The question I have is based on this note in the doc which applies to the freehub body seal: "The new seal has been designed to minimize the friction caused by its direct contact with the free wheel body: • A more supple material • New Teflon surface treatment. Frictional torque is thus halved. Hence, excessive lubrication of the seal serves no purpose: a drop of Mavic mineral oil M40122 suffices. Use only Mavic mineral oil M40122. The use of grease or any other oil will irreparably damage the components of the free wheel system and voids the Mavic warranty." Do I really need to use Mavic mineral oil? Does it need to be mineral oil? (I have seen rubber seals and o-rings expand, rendering them useless when they came in contract with other greases and oils) What is a good substitute for expensive mineral oil? Thanx ALLMTB

Less surface area touching the inside of the cable housing?

or fancy cable housing?

Teflon coated gear cables?

Give Mikes Bikes a call, I believe saw an ENVE bar in one of their showcases there a couple of weeks ago.

They are a make: http://www.rushsportscycling.com/Store/ByCategory/Bearings.aspx

Yip, I meant I would not ride like that. I am not sure if it can be fixed, I doubt it. Safest bet would be to get a new disc.

Ooooh ok the pic clarifies the setup. Its a normal center lock disc (no adapter). So, if the movement is on the pins that hold the steel disc to the alu centre then its not normal. I would not ride like that.

Is the disc attached to the hub with bolts? You mention 6 pins, so I am guessing its a 6 bolt disc attched to a center lock hub with an adapter, if that is the case, then slight movement is normal.

Not sure if swapping the wheels is great idea. Firstly, don't compare the geo of the Spark and the Genius, they are aimed at different types of riding, the Spark being the XC/Marathon more racy type of bike and the Genius being the Trail/AM/Enduro(ish) type of bike. Swapping to smaller wheels wont change the goe of your bike, It will only lower the BB height to a height that the bike was not designed for (think more rock strikes etc.) If you want quicker cornering, set the "flip" chip to the high position, that will make the head angle steeper and raise the BB (this could make cornering a but more unstable too).

Photo caption: Riders from GSTAAD Scott and SC Intense are running custom Fox 40 forks made for 27.5-inch wheels at Andorra. The lowers feature different castings and dropouts adjusted for the "trail" of the wheel, to make the bike feel like a 26-inch DH bike. http://www.vitalmtb.com/photos/features/PIT-BITS-2013-Andorra-World-Cup,5645/Custom-Fox-40-RC2-for-650b-27-5-inch-Wheels,59853/sspomer,2

I believe the axle comes with the fork and not with the hub. Also look at: https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/128365-fox-axles/ Lots of info there.