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Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

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Everything posted by Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

  1. maintenance now, and changes have been made already afaik. Apparently it's a lot smoother and faster. Haven't been up there in about a month, so dunno.
  2. Context, man. Without it, it's just text. On the face of it, without having seen the interview and with popits neglecting to mention "Cal said jokingly" or some such other framing, it comes off as foppish and insulting. No high horses, just a lack of context and explanation from the poster.
  3. You're right... But damn, they're ugly. Neff can probably pull them off, but that doesn't mean they should be worn...
  4. If you do 2 sessions of more than 2 hours @ 70% plus per week, then yes. If not, then you need to do 3 sessions on both anyway, so there's no difference.
  5. Yeah, I know. But, like the championship, it resets each year.
  6. Exactly. Plus, isn't he like racing for the title of most crashes in a career?
  7. Also - baggy pants? You're seriously calling someone that because they choose not to ride in lycra...
  8. 60mm is not a short stem. Plus, the way the old CTD's just wallowed in their mid-stroke was just pitiful, and it certainly does affect climbing.
  9. Just FYI - that's how a bike's climbing ability is determined - in the shock's open position. Of course it would help if the shock had any decent mid-stroke support (which the CTD didn't) and it would have been better with a monarch / float x / ctd rammed full of tokens, but yeah. You want to determine / rate a bike's climbing capabilities? Leave it in the open position and hope the shock has some sort of mid-stroke support.
  10. Isn't this the one with the 135mm rear hubs, which HOPE's own engineers said were all that were necessary after a few tweaks, like wider flanges and less dishing to one side? EDIT: Sorry - 17x130mm spacing. Standards Shmandards The thought of yet another brake mounting "standard" or proposed hub spacing change is bound to send a lot of us into angry spasms, and rightfully so, but Hope has done exactly that with their HB.211. They are not intending to force any industry-wide changes, however, and the bike may or may not even reach production. All Hope wanted to do was to see what they could come up with if they built a frame the best way they saw fit while taking advantage of their brake, hub, crank and bottom bracket manufacturing abilities. ''The bike uses very few current standards since it has been developed as a design concept rather than a product design exercise,'' Hope explained about the bike's ethos. ''Maybe not the best solution for compatibility, but when you make every part, it gives you the opportunity to manufacture a bike without compromise.'' To Hope, a bike without compromise features a zero-dish, 17 x 130mm rear hub spacing, a radial mount rear brake setup, a 30mm crank and bottom bracket interface, and a proprietary chain guide mounting pattern. 17 x 130mm Hub Spacing - A wheel with zero dish and equal spoke tension on either side should be stronger than what's currently the norm, so that's what Hope did. The CNC'd aluminum chain and seatstays are asymmetrical to provide the required clearance, and the 130mm wide rear hub sees the rotor and disc-side spoke flange moved closer together. Why 130mm and not 142, 148, or some other random number? Hope says that the slim rear end is less likely to catch on things that don't move, like rocks and trees, which should help to keep your derailleur safer, and 130mm is the space required for everything to fit in nicely. http://www.pinkbike.com/news/hope-hb211-enduro-bike-sea-otter-2016.html
  11. no. Just swap them over. Remove the front from the bars, remove the rear from the bars, switch. BAM. I'm right dominant but my right hand is more used to rear braking. Fine motor control ain't got nothing to do with it - it's whichever hand you're USED to using.
  12. AWESOME, Alan. Really glad you've got your bike! A note on the brakes. You can swap them around. Avids are good like that in that they are not side-specific like the Shimanos. If you're happier with Front/left and Right/Rear, then CHANGE IT TO THAT. I found out the hard way that it's not as easy to change as you think it is, even if you're ambidextrous (which I am)
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